bexley

I read suggestions of this and that manufacturer planning on doing a 110mm hub, or something can be spaced down to 110mm, so I want to know if my options are as limited as they seem now. Basically, I'm too cheap for the standard options.

I'm also interested in hubs (like Phil's) that can space down to 110mm, or within a few mm. I would coldset for a couple mm, but I'm kind of illogically afraid of doing a full cm on a vintage frame. It's fillet brazed too; does that change anything for better or worse?

Budget is key and Novatec is the only thing I've found that doesn't break into Suzue, Dura-Ace or Phil's territory. How are the Novatec's, anyway?

baxtefer

just spread the frame.

bexley

Yea, this thread is basically my last ditch effort to find a reason not to.

Iser@n

You could go for the iso-cog option, space-up a xt-hub to 110. If you polish the hub (doin it right now) it looks classic at first glance. It's also cheap and durable. But it has to be your thing. Check londonfixiebike.com to see what is mean!

bexley

That's what I'm talkin about. I like this solution for the ease of changing cogs, too--but do the cogs seem good?

Shimano front disc hubs are cheeaap in price. There's got to be a serious downside, no? It's kind of unclear w/regards to 110mm spacing, but I get the drift that the wheel will probably need to be dished if I want 42mm chainline. Hrm.

Did you get a quote from them on the pre-polished one? My last time stripping and polishing anodized aluminum wasn't fun.

nateintokyo

I have a DA wheelset that I recently switched the axles to 100/110 to fit my old (1982) frame. It as about $70 for the set so not too cheap.

Easy to do. The axle kits were at Tokyu Hands (a large national chain) and were from Shimano. The change over was fairly straightforward and it has been nice riding the lovely DA hubs on another bike!

Dia Compe also makes their GranCompe hubs in 110 spacing in silver and black. Someone remind me--the shafts are filed/cut to 8mm/9mm?

Iser@n

Just mail the owner (max), he'll let you know. Won't be very cheap though. British labour...
I didn't ask the price because i'm doing it myself. It's rainy this time of year, so got a lot of time in the evening. You'll have to dish it. I'm running my front chainring on the outside of a double shimano 600 cranck and it's almost perfect. With a 42mm it won't be. But that's just a guess. I'm not into chainlines. I just spoke the wheel and dish it to fit.

Soil_Sampler

John @ https://www.businesscycles.com/compspec.htm told me these can be spaced down to 112mm.

SUZUE PRO-MAX SB REAR TRACK HUBS - 32° large flange rear track hubs with "fixed/free" sprocket threading. Sealed bearings. - $74.50 each.

fixedup

Cant you get phil's in 110? and dura ace, maybe campy?

jdms mvp

i have 110mm spaced sansins and 110mm spaced DAs. novatecs will work. i put them in the same class as formulas.

so i assume u have a japanese njs frame?

u can also respace a loose ball hub with the DA slotted axle kit.

the 110mm spaced hubs i know of are DA, sansin, suntour, campy, phils, older bia stuff, novatec

bexley

Thanks, jdms and fixedup and iser@n

Any idea how much the DA kit goes for?

I've got a few options now and I'm still considering that bolt-on XT hub--not necessarily because it's the cheapest, but I also enjoy circumventing needlessly expensive products.

jdms mvp

i bought one from japan for like 30$ or something shipped and considering that yellowjery wants like 18+ shipping for just the axle i thought it was worth* it.

came with axle, nuts, cones...essentially everything you need to swap a 120mm spaced DA hub to 110mm.

the most important part would be the cones... u could* always file the dropout to accomadate the 10mm axle if u didn't have the 8mm slotted axle.

parkerlewis

Damn! You really got the kit for $30? I know that wholesale is more than that.....
I am talking about a front and rear kit, with both axles, washers for both, and cone nuts for the rear, and lock nuts for the rear. That is the complete set to change DA front and rear from 120/10 100/9 to 110/8 100/8....
I sell them for $50.

For what it is worth, any NJS/BIA hub ever made came in a 110 variety....then you have the phil/compe/nova etc....

jdms mvp

i think it was like 36$ shipped actually. it wasn't more than 40$

bexley

I can feel my idea of doing a budget build slipping away...

...not the first to have this happen, I'm sure. Still, there's no way I'm spending $300 on NJS hubs and $150 on an NJS seatpost. But am I cheap enough to go for that XT hub option?

I can live with moderate dishing, I guess. I'm surprised I haven't heard any opinions against those XT hubs--maybe they are indeed a great compromise.

Aeroplane

XT hubs are pretty much bombproof. Any solution that uses a front hub as a rear hub is bound to need some fiddling though, so if you're prepared for that, go ahead.

Iser@n

+1! In retrospect I could have bought a track hub in the States, especially knowing a euro will go for 2 dollars soon. But my bike is there to be ridden. It gets abused a lot. So why not choose for the same way motorbike-cogs are fitted? If it holds up on a Harley it will hold up on my bike. Never a stripped hub or slipping cog!

But I'll eventually buy a nice set of Mack's or Phill's though, for the looks.

Iser@n

Just finished the polishing. Took me 10 minutes using a drill and a polish-thingy! If i had to do it all again it would take me under an hour.

Too bad i ****ed up the flange on the non-drive side when I used a dremel to get the paint off. Caustic soda worked much better.

The photo's aren't great, phonecamera and bad weather.

westokyo

Yes Nate the shafts for the front are filed down and for the rear (last I checked my friends bike) the shaft itself is still "long" so threads stick out after tightening the wheel down.

OP: Novatechs aren't bad. They are basically the same quality as Formula. Just swap out with some better bearings.

dooktruck

i spaced suzue pro max hubs to 110
then filed the axle down to fit the frame
eventually i found some sunshine 110 hubs and used those
then my frame broke
now i respaced the sunshine hubs and changed the axle for
when i get my new frame that will be 120 with normal dropouts

bexley

Iser@n, looking good!

Thanks all. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and find a set of older NJS hubs (inspired by the reactions in my other "tell me how much to spend on this build" thread). I've seen old NJS hubs ridiculously inflated at round $400, but also some around $200, so I could do that. That may be nearly double the Novatecs, but $80 more for the right hubs in the scheme of things isn't much (a difference of two Kashimax TT protectors. Hah!).

I realized that getting a temporary solution makes little sense if I'm going to replace it with a nice, matching set as soon as I can (it would be 6 months, tops).

Yea, a scenario like that would be nice to avoid. What frame and how did you break it?

So, what do you guys say to the price of $142 on this old Dura Ace hub (the one on the right; the left is a BIA hub at 120mm)? It's not great to be missing the nuts, but that's not a deal killer--not that this is a deal in the cheap sense. Whatever I would end up on the front won't match exactly, but the premium on a matching set of old NJS hubs is crazy; the front and rear alone tends to be much cheaper and more common than a set.

dooktruck

the hubs had nothing to do with the frame breaking
also i paid 150 for my sunshine hubs as a set on ebay

dooktruck

if you find some old 110 hubs it's easy to swap axles and respace them
if you need 120 and normal axles in the future
i just got an axle from the lbs for free

bexley

150 for a set, eh? Good find.

I didn't imply that. The scenario I want to avoid is playing musical chairs with hubs and axles instead of getting exactly what I need.

But anyway, that was a nice frame. Sorry you lost it. What's your diagnosis of the break? Rust on the inside of the tubing was a factor?

dooktruck

yeah i reread your post after i replied and figured you weren't implying that
but
i already had the pro max hubs before i got the 110 frame
then filing the axle was a fix until i found the 110 hubs
you should be able to use the 110 hubs for either application
110 or 120

the frame no rust at all thats just dirt in the pic
i figure the tubing was for someone a lot lighter than me
it didn't have a sticker so i don't know what the tubing was
i weigh 195 and sometimes have 30 pounds of stuff in my bag
and i ride pretty hard...no freestyling just mashing skids/skips
i guess thems the breaks