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  1. #1
    one good leg jinws's Avatar
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    Shopping list help, am I missing anything?

    Ok, first of all, I wanna say thanks to the 10+ fixed riders I met this week for showing me around and answering stupid questions I had. I know some of you post here on BF. I've always wanted to try fixed, to help improve my spinning, speed(cadence) and balance.

    So, here's what I need.
    I ordered a white Kilo TT frame.
    Will be ordering Weinmann DP18 Fixed wheelset (white machined rims, black hubs/spokes)
    track cog and lockring. Should I get 3/32 or 1/8? and what special tool would I need for the lockring?

    I still haven't decided on stem and handle bar combo. I have flatwing bars on all my road bikes. Can't seem to find a 26.0 handle bar that has a flat top, even if I did, I don't think there are quill stems that can take it. Any suggestions? I was thinking about threaded adapter and run a threadless stem with some kind of bullhorn with a flat top.

    Brakes, I WILL NEED BRAKES. what do people usually use? Cross lever? regualr road brakes?

    And lastly, I do want this bike to look good. Any "style" suggestion will also be appreciated. So far, everything planned is black and white. I wonder how black/white/silver(crank and stem) would look. I think I did a pretty sweet job with my new road bike(black/red). I'd post it here, but definitely wrong forum.

    edit: cranks, I'm missing cranks. 48T? 170mm arms, and whatever BB it needs?

  2. #2
    stay free. frankstoneline's Avatar
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    Kilo is quill, as you know, I would go for either some decent drops or horns and a nice nitto jaguar for the style. For style, I think it's tough to beat some nice nitto horns with a nitto stem. You'll need a lockring spanner for the lockring, you can probably find one that has a chainwhip on the back side of it, both of which are terribly nice to have (if you dont already have a chainwhip). Most people run BMX levers and then a normal road caliper. For cranks, most people prefer 165mm arms for the pedal clearance. Sugino 75's seem to be stylish, and are solid cranks, though I ride RD's and like them a lot for the price.
    xoxo David
    Quote Originally Posted by metaljim View Post
    katana's out frank! always be ready.
    <edited>

  3. #3
    Jewish Media Conspirator asherlighn's Avatar
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    bandana for tt is crucial. Make sure it matches your grips and straps.
    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    The fact is that most peoples sense of what rides well is easily overcome by their sense of what looks cool.

  4. #4
    partly metal, partly real sp00ki's Avatar
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    you just made my head hurt...

    ok, i'll try:

    3/32 or 1/8?
    depends. track specific stuff tends to be 1/8, but there's a lot of stuff out there in 3/32 as well. The typical rationale is that 1/8 is more durable, but 3/32 is lighter. doesn't matter which you use in the long run as long as you remain consistent. ie, if you go 1/8 your cog should be 1/8, as should your chainring and your chain.

    if you're looking for a "flat top" type bar, just go with risers or flat bars (these will be mtb, typically).
    Your best bet is to look for a 25.4mm quil (threaded) stem and pair it with a pair of 25.4 risers (type 25.4 mtb riser into google and you'll see why). if you need the drops, that's easy too-- again, type 25.4 road bars into google and you'll find tons. Bullhorns are the same thing. you have lots of options here. stick with 25.4 to keep things simple.

    brake levers
    depends on the bar style, of course. since you want to spend time on the flat, cross or bmx levers are probably your best bet. i like the tektro style cross levers, as they're light and simple. low profile and reliable, nice and strong. they also come in lots of sizes, so make sure they work with the bars you buy.
    if you're used to hoods and wanna go with drops, that's an option too. you already know how that works, though... tektro also makes affordable road levers, but there are zillions of others.

    Cranks
    this depends on how tall you are, but most people opt for 165 when riding fixed in the street. in fact, "track" completes all come with 165mm cranks (the idea is that there's less risk of pedal strike when leaning into turns as you're forced to pedal).

    style is something you're going to have to learn yourself. some people like (for whatever reason) brooks saddles dispite their being tacky, heavy, outdated monstrosities. others demand track specific parts, some people hate the look of carbon, some think aerospokes are cheezy, etc. etc. etc.
    there's lots of ways to find what you like.
    if you're concerned with asthetics and want to find inspiration, check out fixedgeargallery.com.
    there's lots in there, going back for years, so you'll be able to figure out what looks good to you and what doesn't. there'll also likely be a lot of functionality type stuff you haven't considered before, so keep that in mind too.

    here's a quick list of what you need:

    frame/fork (you have this)
    quill stem
    headset (must be 1" threaded)
    handlebars
    brake lever
    brake (and cable, of course)
    wheelset, tubes, tires (if you live in a city, go with something durable like gatorskins or hardcases)
    bottom bracket
    cranks
    pedals w/ retention system
    chainring
    chain
    cog/lockring
    seatpost
    seatpost clamp
    saddle
    Last edited by sp00ki; 04-17-08 at 10:51 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by bonechilling View Post
    Road [racing] is one of the only sports where adult men can compete in a non-scholastic setting, so inevitably 8/10 racers are fiercely-competitive nobodies. It's fun as hell, but it's also the foremost refuge of defeated and aging jocks, turned middle-management types.

  5. #5
    Banned.
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    oh god. why? why must we do this again?

  6. #6
    one good leg jinws's Avatar
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    Spooki,

    sorry about the headache, and thanks for the write up. I already have gatorskins and tire liner ready to go.

    I think you misunderstood what I meant by flat top bars. Not flat top as in bmx bars, I mean wing type, where the bar where you rest your hands are actually flat. Like the FSA wing, or EC70 wing. My wrist likes them for some reason. And about the bull horns, I do a lot of climbing(San Francisco) out of the saddle. I've tried, and I can't climb to save my live if I had a flat bar(BMX type) or using the drops. My hands are always on the hoods of my shifters. I see everyone riding around on those really short riser bars and I honestly don't know how they ride out of the saddle. I thoguht bull horns would be a compromise.

    but again, thanks to those that helped.

    and as far as style, I just want to make sure you guys don't laugh(too hard) at me when i show up for a ride. My road bike is a head-turner, but who knows what the GF/SS community views as style, I've been looking around. It'll be a compromise of what I like and what I think is needed to at least some what fit in.

  7. #7
    partly metal, partly real sp00ki's Avatar
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    i ride bullhorns as well (nitto rb-018). they're actually great for climbing. they come in 26.0, which i use with the cinelli grammo ti quill stem. you might want to check out nitto's line of bullhorns. i don't quite understand what you mean by the wing, but the rb-018 has a flat position as well as the horns for the climbs and sprints.
    Quote Originally Posted by bonechilling View Post
    Road [racing] is one of the only sports where adult men can compete in a non-scholastic setting, so inevitably 8/10 racers are fiercely-competitive nobodies. It's fun as hell, but it's also the foremost refuge of defeated and aging jocks, turned middle-management types.

  8. #8
    one good leg jinws's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sp00ki View Post
    i ride bullhorns as well (nitto rb-018). they're actually great for climbing. they come in 26.0, which i use with the cinelli grammo ti quill stem. you might want to check out nitto's line of bullhorns. i don't quite understand what you mean by the wing, but the rb-018 has a flat position as well as the horns for the climbs and sprints.
    that Nitto bar looks really good.



    here's what I mean by wing type bar.

  9. #9
    jack of one or two trades Aeroplane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sp00ki View Post
    3/32 or 1/8?
    depends. track specific stuff tends to be 1/8, but there's a lot of stuff out there in 3/32 as well. The typical rationale is that 1/8 is more durable, but 3/32 is lighter. doesn't matter which you use in the long run as long as you remain consistent. ie, if you go 1/8 your cog should be 1/8, as should your chainring and your chain.

    if you're looking for a "flat top" type bar, just go with risers or flat bars (these will be mtb, typically).
    Your best bet is to look for a 25.4mm quil (threaded) stem and pair it with a pair of 25.4 risers (type 25.4 mtb riser into google and you'll see why). if you need the drops, that's easy too-- again, type 25.4 road bars into google and you'll find tons. Bullhorns are the same thing. you have lots of options here. stick with 25.4 to keep things simple.
    chains/drivetrain: There's no real difference between 1/8th and 3/32 stuff, except that you can use 1/8th" chain on a 3/32 cog/chainring, but not the other way around. Weight has nothing to do with it.

    Unless your riser/flat bars are oversized, they are probably 25.4mm. Most modern road drops are 26.0, as are most bullhorns (except the somas). Most track drops are 25.4mm. Unless they are oversized. Bottom line: pick your bars, then get a stem that fits.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Irwin Goldstein
    Men should never ride bicycles. Riding should be banned and outlawed. It is
    the most irrational form of exercise I could ever bring to discussion.

  10. #10
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    me an op are like friends or something


    as far as aesthetic inspiration goes, in addition to fgg you can look here

    http://www.pedalmafia.com/bikecheck.html

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