my new paint job
So i decided that i would paint my bike today cause it was a nice day out. Although everything didnt go as planned i still think it turned out ok. I wanted the fork to be red but the paint didnt dry very well, what can you do.
Old http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/phot...05705_4737.jpg new http://www.easyscreens.info/index.php?v=3300&fullsize=1 |
Do you pedal hit much on that bike?
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my pedals have hit three time in the 2 months i have been riding
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I liked it much better before. Now it's just another characterless, black fixed gear conversion.
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I think it looks nice. Cheers on the pedal hits, my ****ing bike just sucks ass apparently. ****ing stupid swobo.
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Originally Posted by bonechilling
(Post 6538097)
I liked it much better before. Now it's just another characterless, black fixed gear conversion.
I really like the way the Head tube was black..... It seams like your time would have been better spent re-wrapping those bars and hiding that brake cable... |
Originally Posted by bonechilling
(Post 6538097)
I liked it much better before. Now it's just another characterless, black fixed gear conversion.
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What the hell did you do to that carpet? My girlfriend would kick my ass.
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omg dude!! my brother has that EXACT bike!! and we painted it flat black too LOL. that's crazy!
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you painted the whole ****ing thing black? Jesus christ kid.
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p.s. you're a ****ing idiot
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I like it. Looks like a fun ride.
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Originally Posted by Pfutz
(Post 6538348)
p.s. you're a ****ing idiot
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I love that he painted the stem and headset while it was on the frame....... and then upgraded it all with a soma seat, as though it didn't look ghetto enough.
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Stop the madness.
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I see black valve stems and red spokes. you spraypainted the wheels and spokes, didnt you?
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I'm usually not one to make negative comments on others paint work,....
but I can't believe you painted over that frickin BAD @$$ champagne centurion, with the two tone head tube, for a flat black BBQ job? did you even sand it down, or prime it? the point is if you want to screw up a perfectly good looking paint job for a weber BBQ job thats your bike and your business, but I wouldn't POST a job like that. anyway I'm glad you like it and ride it, but maybe think about re-painting the bike after reading THIS: (re-posted from a month ago) if you MUST use a rattlecan, there are some things to keep in mind, and some new technologies you should be aware of. first off, they put all kinds of paint in spray cans, so why not spend an extra few dollars and get GOOD spray paint, eh? you wont find ANY "good" spray paints at hardware stores, or discount auto supply stores (auto zone, kragen etc,..) or at wal-mart or target. go to an autobody supply house (called "color shops") they are listed in the yellow pages. GOOD spray paint can be found at these locations, and it'll be a shocking $7 to $20 a can for the good stuff. a) get SEALER: this will be an acid etch primer, with U-POL's primer being the easiest to use (no sanding needed before topcoating) b)get 2 part GLAZING PUTTY to fill tiny pits, or nicks, or grinder marks (metalglaze by evercoat works the best) c)get HIGH BUILD PRIMER, thats to fill sanding scratches from grinding, or sanding filler. d) get the color coat*: you can use a gloss color coat, but for best durability topcoat it with one of the clearcoats listed below. (*most color shops can put automotive basecoats in spray cans now, and because urethane basecoats aren't catalyzed, they work beautifully in a spray can.) when it comes to clearcoats you have TWO quality choices, one is reasonable, the other is just ridiculous in price, but you get some of the best clearcoat on the planet in a special one use mixable spray can. 1) U-POL MOISTURE ACTIVATED SPRAY CLEAR: http://www.levineautoparts.com/upclear1uvre.html the stuff is simply amazing for a rattlecan clearcoat, it'll take overnight to cure enough to be usable, and after 2 weeks you can sand and buff it like a catalyzed urethane clear! very tough and durable. CAUTION: both of these clearcoats use some pretty heavy duty solvents in their makeup, and unless you are topcoating a standard basecoat, you should shoot a test panel to test for compatability with whatever basecoat you might be using. 2) R&M 2 COMPONENT URETHANE CLEARCOAT http://www.ketone.com/rm_aeromax_urethane_clearcoat.php this is a genuine 2 part urethane clearcoat in a special can that once activated will harden in a couple of hours, and can be sanded and polished the next day. at $36 a can it's NOT cheap, but if you compare it to renting a compressor, paint gun and all the crap that goes with it. (or BUYING it all), then it's actually a very reasonably priced clearcoat, and easy as falling off the sofa on sunday afternoon to use. GREAT PRODUCT! things to remember: most of the "nibs" (crap that lands in the paint and creates a tiny bump) come from YOU, not the surrounding area, as most people believe, so wear a PAINT SUIT, it's not so much to protect you from the paint (which it does), but it contains all your hair, skin cells, dandruff, sanding dust, yada yada, and keeps it OFF the paint job you can paint outside in the driveway, with the ground wetted down, and then move the parts inside a closed up room (garage, tool shed, basement etc,..) and leave undisturbed for 12 hours. do it at mid morning, or noon when the bugs are fewest, and before afternoon winds stir up dust. this works GREAT on a hot day where the pieces sit in a hot garage for 12 hours, when you pull that out, it's always a nice suprise to see how good they look! try it, you'll see! PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE painting has a HYOOOGE learning curve, and it always amazes me that people with no idea of how to paint something NEVER practice on a steel plate, or the garage fridge, or a toolbox, they ALWAYS seem to try and "learn" on the thing they are trying to paint, like their vintage colnago, or RB-1 or something. please don't do that, because I haven't written a "how to fix yer fuxored painting attempt" yet, and would rather not have to :D you can use cheap paints and clearcoats to practice with, because all the better quality stuff is easier to use, covers better, builds thicker etc,..., so once you "learn" on the cheapo, when switching to the better paint to shoot your bike, you shouldn't have any trouble shoot em if ya got em |
oh man... did you paint the tires too?
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On second thought, is this a joke?
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haha check the red spoked in the rear
edit way too late |
Originally Posted by def
(Post 6538513)
oh man... did you paint the tires too?
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wait wait, he didnt even take apart the bike to paint it? I thought you guys were being a little harsh at first but holy balls. That means he spray painted the chain, track nuts, cranks, tires, everything!
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Someone post this on the C&V forum and watch them all cry.
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Who is this?
EDIT: My Bad... |
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