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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 04-20-08, 08:13 PM   #1
chore4n
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Question about cogs/chains.

Probably asked before (for fixed):
If I change my 48/16 setup to a 48/19 setup will I need a new chain?
Tired of lame track setup cause I have hills, and I'd like to ride up them.
Anyone feel a difference when they switch out their cog for a lower gear?
And it is true that unless you race track, you really don't NEED an even numbered cog? (14, 16, 18)
Thanks for understanding my n00bey-ness.
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Old 04-20-08, 08:19 PM   #2
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nah you wont need a new chain, but just make sure your seatpost is compatible with your new cog.
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Old 04-20-08, 08:22 PM   #3
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I would assume you need a new chain because you current one might not be long enough. And about the gearing, you will notice a huge difference.

I have no idea what you mean about the even numbered cogs. If you are talking about skid patches then maybe. If you have a brake and use it then don't waste your time thinking about it.
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Old 04-20-08, 11:13 PM   #4
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Chain will be fine but like said before your seatpost is probably going to be swapped out. and I'd check your headset now too, new cogs can really eff up seatposts and headsets if you don't make sure they are compatible.
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Old 04-20-08, 11:49 PM   #5
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48/19 is pretty low. I would try 48/18, or 42/16 - then you'll just be removing some links rather than buying a whole new chain.
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Old 04-20-08, 11:58 PM   #6
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i use a 42/17 and basically all i ride is hills.



you've definitely gotta stand up and pump when the going gets steep, but it's pretty alright.
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Old 04-21-08, 12:42 AM   #7
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42/16 is a good ratio if you're running into a lot of hills
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Old 04-21-08, 01:41 AM   #8
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If you switch to a 19t cog, you will very likely need a new chain unless it's one you installed and you still have the old links, or your dropouts are super long.

Now if you went and got a smaller chainring instead, it might be cheaper than buying a cog and a chain. And for that, 42/16 is a pretty good ratio.
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Old 04-21-08, 04:33 AM   #9
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My general knowledge - Cogs and chains are supposed to be changed at the same time, because you put wear in the chain, and you put wear in the cogs, and they fit to form eachother. If you change the cog, the chain will be wearing down the cog very fast, or will just not function as well.

Spend the 11-25 dollars and get a new chain. I think a new lock-ring too.
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Old 04-21-08, 05:33 AM   #10
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Maybe some of these people haven't been to Hawaii, but I'm suprised you can ride a 48-16 at all there.
48-19 might be a start, you will notice the difference immediately, and don't be closed minded to 48-22 or 22 either.
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Old 04-21-08, 07:23 AM   #11
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My general knowledge - Cogs and chains are supposed to be changed at the same time, because you put wear in the chain, and you put wear in the cogs, and they fit to form eachother. If you change the cog, the chain will be wearing down the cog very fast, or will just not function as well.

Spend the 11-25 dollars and get a new chain. I think a new lock-ring too.
If you replace your chain frequently enough, it won't stretch enough to mis-shape the rings and cogs. Listen to your lbs, they're not upselling you.
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Old 04-21-08, 12:53 PM   #12
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Oh, I no longer live in Honolulu.
Okay, so getting a new chainring would be a better idea?
My LBS doesn't help me too much...one of them is cool, but the rest of them are mountain bike ******s.
Let's see...my dropouts are pretty long (horizontal) but yes, I'm probably going to get a new chain with the cog, I'd prefer to get a new cog/lockring than a new chainring.
Oh yes, and the main reason I want to make this change isn't just for hills it's for the fact that I've gone through 4 rear tires in the last two months due to the 48/16's one skid patch, and I'd like to avoid this problem by changing the gearing.

Thanks for all the advice.
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Old 04-21-08, 08:13 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Peedtm View Post
If you replace your chain frequently enough, it won't stretch enough to mis-shape the rings and cogs. Listen to your lbs, they're not upselling you.
This may be true, but it also works as a backing point for me. The dude should just get a new chain anyways. 12-20 dollars isn't really a big deal unless he is on track bike welfare.
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Old 04-21-08, 09:14 PM   #14
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Then get a 17 tooth cog and a smaller chainring.
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Old 04-21-08, 09:40 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by chore4n View Post
Oh, I no longer live in Honolulu.
Okay, so getting a new chainring would be a better idea?
My LBS doesn't help me too much...one of them is cool, but the rest of them are mountain bike ******s.
Ouch, that hurts me . I really hope you mean " are ******s" instead. My lbs guys ride mountain bikes primarily I think. They were pretty excited to see the finished product assembled from the parts I bought from them.

On an on-topic note: I saw a couple references to putting links back into your chain. While it is possible to get this right, it is also possible to get the pin too far to one side, which can lead to some real fun chain failures. On my old mountain bike the chain didn't have a master-link, so after breaking it to do some sort of something (i don't remember what it was) I put it back on. About two hours into my ride met face to face with the ground because my chain exploded. Goooood times. So, just buy a new chain. Cheap ones for under 10$ and if you keep them maintained they can last a pretty long time. Good luck.
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Old 04-21-08, 10:03 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Judge_Posner View Post
nah you wont need a new chain, but just make sure your seatpost is compatible with your new cog.
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Old 04-22-08, 01:45 PM   #17
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So a new lockring would be needed too?
I currently have an aluminum cog and lockring, that's the main reason why I need this change, I know aluminum will not last, judging on how I ride.
I do not have a front brake, that's the reason for this gearing change, to add skid patches, and avoid the one skid patch with the 48/16 gearing.
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Old 04-22-08, 02:29 PM   #18
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Get a dura ace lockring.
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Old 04-22-08, 02:41 PM   #19
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Ouch, that hurts me . I really hope you mean " are ******s" instead. My lbs guys ride mountain bikes primarily I think. They were pretty excited to see the finished product assembled from the parts I bought from them.

On an on-topic note: I saw a couple references to putting links back into your chain. While it is possible to get this right, it is also possible to get the pin too far to one side, which can lead to some real fun chain failures. On my old mountain bike the chain didn't have a master-link, so after breaking it to do some sort of something (i don't remember what it was) I put it back on. About two hours into my ride met face to face with the ground because my chain exploded. Goooood times. So, just buy a new chain. Cheap ones for under 10$ and if you keep them maintained they can last a pretty long time. Good luck.
I effing hate master links and exclude them. I just use a chain breaker. Though I don't mtn bike, I do ride like a major jack-ass and I've yet to break a chain. Just make sure to look at it and see that the pin shows on each side equally.
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Old 04-22-08, 02:59 PM   #20
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Chain will be fine but like said before your seatpost is probably going to be swapped out. and I'd check your headset now too, new cogs can really eff up seatposts and headsets if you don't make sure they are compatible.
yeah, but the problem is a new seatpost and headset can lead to problems with your handlebars. you could also get a new set of bars to work out these issues, but swapping out so many parts can get expensive

id recommend just buying a kilo tt, or if you want, a 650 front wheel will eliminate the bar/seatpost/headset/cog incawmpedibillitie with your tarkbike.

but maybe get some breaks? you might brake your face or something without them.
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