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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 04-23-08, 10:55 AM   #1
Rusty Piton
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Oh Crap. What now?

What a crappy couple of days. Yesterday I had a limo related crash and today I stripped the goddamn threads out of the driveside crankarm of the old Bianchi I'm overhauling. After searching for two days for a 15mm socket that would actually fit inside the too-tight opening in the crankarm to get the bolt off and eventually just using a Dremel to take a few mm off the one I had, I threaded my crank-puller into the threads in the crankarm, gave the handle a twist and POP. The puller popped out of the crankarm and all the threads came with it. My question is, what now? the threads inside the crankarm are stripped and I need to get it off so I can hit it with a hammer untill it is unrecognizable, clean out the BB and put a new crankset on.
Help me!
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Old 04-23-08, 11:04 AM   #2
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yeah that works ive done it a few time before i bought a crank puller
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Old 04-23-08, 11:07 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Peedtm View Post
Leave the bolt out and ride it gently. You should feel it loosen up. Make sure you quit riding right away so you don't mess up the flat interface surfaces between BB and crank
This is a good suggestion, but you might also want to put the bolt that was originally holding the arm on back in but not tighten it all the way, to prevent the arm from falling all the way off when this happens.

Also, I don't know if you tried several sockets and had them not fit, but the socket I have that fits inside of crank arms is barely even visibly smaller than the cheap one that came with the socket wrench. Higher quality ones are made of better steel and tend to be made with slightly thinner walls.
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Old 04-23-08, 11:07 AM   #4
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Cool, that actually sounds dangerous and fun. Guess I'll put the rest of the bike back together now.
Thanks y'all!

I tried like like seven different sockets and finally settled on Dremel. Worked fine.
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Old 04-23-08, 11:30 AM   #5
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bffgss does a body/bike good
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Old 04-23-08, 11:30 AM   #6
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i dont think he CAN put the bolt back in. Remember, the threads are toast. Let us know how this works for you.
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Old 04-23-08, 11:40 AM   #7
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i dont think he CAN put the bolt back in. Remember, the threads are toast. Let us know how this works for you.
The way I read it, the crank arm threads are stripped out but the ones in the BB spindle are ok.

Last edited by hiredgoons; 04-23-08 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 04-23-08, 12:13 PM   #8
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The threads in the crankarm are stripped, so he can't use a puller. The bolt and spindle threads are not stripped.

A gear puller that you can rent at an auto parts store will sometimes work withot gouging the crank.
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Old 04-23-08, 12:25 PM   #9
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wait... aren't the threads in the BB spindle, not in the crank arm itself?
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Old 04-23-08, 01:09 PM   #10
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wait... aren't the threads in the BB spindle, not in the crank arm itself?
If it's a square taper BB, there are threads in the spindle that you use to bolt the crank arms on, and threads in the crank arms around said bolt that you thread a dust cap into. I've never installed/removed cranks on a splined BB, so I'm not sure if those are the same.
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Old 04-23-08, 01:25 PM   #11
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The threads in the crankarm are stripped, so he can't use a puller. The bolt and spindle threads are not stripped.
This is correct.
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Old 04-23-08, 03:12 PM   #12
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So I tried the trick with the riding around with no bolt and the crankarm didn't budge. I even squirted some Liquid Wrench in the crankarm/spindle area in hopes that that would help it break loose, but to no avail, the thing is on there just as tight as ever. I'm at my wits end here, people, and I'm ready to start bashing away with a mallett!**reaches for propane torch**
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Old 04-23-08, 03:24 PM   #13
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Go to an auto parts store and see if they can loan/rent/sell you a pickle fork.

It looks like a tuning fork, but is thin at the tip and gets thicker. Put the thin part between crank and bb, tap with hammer and as it gets thicker it will pop the arm off.
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Old 04-23-08, 03:46 PM   #14
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^^^Tie Rod Seperator.

The torch actually ain't a bad idea. The spindle is steel and the arm is likely aluminum so they'll expand/contract at different rates.
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Old 04-23-08, 05:18 PM   #15
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torch + hammer = for teh win.
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Old 04-23-08, 05:24 PM   #16
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arm + hammer = for teh baking soda.
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Old 04-23-08, 05:28 PM   #17
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If, as is probably the case, your BB spindle is steel and your cranks are aluminum, we can see what Sheldon has to say on a (not completely unrelated) topic.

http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

Pretty far down in this article about stuck seatposts he mentions something about being torch-happy, and how in this situation it's unwise as aluminum expands about twice times as much as steel for the same increase in temperature. However, for your situation (where the aluminum thing is stuck on the steel thing, not in it) some heat and a rubber mallet may do the trick.

If they're both steel, though, I got nothing.
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Old 04-23-08, 05:53 PM   #18
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This is a 30 second job at a well equipped shop. You ****ed up your cranks big time, and taking it off might **** your bottom bracket up as well.
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Old 04-23-08, 06:12 PM   #19
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With the tool you can remove cranks when ever. If you rely on a shop you gotta ride to the shop, and pay for labor. Especially if its stuck. Tool wins every time.
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Old 04-23-08, 06:17 PM   #20
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in the future: wrench down real hard on the extractor before you try to pull the cranks.
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Old 04-23-08, 06:18 PM   #21
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With the tool you can remove cranks when ever. If you rely on a shop you gotta ride to the shop, and pay for labor. Especially if its stuck. Tool wins every time.
What kind of babbling nonsense is this? You plan on stripping threads on a lot of cranks enough to justify buying the tool?

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in the future: wrench down real hard on the extractor before you try to pull the cranks.
And make sure there isn't a washer in there.
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Old 04-23-08, 06:20 PM   #22
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Go to an auto parts store and see if they can loan/rent/sell you a pickle fork.

It looks like a tuning fork, but is thin at the tip and gets thicker. Put the thin part between crank and bb, tap with hammer and as it gets thicker it will pop the arm off.
This is what bike shops do. Do this. Yes.
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Old 04-23-08, 09:21 PM   #23
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An other option would be to remove the BB spindle with the crank arm attached and punch the spindle out hammer style.

Ps. this is only possible on the non-drive side of a cup n cone bb and might not work depending on the particular tool required to remove the cup.
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Old 04-23-08, 10:02 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by schooner View Post
Go to an auto parts store and see if they can loan/rent/sell you a pickle fork.

It looks like a tuning fork, but is thin at the tip and gets thicker. Put the thin part between crank and bb, tap with hammer and as it gets thicker it will pop the arm off.
Do that. I've done it, and it works.
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Old 04-24-08, 04:58 AM   #25
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What kind of babbling nonsense is this? You plan on stripping threads on a lot of cranks enough to justify buying the tool?



And make sure there isn't a washer in there.
I think the OP stripped the threads do to previous damage or improper use. I've never stripped any threads using a crank puller.
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