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  1. #1
    jawesome imoscardotcom's Avatar
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    130mm spacing on 1973 Fuji

    im using my mom's old Fuji frame for a fixed gear conversion project. I've been shopping around for wheelsets for a few days, and I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with formula hubs, mavic cxp rims, and dt swiss spokes... but I'm concerned about the 130mm rear dropout spacing.

    can 120mm hubs be spaced out to fit 130 frames?

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    5mm spacer on each side won't hurt
    You can even bend the seatstays that much

  3. #3
    Cornucopia of Awesomeness baxtefer's Avatar
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    a 1973 Fuji shouldn't normally be spaced at 130mm. 126mm or even 120mm would have been more likely
    Sounds like someone already cold-set the frame to a wider spacing, so bending it back to 120mm shouldn't be an issue

    or you measured wrong.
    {o,o**
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    O RLY?

  4. #4
    jawesome imoscardotcom's Avatar
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    just re-measured. she's clocking in at around 133ish. wtf mate.

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    I don't mean to threadjack but I just bought an old 10 speed frame as well, and the spacing was set to 130 from 120. When buying, say, formula hubs is the only difference between 120, 126, and 130 a couple spacers? Or is there more to it such as axle length.

  6. #6
    Senior Member FarAwayBoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dzanot View Post
    I don't mean to threadjack but I just bought an old 10 speed frame as well, and the spacing was set to 130 from 120. When buying, say, formula hubs is the only difference between 120, 126, and 130 a couple spacers? Or is there more to it such as axle length.
    I actually have this exact question.
    The old Raleigh I'm converting has 130 mm spacing.
    Also, if I get a wheel spaced for that, will I be able to use on frames with smaller spacing?
    Say 120?
    -Carpe mundi

  7. #7
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    any insight for us?

  8. #8
    Senior Member tradtimbo's Avatar
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    If your frame isn't much of a high end frame, I would say cold set it. bringing a 130 to 120 is only 5mm of movement on each side. go slow, don't "bounce" it, and try not to bend more than you need to. Make sure to check the drops to make sure they stay parallel. If they are not, you could add a bending stress to the axle. an easy way to do this is to check out how your hub sits before tightening your bolts.

    If it is a higher end type frame, I use spacers. You'll have about 3mm of "extra" axle on each side if you put 5mm spacers on a typical formula hub with track nuts and forged drops.
    Can anyone give me a ride from Monterey to Big Bear on Wednesday or Thursday?

    The Sustainable Cyclist

  9. #9
    Senior Member tradtimbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FarAwayBoy View Post
    I actually have this exact question.
    The old Raleigh I'm converting has 130 mm spacing.
    Also, if I get a wheel spaced for that, will I be able to use on frames with smaller spacing?
    Say 120?
    you won't be able to use your 130 hub on a 120 frame without either taking out the spacers, or cold setting the frame.

    another thing I forgot to mention, if your going from 126 to 120 or 124 to 120 the movement of the drops is so small, you might be able to get away with just putting on your 120 spaced hub and tightening down to bring the drops in.

    on the hub axle, put your spacers between the lock nut and cone.
    Can anyone give me a ride from Monterey to Big Bear on Wednesday or Thursday?

    The Sustainable Cyclist

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    Quote Originally Posted by tradtimbo View Post
    If your frame isn't much of a high end frame, I would say cold set it. bringing a 130 to 120 is only 5mm of movement on each side. go slow, don't "bounce" it, and try not to bend more than you need to. Make sure to check the drops to make sure they stay parallel. If they are not, you could add a bending stress to the axle. an easy way to do this is to check out how your hub sits before tightening your bolts.

    If it is a higher end type frame, I use spacers. You'll have about 3mm of "extra" axle on each side if you put 5mm spacers on a typical formula hub with track nuts and forged drops.
    Awesome. Thank you!

  11. #11
    jawesome imoscardotcom's Avatar
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    thanks timbo. you nailed it.

  12. #12
    Villainous huerro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by imoscardotcom View Post
    just re-measured. she's clocking in at around 133ish. wtf mate.
    I would check to make sure your alignment is good before going any further. No 1973 frame shoud be 130mm. It sounds like this was bent at some point in its life.

  13. #13
    Senior Member maddyfish's Avatar
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    ^^^^Some touring specific frames were 130 mm. Spacing out for that frame should be no trouble.
    Not too much to say here

  14. #14
    jawesome imoscardotcom's Avatar
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    I've changed my mind and decided to restore my mom's 73 Fuji as a multi-gear. The 130mm spacing is better for new road wheels anyway.

    consequently, i will be using my dad's 73 Nishiki Competition frame w/ 120mm spacing as the fixie project. I'm waiting on Weinmann LP18's w/ formula hubs, and 15t surly cog & lockring.

    The cranks on it are 165mm suginos for jawesome clearance. Needless to say, i'm psyched!

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