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  1. #1
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    to Frame Save or not to Frame Save?

    Question for those who have been riding steel for a while...

    Getting a new bike this week (surly steamroller) and now deciding if i need to framesave it or not. I ordered the complete build so it would mean taking it down then framesaving it then building back up. Small cost issue as i'll be getting help from my LBS but I wanted to hear the pro's and cons of it. I didn't do this on my old trek steel mtb and it has held up for 10 years or so...i wasn't sure if I needed to use JP Weigle Frame Saver or linseed oil etc.

    Advice?

    Thanks,

    kj

  2. #2
    Senior Member the pope's Avatar
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    identify a downside

  3. #3
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    i'm looking for opinions on if its worth it since the bike comes prebuilt i will be paying for them to take it back down and then framesave then build it back, then not getting the bike for another couple days..

    so just looking for opinions on this and if everyone does it or if it's just something of an upsell
    Last edited by kjunx; 06-23-08 at 10:08 PM.

  4. #4
    loves his IRO. eXCeSS's Avatar
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    you do know you can just spray in your frame?
    you dont have to "take it back down" you just pull some **** off and spray it in....

  5. #5
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    excess - actually no i didn't know that. so i can just take the seatpost out and spray away? then basically turn the bike around till it gets everywhere? Thanks for the tip. i haven't done this before, just read a bunch online and seemed as though most people apply it on a naked frame.

  6. #6
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    I'll do it to my bike when i get my new one.

  7. #7
    Senior Member the pope's Avatar
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    People do it. Some people in wet areas do it more than others in dry areas. Some people with steel bikes supposedly less likely to rust, like OS Platinum tubing, don't do it. Some still do. Are you a weight weenie? Don't do it. If you plan on reselling the frame some day it's probably a positive to say that you did it.

    Whether it's worth it is entirely subjective to each person. Does it work? I dunno. Is there data online somewhere apart from the manufacturer's? Is there someone out there that says that they frame-savered the crap out of their frame and it still rusted?

    Would you have done it if the frame was not yet built up?

  8. #8
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    All - Thanks for the input

  9. #9
    No cud for foil. DasProfezzional's Avatar
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    Frame Save that sucker. Rust protection and an afternoon buzz.

  10. #10
    Senior Member filtersweep's Avatar
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    It is probably easier getting it into your headtube if your frame is undressed.

    Quote Originally Posted by kjunx View Post
    excess - actually no i didn't know that. so i can just take the seatpost out and spray away? then basically turn the bike around till it gets everywhere? Thanks for the tip. i haven't done this before, just read a bunch online and seemed as though most people apply it on a naked frame.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Ziemas's Avatar
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    You need to disassemble the bike to a bare frame. Frame Saver also comes with detailed instructions. It's well worth it.

  12. #12
    IRL Banhammer idiq's Avatar
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    Thoughts on frame saving w/o fully dissembling:

    Applying frame saver without disassembling bike
    saddle sores bike club | prepare to be rode

  13. #13
    Senior Member bornagainst's Avatar
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    It would be stupid not to.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Quote Originally Posted by Catnap View Post
    maybe you sharted when you were straining to clear that last hill...

  14. #14
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    Thanks all, reason i was asking is i was getting conflicting answers from the folks at my LBS, QBP and Surly etc, everyone seemed to have a different opinion if it was worth it or not or if the steel was already treated when it was manufactured etc.

    (I did read the care guide blog on surly, but wanted to get a feel for what people on this forum do to their own rides)

    Normally I store my bikes inside and they are just outside when i'm out and about running errands. If it's raining so be it, i really don't try to avoid the bad weather.

  15. #15
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    I'd tell you waht im going to do. Spray it down the seat tube, and any other opening i can find and just move the bike upside down and stuff to spread it around.


    **********Does anyone know if i have a sealed BB if it will hurt spraying frame saver in the frame?

  16. #16
    Senior Member the pope's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjunx View Post
    ... i was getting conflicting answers from the folks at my LBS, QBP and Surly etc, everyone seemed to have a different opinion if it was worth it or not or if the steel was already treated when it was manufactured etc...
    Exactly. But if you can afford it, do it for a little extra insurance. I had a Bianchi DISS (aluminum) a few years ago and when I removed the bottom bracket after one wet, snowy spring about a quarter cup of water poured out. Don't know how it got in there but it sure wasn't going anywhere. They must have used the bottle cage bolt holes as the venting holes when welding or something.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Ziemas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onespeed89 View Post
    I'd tell you waht im going to do. Spray it down the seat tube, and any other opening i can find and just move the bike upside down and stuff to spread it around.


    **********Does anyone know if i have a sealed BB if it will hurt spraying frame saver in the frame?
    I doubt it, but it'll be no good for the headset if any gets near it.

  18. #18
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    Yah i'll keep it away from the headset, but i want to atleast get in in the seat tube and maybe the rear triangle.

  19. #19
    King of the Hipsters
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    Have your lbs remove the headset and bottom bracket before applying the framesaver.

    Your lbs should know to leave the frame in different positions for a few hours so that the framesaver will spread evenly and completely throughout the interior of the frame.

    My lbs tells me framesaver and bearings do not mix well.

    I fit many people's definition of a weight weenie, and, nonetheless, I consider framesaver an absolute necessity.

    But then, I ride both my fixed gear bikes year round, regardless of weather.

  20. #20
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    My LBS will charge so much to remove all that stuff. They said they charge $27+ to install a threaded headset... i can't imagine how much it would cost them to remove the headset and BB. I could spray the frame it'd just cost a lot to ahve them remove that stuff and then install it again.

  21. #21
    Senior Member Ziemas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onespeed89 View Post
    My LBS will charge so much to remove all that stuff. They said they charge $27+ to install a threaded headset... i can't imagine how much it would cost them to remove the headset and BB. I could spray the frame it'd just cost a lot to ahve them remove that stuff and then install it again.
    Wow, that's expensive.

  22. #22
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    Yeah i know they're lame. There are two other shops around me, and one doesn't work on bikes they dont sell (lame) and the other is a new shop with guys im not sure i trust.

  23. #23
    Senior Member cizzlak's Avatar
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    wow. back when i first was learning what it took to bust up a frame for full conversion, I took my old '83 univega viva sport into the shop to have the headset taken apart (this was before I had all the tools and knowledge) and the guy let me come hold the fork while he used some channel locks on the sh!tty old headset lockrings and then used a giant hammer and some pointless parktool object to knock out the headtube cups. watching this let me know i could do this all on my own without f'ing anything up. and all i bought was a $20 sh!tty STX 1" threaded headset for my conversion, and the removal of the oldschool headset was essentially free. this also conincides with the first time i learned how to stuff that "tip your wrench" can by the register. milwaukee has some great LBSs (at least on the East side).

    $27 to install a threaded headset is probably fair shop rate, but damn if i cant do it in 5 minutes myself these days. everyone learns somewhere/time!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by cizzlak View Post
    wow. back when i first was learning what it took to bust up a frame for full conversion, I took my old '83 univega viva sport into the shop to have the headset taken apart (this was before I had all the tools and knowledge) and the guy let me come hold the fork while he used some channel locks on the sh!tty old headset lockrings and then used a giant hammer and some pointless parktool object to knock out the headtube cups. watching this let me know i could do this all on my own without f'ing anything up. and all i bought was a $20 sh!tty STX 1" threaded headset for my conversion, and the removal of the oldschool headset was essentially free. this also conincides with the first time i learned how to stuff that "tip your wrench" can by the register. milwaukee has some great LBSs (at least on the East side).

    $27 to install a threaded headset is probably fair shop rate, but damn if i cant do it in 5 minutes myself these days. everyone learns somewhere/time!
    How hard is it to insall a threaded headset? Also i hear some of the newer threadless headsets don't need a headset press to install is this true?

  25. #25
    Senior Member cizzlak's Avatar
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    threadless is slightly different than threaded, but the prep is essentially the same. the real change is in the stem installation, but we are talking threaded headsets at the moment (aren't we?).

    to be honest with you, i've never used a headset press. i guess i've never had a bike so expensive that i was afraid of doing things the ghetto way. i just pound them in gently with a mallet, taking steps to protect the paint/cup surface as best as possible. i installed a campy record 1" threaded headset cups this way, as well as used a piece of pipe to set the crown race. it has been solid for over 3000 miles, and the purists may hate me, but i would defy them to tell from looking at it that i installed it without any special tools. just my method, wouldnt recommend it per se.

    as far as how to do the whole process, i would use the forum's Search feature above. it has been discussed a number of times. park has info on their site as well http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127 , but of course they manufacture specialized bike tools (very good ones, but i digress) and will be recommending you use them...

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