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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 07-08-08, 05:53 AM   #1
idiq
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Review: TruVativ Omnium vs FSA Carbon Pro Track

Recently I purchased the TruVativ Omnium crankset to replace my FSA Carbon Pro Track's.

Out of the box the cranks had an excellent appearance and looked very well made, no cheap machining lines or marks, it was all very smooth. FWIW even cheap cranksets have this down for the most part. The stock chainring is a 48T, 144mm (bcd of course) by 1/8". I replaced it with an older 'black' Dura-Ace 46T (1/8").

The installation was straight up. You open the BB cups, asses the information for what type of use you're going to ride, and then screw them in. The literature included with the bottom bracket states that for Track use, not to use the included spacers. This will yield a 41mm chainline. Cranks were just as easy to install. Since this setup uses an external bearing BB system, you bolt the arms directly to each other, as the spindle is attached to the arm on one side. This is where the extra stiffness comes in - essentially you are bolting the arms to each other, or using one bolt, whereas in a traditional system, the bottom bracket is bolted attached on both sides and works as the 'middle-man' so to speak. Because the arms essentially rest on the bearings themselves, it is important to use a torque wrench during the installation. TruVativ suggests torquing between 48 and 54nm, I torqued down between ~50-52nm.

Unfortunately, my chainline is off by ~2mm. I am running a Dura-Ace 7600 Hub w/ a Miche Cog. However, this should be alleviated by moving to a Dura-Ace cog, which is about 2mm further out than the Miche. My chainline distance on the rear will go to 42.45, from the 41.25 it is currently at - these numbers are calculated from here. Interestingly enough, my chainline should be pretty much dead-on using my current setup (41mm front, 41.25 rear) but it is off for whatever reason - either the calculation or the literature.

Now, for the good stuff - How much stiffer are these cranks? Are they worth the cost? The weight?

First, I'll be completely honest: I did not notice a difference in the stiffness of the cranks. I don't do match sprinting for a career or anything, but I have ridden for a bit now, and have ridden the FSA's for about a year as well. I did move from 165mm crank arms to 170mm crank arms, which was noticeably more comfortable.

For the cost, they are cheaper than the older, reviewed, FSA Crabon Pro Track's, and certainly less expensive than the newer Carbon Track's. For weights, the Carbon Track's are listed on QBP as 809 grams for the crank-arms (including ring) and the TruVativ Omnium's are listed on QBP as 825 grams. The bottom bracket for the Carbon Track's is listed on QBP as 249 grams (Platinum Pro Track, fully adjustable) while the TruVativ GXP BB weight is not listed (nor could I find it on the SRAM/TruVativ website). Since this would be cups only, I would be shocked to see it weigh more than 249 grams, and believe the complete setup to actually weigh less than the FSA Carbon Track setup.

In closing, I believe that the TruVativ Omnium's are the best buy for Track/Fixed-Gear cranksets right now. They weigh less than FSA's nicest carbon crankset, and have a stiffer design, as well as cost less. The only downside is that the chainline with the TruVativ Crankset is NOT adjustable, and either the literature or calculations are off (I hope the latter).

About the reviewer: I've been 'seriously' riding bikes for about 3.5 years. This is when I purchased a Trek 2500 to start riding. I switch up my riding between a Trek 2300 (Warranty), BMC Streetfire (Campy Record) and my Trek T1. Currently, I wrench at a shop in Virginia.

Pictures:

Omnium's Installed:



Chainline off:


Street/Bullhorn weight - 16.75 lbs:


Track (Easton Carbon Drops) Weight - 15.25 lbs:


*Weights were rounded off to nearest quarter pound.
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Last edited by idiq; 06-14-09 at 10:32 AM. Reason: Add pictures
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Old 07-08-08, 10:21 AM   #2
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2mm variance in the chainline is not even noticeable. .25mm chainline variance is well within the margin of measuring error.

Last edited by MIN; 07-08-08 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 07-08-08, 10:58 AM   #3
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Can't you adjust the chainline of the crankset by using the bottom bracket spacers, or getting ahold of some?

Either way 1mm is nothing to worry about for chainline. I'm glad to hear that you think it'll be spot on once you get the Dura Ace cog, because I plan on doing the same setup when my build is done later this week - DA hub/cog w/ Omnium cranks. Suntour cog for the street since it's 17t...

Oh yeah I think that 825g for the Omniums includes the BB.

IMO in order to actually gauge stiffness of a crank you need to be running over 80", accelerating, and be able to push whatever gearing you're in decently.
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Old 07-08-08, 11:15 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIN View Post
2mm variance in the chainline is not even noticeable. .25mm chainline variance is well within the margin of measuring error.
I'll post pictures later as I said. You can see the chain immediately shifting outward leaving the cog, and again shifting inward when it engages the chainring. Besides that, it makes a nice creaking sound as well, which is NOT from the chain being too tight.

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Can't you adjust the chainline of the crankset by using the bottom bracket spacers, or getting ahold of some?
No, the issue is that it goes too far OUT, not inward. Using the spacers would only push it further out. I could redish the wheel but it's not worth ruining a perfectly good wheel, or set the tracking off.
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Old 07-08-08, 11:17 AM   #5
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ruh roh
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Old 07-08-08, 09:17 PM   #6
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Pictures up!
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Old 07-08-08, 09:23 PM   #7
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So what'd you measure the line out at on the chainring? Their literature says it gives a 41mm...
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Old 07-08-08, 09:28 PM   #8
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So what'd you measure the line out at on the chainring? Their literature says it gives a 41mm...
I don't even know why, but I didn't measure the line out from the rear when I went by the shop tonight. When posting earlier I just referenced the measurements Sheldon gives, but there has to be something off. According to the TruVativ literature, the chainline is 41mm (from the cranks up front), and according to the measurements online, I should have 40.55/41.25 rear - but either way the line is clearly off more than that...

Tomorrow, I'll get some actual decent measurements and pin-point where the calculation errors are occuring. Whether it be TruVativ, or Sheldon's database.
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Old 07-08-08, 09:35 PM   #9
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Personally I just go by Sheldon's table and theoretical measurements because measuring down to the millimeters leaves way too much margin for human error...
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Old 06-14-09, 10:25 AM   #10
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This picture scares me. Are people still having trouble getting their chainline dialed in with these cranks?

I'm about to pull the trigger and buy some Omniums so I've been looking up old threads like this. I've also seen a couple of online stores list Omniums as "discontinued", and when I emailed chainreaction about their stock of Omnium cranks I got a reply saying "Our suppliers only list the Super Omnium which retails at 196.99, I don't know if this will be of any interest to you"

Are these cranks discontinued now?
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Old 06-14-09, 10:31 AM   #11
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[Image removed]
This picture scares me. Are people still having trouble getting their chainline dialed in with these cranks?

I'm about to pull the trigger and buy some Omniums so I've been looking up old threads like this. I've also seen a couple of online stores list Omniums as "discontinued", and when I emailed chainreaction about their stock of Omnium cranks I got a reply saying "Our suppliers only list the Super Omnium which retails at 196.99, I don't know if this will be of any interest to you"

Are these cranks discontinued now?
The chainline is fixed with omniums since the bottom bracket is external. That being said, as long as you're putting it on a track frame, the chainline should line-up fine. My issue was resolved by moving from a Miche Cog + Carrier setup to a Dura-Ace cog, as different cog + hub combinations do not all yield the same spacing (width).

The Omnium's aren't discontinued but SRAM bought TruVativ so the TruVativ cranks are being phased out and the SRAM ones are coming in (although they're identical, just badged differently). Although you're in the UK, try looking on eBay - I just picked some up on eBay US for $155.00 shipped + bottom bracket.
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Old 06-14-09, 10:38 AM   #12
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No they are definitely not discontinued. Benscycle.com still has them...
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Old 06-14-09, 10:58 AM   #13
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My issue was resolved by moving from a Miche Cog + Carrier setup to a Dura-Ace ring, as different cog + hub combination do not all have the same spacing.
Ah, ok. So that picture was with the Miche stuff. As you said, there's not much spacers can do if the chainline is going outwards from the cog. That Miche track hub/cog business sounds like a right pain in the arse. Thanks for clearing that up, but not for scaring me with your chainline picture ;-)
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Old 06-14-09, 07:38 PM   #14
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the chainline with mine was off, but I calculated for a 42mm
it ended up being 4mm off from my quando hub with a dura ace cog.
I just spaced and re-dished my wheel, not hard if you have the patience.
just built a wheel off a dura ace hub, so we'll see how it goes
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Old 06-15-09, 02:59 AM   #15
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Does anyone know how I'd go with the Omnium chainline on a formula hub? I want a 17t cog and was probably gonna go with a Surly cog, but any cog which won't make me need to flap around re-dishing the wheel would be good. .
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Old 06-15-09, 09:31 AM   #16
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Does anyone know how I'd go with the Omnium chainline on a formula hub? I want a 17t cog and was probably gonna go with a Surly cog, but any cog which won't make me need to flap around re-dishing the wheel would be good. .
youll be fine. omniums are adjustable. check sheldon for a chart of spacing of specific hubs and cogs.
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Old 06-15-09, 04:52 PM   #17
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Does anyone know how I'd go with the Omnium chainline on a formula hub? I want a 17t cog and was probably gonna go with a Surly cog, but any cog which won't make me need to flap around re-dishing the wheel would be good. .
The Sheldon link is mentioned in my review, and also here.
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Old 06-15-09, 05:20 PM   #18
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You open the BB cups, asses the information for what type of use you're going to ride, and then screw them in.
hey, "extra stiffness" is nsfw
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Old 08-31-09, 10:21 AM   #19
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Sorry for ressurecting an older thread, but I've got some questions on this crankset

I'm considering using this crank on a conversion with an ENO hub. According to literature the ENO hub is setup for a 47.5mm chainline, would this crank work with the ENO hub? Is it possible to space it accordingly? Are the spacers just large washers that slip over the crank spindle?

How's the crank holding up?
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Old 08-31-09, 10:29 AM   #20
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The ENO is spaced to use the outside chainring for a road crank. This allows you to use almost any external BB road crank. This should be both cheaper and easier to find.
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Old 08-31-09, 11:25 AM   #21
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case and point, thanks
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Old 08-31-09, 11:29 AM   #22
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splined eno is not 47.5mm chainline
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Old 08-31-09, 02:18 PM   #23
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My Eno is older so it's not splined. What is the new chainline?
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Old 08-31-09, 09:20 PM   #24
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The splined isn't?
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Old 09-01-09, 12:22 AM   #25
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splined eno chainline

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My Eno is older so it's not splined.
What is the new chainline?
Phil Wood BB and ENO Hub?
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