Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    BeaverTerror Yan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Shanghai, China
    My Bikes
    2013 True North custom touring; 2009 Unicycle.com Club Uni; 1989 Miele Tivoli; 1979 Colnago Sport
    Posts
    1,541
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Help me spec a fixed Cross Check

    I have a work term this fall and I've decided to buy a fixed gear Cross Check to use as my daily commuter. I want to have a rough idea of the components I want before I head down to the shop this weekend.

    Information / rquirements:
    * 15 mile (one way) commute
    * Toronto, Canada = snow in winter
    * I weigh 140lbs
    * This will also be my joyriding around town bike, so I want to keep it fairly light.
    * I don't mind paying for pricier stuff, but I'm trying to budget smartly.
    * I want bullhorns, toe clips, and a flip flop hub.

    That said, please recommend some components for me. Bars, brakes, levers, headset, stem, wheelset, crankset, BB, pedals, seatpost, etc. I already have a Brooks Team Pro that I'm going to throw on there.

    Finally, what gears should I be runnng? Toronto is pretty flat with some rolling hills.
    Yan

    2013 True North custom touring; 2010 Novara Randonee; 2009 Unicycle.com Club 24"; 1989 Miele Tivoli; 1979 Colnago Sport

  2. #2
    No plan. peabodypride's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,744
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Generic xcheck build, this is how I will be building mine.

    Wheelset: open pros, aeroheads, maybe even CXP-33s or 22s. Depending on your budget in descending order. I'd use 33s personally. For my build I am going to break away from Formulas and try some other brands, maybe Miches.

    Dura Ace cog, White Industries freewheel. Both are built to last commuting.

    Not sure on tires, probably 25 front and 28 rear.

    Bars: Syntace stratos pursuit. Always wanted these. (I would build up with drops)

    Stem: Thomson

    Saddle: Brooks B17 narrow black

    Seatpost: Thomson

    Cranks: something nicer than RPM/IRO generics but not high-end track cranks. Probably Sugino RDs with ZEN chainring?

    Izumi Eco chain

    Pedals: For me, Time ATAC, but generic MKS kit for clipped, with nylon straps.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    413
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    This sounds fun!

    Here's how I'd build my hypothetical fixed/single-speed cross check.

    Wheels: Salsa Delgado Cross rims laced to formula fixed/free hubs and double-butted spokes.
    Headset: Ritchey/Cane Creek/whatever I can find cheap
    Stem: Thomson
    Handlebars: Either some traditional, parts-bin drops or some parts-bin risers. Risers are fun on the trail, but can feel a little slow on the road, especially on descents.
    Saddle: Maybe WTB Devo. That's pretty personal, anyways.
    Seatpost: Thompson or something carbon.
    Cranks: Sugino RD
    Chain: Izumi ECO or equivalent.
    Pedals: MKS GR-9 or an SPD
    Tires: 700cx38mm WTB All-terrainasaurus. Decent on and off the road. A little bit cushy. I still need to find a favorite cross tire, but I think I like the fat ones.

  4. #4
    dmg
    dmg is offline
    Beautiful Member dmg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    653
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm going to take the cheaper approach...

    Thomson seatposts are kind of spendy, although nice. I would go for anything else with a two-bolt adjuster if you don't want to be a thief magnet. Same with the stem - I would just go for an OEM whatever unless you've got money to burn. Also, if you're riding in the snow I would go with something synthetic instead of the brooks (or at least get something for use in the winter).
    For hubs: since you're going to be spacing the rear hub to 130mm, I would get whatever 120mm hub they have that has a long enough axel to space it without having swap it out (except Surlys. Eff Surly hubs). Formulas are fine for most people, dia-compe / iro premiums are great as a step up.
    For the type of riding you're talking about, most non-generic cranksets will be fine.

  5. #5
    No plan. peabodypride's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,744
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    oops, forgot the snow. definitely low-maintenance synthetic is where it's at.

    i think sette makes a carbon two-bolt seatpost that's cheaper than a Tommy. But trust me -- once you have a nice Tommy Elite with two bolts and a degree chart that lets you know exactly how your saddle is slanted against horizontal, the $$$ becomes worth it. Simply because when you do a complete tear down and rebuild you know exactly what angle the saddle will be at. And you can standardize saddle angles across bikes!

    If you can spend the coin on the Tommy seatpost and electric tape the logo if theft concerns you.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •