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anyone know who makes these bars, what they're called, where i can find them, etc? I feel like my drops are giving me carpal tunnel, want to give bullhorns a shot.
fancy bars at oldschooltrack |
Profile Airwing, perhaps?
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If you're truly looking to allevaite wrist problems, I wouldnt go for a dropped bar like that. Consider a flat TT or stoker bar.
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Originally Posted by stevo
If you're truly looking to allevaite wrist problems, I wouldnt go for a dropped bar like that. Consider a flat TT or stoker bar.
sorry about the double post. The lesson is, as always, i'm an idiot |
wrist pain is usually a setup issue due to excess weight being put through your hands and not your butt or legs. Something like a handlebar being too low, as stevo suggests, and/or something like your saddle being too far forward. Play around with your position on the bike and find a bar that works for you, it may not look as cool as that bar, but if it brings you pain then you won't ride the bike anyway.
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Originally Posted by s2sxiii
anyone know who makes these bars, what they're called, where i can find them, etc? I feel like my drops are giving me carpal tunnel, want to give bullhorns a shot.
fancy bars at oldschooltrack looks liek they are out of the profile bars I got. I really like them myself. |
Originally Posted by s2sxiii
I don't know what's causing all my wrist pain.. whether its just the rough ride of the aluminum frame or that the bars drops don't fit me well, or that i'm just a pansy, but if flat or a lesser drop is the way to go, i'll have to try that.
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answered my own question, found them at the catalog link from harris cycles. They're Deda Elementi TT Cow-Horn Bars, (fancy bars)
I'm gonna go talk to to the LBS and see what they say about it. I'll probably end up trying some stoker bars as was suggested. I love those deda's but function over fashion dictates here. Especially since i haven't ridden in 3 days thanks to the hand/wrist pain i'm getting. Anything to get me back on the bike thanks for your help, all suggestions are appreciated |
Worth a read. From the Rivendell Site
--- Handlebar style You’re sensitive to handlebars because you’re in constant contact with them, with a sensitive part of your body (that would be your hands). Here are some super-blatant opinions: Drop bars are the most versatile, but not always the best choice. They offer more hand positions and accommodate more variance in body angles than any other bar shape, so for rides longer than an hour over varied terrain and at generally high efforts, they’re the best. As the ride shortens, the terrain stabilizes, and the effort declines, the benefits of a drop bar become less important. Moustache Handlebars (sold mainly by us, so keep that in mind when you read this praise) offer lots of different hand positions, and a more upright position than do drops. They’re ideal for commuting, off-road, and longer rides. They offer an easier and more upright access to powerful braking than do drops—good for commuting and trail rides, and not a drawback ever. What they don’t offer is a hand position next to the stem, which some riders can’t or won’t give up. But Moustache H’bar fans are quick to point out that the outer grip position accommodates the same upright body position as the next-to-stem grip on a drop bar, and offers better bike control. It is more important on Moustache Handlebars to get the bars level or slightly higher than the saddle. Sometimes that means using an up-stem. Also, go shorter on the extension. Upright-Curved bars, such as the Dove or Albatross, are fantastic bars for comfortable upright riding, and for shorter commutes and all-around fun riding, can’t be beat. The curves give you a natural grip area, and in the case of the Albatross bar, the curve is long enough so that if you use a bar-end shifter or otherwise free up the bar in front of the brake lever, you get an additional grip, good for climbing. Some guys think these bars look like Old Lady bars, but they’re nuts. This is a fantastic design, and everybody reading this now has at least one bike that would benefit tremendously (and be a lot more fun to ride) if it had a curved upright bar on it. Bars of this type are almost always skinnier than drops or Moustache h’bars, and so require mountain bike brake levers and grips. That’s not a drawback, just a fact. Straight (“flat”) mountain bike style handlebars are best for steep off-road downhills. You can get by with them on just about any ride, but their un-ergonomic grip and lack of hand positions makes them the last choice for general riding—which is why we don’t sell them. |
Most of my bikes end up with either North Road bars or plain riser bars. My main fixie has 5" risers right now for a fairly upright position. They're just plain cheap chrome steel, look kinda like low BMX bar without the crossbar. I've ridden up to 15 mi on them and they're pretty comfy. I also use fat cheap foam grips.
North Road bars are also nice and have a significant sweep back. I finds the hand position on North Road bars to be very "natural" feeling. Either bar I mention can usually be found for less than $10 in steel. Cheap enough for a worthwhile experiment. More $$$ in aluminum. BTW, North Road bars are pretty similar to the Rivendell albatross or dove bars, the same shape as on old three speed english roadsters. The Nittos are undoubtedly nice. However, I use Wald (cheap American steel) and Pyramid (cheaper Asian steel). One thing to consider, the more upright you ride, them more weight on your butt. Meaning you may want a wider (or at least different) saddle. |
Originally Posted by s2sxiii
anyone know who makes these bars, what they're called, where i can find them, etc? I feel like my drops are giving me carpal tunnel, want to give bullhorns a shot.
fancy bars at oldschooltrack i talk to that girl online quite frequently. those are old mavic TT bars (that's the reason i started talking to her in the first place). i have a set on my road bike right now. i originally bought them for my pursuit bike, thinking they'd be really cool and fit the whole "retro" thing i had going on with the frame, but it ended up that the 2" drop to them, when combined with the 650 front wheel, was just a tad too deep for my lower back. so now they live on my roadie, and they make me very happy. mavic doesn't make them anymore, but the profiles are pretty much the same design. |
I just can't talk myself into the rivendell style of bar. Just doesn't fit my aesthetic view of my bike. And yes, that contradicts my earlier function over fashion statement.
*warning, possible rant ahead. Any employees of my LBS (not Baer wheels, you guys are awesome) should stop reading now* So on the advice of streners, i head to up my LBS to see if its a fit issue. And, of course, they don't think so. Its not my fit, its something else they need to sell me. This time it's specialized Bar Phat, little gel pads for under your tape, part of their ridiculous body geometry line. Every time I go in there, its something else they need to sell me. To top it off, they've got jack in stock. 5 locations in Columbus, a huge store, and they've got to offer than the tiny bike shop down the street. When it came time to switch the langster to fixed, they had no cogs in stock. None. They've got 3 sets of handlebars in stock, all of them fancy carbon road drops, no bullhorns or anything else. They can always order it, sure, but then i might as well get it off the internet. But they never fail to try and sell me something else I don't need. While they're spouting off about how great the bar phat is, they're trying to sell me gel padded gloves and some light they had on sale. It's like going to the mall, only with bikes. Some of the mechanics are cool, don't get me wrong, and one or two of them even ride fixed gear. But i just cant take their **** anymore. I went directly home and tore their lame sticker off my bike, probably voiding my 3 year service warranty, but screw them. I'm taking my bike to baer from now on. I'd rather pay full price (higher than internet prices) for parts just to talk to someone who knows something about my bike and cares enough to talk to me as a person and not just a customer. All of you coming into Columbus for the alleycat, Baer is sponsoring it, and you should check out their shop, and not bikesource, for any and all of your biking needs while in town. |
Originally Posted by s2sxiii
I just can't talk myself into the rivendell style of bar. Just doesn't fit my aesthetic view of my bike. And yes, that contradicts my earlier function over fashion statement.
Smoking' Hot Bike inside Executed better than my setup, but any bike with them on screams "bike freak!" :eek: |
Originally Posted by riderx
Sheeeeeet man, moustache bars ooze style. Just look at The Fixer's setup:
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Originally Posted by s2sxiii
answered my own question, found them at the catalog link from harris cycles. They're Deda Elementi TT Cow-Horn Bars, (fancy bars)
I'm gonna go talk to to the LBS and see what they say about it. I'll probably end up trying some stoker bars as was suggested. I love those deda's but function over fashion dictates here. Especially since i haven't ridden in 3 days thanks to the hand/wrist pain i'm getting. Anything to get me back on the bike thanks for your help, all suggestions are appreciated these are extremely similar to the Profile's I have.. similar drop and everything.. |
I'm trying to find someone capable enough to do custom bends on al tubing so I can have the bars I want.
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Those are not Profile Airwings. I have a pair of Airwings and they don't have that much scoop to the rise in the bar. They are cool though.
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Have you tried flipping your road drops and cutting off the excess?
Worked great for me. And no extra expense. |
Originally Posted by Eureka
Have you tried flipping your road drops and cutting off the excess?
Worked great for me. And no extra expense. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by trekkie820
I might try that...would I still be able to have the brake hoods and levers?
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That bike looks very similar to my setup, aside from bars...What gearing are you running? Is it fixed or single speed? And, what did you use to cut the bars?
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trekkie820 wrote:
What gearing are you running? 40/16 for now. Almost redy to go up. Is it fixed or single speed? SS for now. Fixed is the goal. And, what did you use to cut the bars? Hacksaw |
Originally Posted by streners
wrist pain is usually a setup issue due to excess weight being put through your hands and not your butt or legs. Something like a handlebar being too low, as stevo suggests, and/or something like your saddle being too far forward. Play around with your position on the bike and find a bar that works for you, it may not look as cool as that bar, but if it brings you pain then you won't ride the bike anyway.
I was told that if the bike is properly fitted, you should be able to have someone hold the bike upright for you while you assume a riding position, then grab the flat part of the bars. Next, remove your hands from the bars (you could flip your hands over and put the back of your hands on the flats). You should not feel like you are "falling" forward and your abs and lower back muscles should be able to hold up your torso with no support from your arms. You might also try a new set of padded or gel gloves before swapping out hardware. Dan |
Originally Posted by Eureka
trekkie820 wrote:
What gearing are you running? 40/16 for now. Almost redy to go up. Is it fixed or single speed? SS for now. Fixed is the goal. And, what did you use to cut the bars? Hacksaw |
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