i cant get the rear wheel straight
02-25-09, 01:14 PM
#1
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i cant get the rear wheel straight
I cannot get my rear wheel straight in the drop outs. I bought some chain tensioners thinking that it would help out a bit getting it straight. It turns out I just can't get wheel straight at all. Does anyone have any advice on this?
02-25-09, 01:20 PM
#2
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Just walk it back until it is straight and the chain has proper tension. This involves bolting one side down and pulling the other side back, bolting that down, unbolting the other side, pulling it back and bolting it down...
just repeat.
just repeat.
02-25-09, 01:42 PM
#4
hello
Don't do this with the bike up side down.
Always remove, install, and align wheels with the bike right side up. Takes a little practice at first but eventually you'll be able to install and align the rear wheel in just a few short seconds.
Always remove, install, and align wheels with the bike right side up. Takes a little practice at first but eventually you'll be able to install and align the rear wheel in just a few short seconds.
02-25-09, 02:36 PM
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https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=380096300850
Installing the rear wheel while the bikes not upside is for?
Installing the rear wheel while the bikes not upside is for?
02-25-09, 03:17 PM
#7
hello
It is more practical to do this with the weight of the frame placed directly on the rear axle. The axle will seat properly up against the upper lips of the trackends/dropouts. It's also much easier to walk the wheel back and hold its position for alignment with the weight of the frame firmly riding on the axle. 
Besides, flipping the bike upside down to change wheels is for amateurs....
Besides, flipping the bike upside down to change wheels is for amateurs....
Last edited by roadfix; 02-25-09 at 03:47 PM.
02-25-09, 03:28 PM
#8
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02-25-09, 03:39 PM
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you dont happen to ride a tommaso augusta do you?
02-26-09, 09:08 AM
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It is more practical to do this with the weight of the frame placed directly on the rear axle. The axle will seat properly up against the upper lips of the trackends/dropouts. It's also much easier to walk the wheel back and hold its position for alignment with the weight of the frame firmly riding on the axle.
Besides, flipping the bike upside down to change wheels is for amateurs....
Besides, flipping the bike upside down to change wheels is for amateurs....
i spend too much time trying to get the bike to balance upside down anyway
02-26-09, 09:25 AM
#13
L T X B O M P F A N S R
It is more practical to do this with the weight of the frame placed directly on the rear axle. The axle will seat properly up against the upper lips of the trackends/dropouts. It's also much easier to walk the wheel back and hold its position for alignment with the weight of the frame firmly riding on the axle.
Besides, flipping the bike upside down to change wheels is for amateurs....
Besides, flipping the bike upside down to change wheels is for amateurs....
03-02-09, 11:34 AM
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03-02-09, 11:50 AM
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First, I flip the bike upsidedown (if I don't have a workstand) I put pressure between the tire and the seat tube, and then tighten down one nut about 30%. Then, I release pressure. If the wheel doesn't settle in a centered position, usually its close enough to flex it back to center without affecting anything, and then tighten down the other nut. Then I tighten both nuts to full torque.
Usually what happens is if I press the tire off the seattube with enough force to have a reasonably tight chain tension, theres enough loss in chain tension in this whole process to have a perfectly tensioned chain.
Usually what happens is if I press the tire off the seattube with enough force to have a reasonably tight chain tension, theres enough loss in chain tension in this whole process to have a perfectly tensioned chain.
