kilo tt : which parts to keep / swap?
#1
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kilo tt : which parts to keep / swap?
so i'm buying a (used) complete (stock) 2008 kilo tt and was planning on swapping out the stock crankset and wheels, and pedals w/ the sugino "rd" crankset, Mavic CXP22 wheels w/ formula hubs, and MKS road pedals that i have on my current conversion. don't know much about the components on the kilo, so for those that do: should i reconsider any of those changes and keep any of the stock parts? also, are there any other parts that i should definitely i consider replacing (ie. are less than less than great)?
#2
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There are plenty of threads on here about how crap the wheels are, so those I would say are a definite swap.
I don't think they come with pedals stock, at least bikesdirect lists pedals as N/A. You cant go wrong with MKS though so go for it.
My buddy just swapped out the wheels, kept the rest stock. It still rides smooth after months and months of abuse.
That's all I got.
I don't think they come with pedals stock, at least bikesdirect lists pedals as N/A. You cant go wrong with MKS though so go for it.
My buddy just swapped out the wheels, kept the rest stock. It still rides smooth after months and months of abuse.
That's all I got.
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ride and see what you like, dislike, and can afford to switch out! dont forget that its nicer than most even used and totally stock.
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The saddle and the wheels are craptastic.
The saddle is, of course, very personal so who knows; you might like it.
The saddle is, of course, very personal so who knows; you might like it.
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But, our experience is that the wheels hold up very well
if we had trouble with the wheels, I would have changed spec
however, as mid level wheels go; these we hear less about than many others
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^^The wheels are fine, but be careful with that rear hub. I stripped mine taking off the stock lockring/cog (and yes, I do know the lockring is reverse threaded; and yes, I was using the correct tools) about an hour after I got it. I had it checked out at a bike shop the next day and he said it was just a cheap hub, and that it wasn't surprising.
#8
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^^The wheels are fine, but be careful with that rear hub. I stripped mine taking off the stock lockring/cog (and yes, I do know the lockring is reverse threaded; and yes, I was using the correct tools) about an hour after I got it. I had it checked out at a bike shop the next day and he said it was just a cheap hub, and that it wasn't surprising.
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I changed:
1) stem because it was too long
2) rear wheel, because I stripped the hub
3) cog to an odd # cog for more skid patches
4) chainring to a smaller chainring for lower GI
I kind of got used to the saddle. I also didn't find anything wrong with the cranks or pedal setup, but honestly I haven't tried anything else to compare.
1) stem because it was too long
2) rear wheel, because I stripped the hub
3) cog to an odd # cog for more skid patches
4) chainring to a smaller chainring for lower GI
I kind of got used to the saddle. I also didn't find anything wrong with the cranks or pedal setup, but honestly I haven't tried anything else to compare.
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the stem and bars SUCK SUCK SUCK. get a stem/bar combo with less flex if you plan on riding hard
#13
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cool thanx for all the suggestions..
slightly off topic, but are there any markings / tell tale signs on the frames that indicate what year they are? i thought i was getting a 2008 (which i wanted for the dims/geo), but it looks like the dims/geo of the bike i just picked up are that of a 2009.
slightly off topic, but are there any markings / tell tale signs on the frames that indicate what year they are? i thought i was getting a 2008 (which i wanted for the dims/geo), but it looks like the dims/geo of the bike i just picked up are that of a 2009.
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the sugino rd isn't really considered an upgrade, plus i'd take the stock truvativ over the sugino rd any day.
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I've replaced the wheels, bar, pedals/clips and cog and it rides really well after about 3-4 months. I've been told that the bottom bracket/crankset will need replacing soon, though.
#17
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Seriously...why not just buy a different bike?
Swapping out costs money.
Just take the cost of all of your proposed swaps. Then add 20% to that (because we all estimate too low when trying to buy and too high when trying to sell). That would be your total cost of ownership of your new, upgraded bike. Now look for a new complete bike that costs around that much.
Swapping out costs money.
Just take the cost of all of your proposed swaps. Then add 20% to that (because we all estimate too low when trying to buy and too high when trying to sell). That would be your total cost of ownership of your new, upgraded bike. Now look for a new complete bike that costs around that much.
Last edited by blujosh; 03-13-09 at 03:57 AM.
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Seriously...why not just buy a different bike?
Swapping out costs money.
Just take the cost of all of your proposed swaps. Then add 20% to that (because we all estimate too low when trying to buy and too high when trying to sell). That would be your total cost of ownership of your new, upgraded bike. Now look for a new complete bike that costs around that much.
Swapping out costs money.
Just take the cost of all of your proposed swaps. Then add 20% to that (because we all estimate too low when trying to buy and too high when trying to sell). That would be your total cost of ownership of your new, upgraded bike. Now look for a new complete bike that costs around that much.
OP, if you have the parts already, switch out what you like. if not, wait till it breaks, it's not like the stock kilo is unrideable by any means...
#19
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I nearly immediately changed out my pedals, saddle, and bars (and really the only problems with the pedals are the clips; the pedals themselves are fine for a generic pedal.) The stem and wheels are fine, again for generic components. Some people have complained of creaking bottom brackets, but I never experienced that.
And now my son rides on the the wheels, stem, and pedals. The generic components on the KiloTT aren't as bad as the rep they've earned around here.
But yeah, I'd immediately ditch at least the pedals, saddle, and bars.
And now my son rides on the the wheels, stem, and pedals. The generic components on the KiloTT aren't as bad as the rep they've earned around here.
But yeah, I'd immediately ditch at least the pedals, saddle, and bars.
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cool thanx for all the suggestions..
slightly off topic, but are there any markings / tell tale signs on the frames that indicate what year they are? i thought i was getting a 2008 (which i wanted for the dims/geo), but it looks like the dims/geo of the bike i just picked up are that of a 2009.
slightly off topic, but are there any markings / tell tale signs on the frames that indicate what year they are? i thought i was getting a 2008 (which i wanted for the dims/geo), but it looks like the dims/geo of the bike i just picked up are that of a 2009.
#21
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so anyone,,, know how to tell on the frame by markings/stamps etc?
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I nearly immediately changed out my pedals, saddle, and bars (and really the only problems with the pedals are the clips; the pedals themselves are fine for a generic pedal.) The stem and wheels are fine, again for generic components. Some people have complained of creaking bottom brackets, but I never experienced that.
And now my son rides on the the wheels, stem, and pedals. The generic components on the KiloTT aren't as bad as the rep they've earned around here.
But yeah, I'd immediately ditch at least the pedals, saddle, and bars.
And now my son rides on the the wheels, stem, and pedals. The generic components on the KiloTT aren't as bad as the rep they've earned around here.
But yeah, I'd immediately ditch at least the pedals, saddle, and bars.
#23
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I was wondering the same thing about my 09 Schwinn Madison... is there anything worth getting rid of? Cost me 630 and so far it feels pretty sturdy, but I'm not WAY into bikes (yet) so I don't really know....
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I have had a kilo for two years now and all that changed was a new saddle, new tires (kept stock tires for front wheel, got 25 for the rear) and I threw on a front brake and fenders...I am going to swap the handlebars and chainring pretty soon, but you know what they say, if it ain't broke don't fix it...