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  1. #1
    _____________° blujosh's Avatar
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    kilo tt : which parts to keep / swap?

    so i'm buying a (used) complete (stock) 2008 kilo tt and was planning on swapping out the stock crankset and wheels, and pedals w/ the sugino "rd" crankset, Mavic CXP22 wheels w/ formula hubs, and MKS road pedals that i have on my current conversion. don't know much about the components on the kilo, so for those that do: should i reconsider any of those changes and keep any of the stock parts? also, are there any other parts that i should definitely i consider replacing (ie. are less than less than great)?

  2. #2
    ∞mpg SpaceFace's Avatar
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    There are plenty of threads on here about how crap the wheels are, so those I would say are a definite swap.

    I don't think they come with pedals stock, at least bikesdirect lists pedals as N/A. You cant go wrong with MKS though so go for it.

    My buddy just swapped out the wheels, kept the rest stock. It still rides smooth after months and months of abuse.

    That's all I got.

  3. #3
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    The only things I didn't like about the stock Kilo were the saddle and the pedals.

  4. #4
    * adriano's Avatar
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    ride and see what you like, dislike, and can afford to switch out! dont forget that its nicer than most even used and totally stock.

  5. #5
    Senior Member franknstein's Avatar
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    The saddle and the wheels are craptastic.

    The saddle is, of course, very personal so who knows; you might like it.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by franknstein View Post
    The saddle and the wheels are craptastic.

    The saddle is, of course, very personal so who knows; you might like it.
    As you point out - all fannies are different

    But, our experience is that the wheels hold up very well
    if we had trouble with the wheels, I would have changed spec
    however, as mid level wheels go; these we hear less about than many others
    http://www.bikesdirect.com

    "First they ignore you, then they ridicule you, then they fight you, then you win." ľ Mahatma Gandhi

  7. #7
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    ^^The wheels are fine, but be careful with that rear hub. I stripped mine taking off the stock lockring/cog (and yes, I do know the lockring is reverse threaded; and yes, I was using the correct tools) about an hour after I got it. I had it checked out at a bike shop the next day and he said it was just a cheap hub, and that it wasn't surprising.

  8. #8
    Senior Member ZiP0082's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xsnakobx View Post
    ^^The wheels are fine, but be careful with that rear hub. I stripped mine taking off the stock lockring/cog (and yes, I do know the lockring is reverse threaded; and yes, I was using the correct tools) about an hour after I got it. I had it checked out at a bike shop the next day and he said it was just a cheap hub, and that it wasn't surprising.
    +1. I've been very happy with CXP22s though (that the OP mentioned)

  9. #9
    What? xxxfattonyxxx's Avatar
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    Rode mine for 5 miles, already got a new saddle
    "You have enemies? Good. That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life. ." - Winston Churchill
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    Senior Member grymg's Avatar
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    I changed:
    1) stem because it was too long
    2) rear wheel, because I stripped the hub
    3) cog to an odd # cog for more skid patches
    4) chainring to a smaller chainring for lower GI

    I kind of got used to the saddle. I also didn't find anything wrong with the cranks or pedal setup, but honestly I haven't tried anything else to compare.

  11. #11
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    the stem and bars SUCK SUCK SUCK. get a stem/bar combo with less flex if you plan on riding hard

  12. #12
    on Baby Charlie Concept~ muckymucky's Avatar
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    the seatpost is begging to be swapped~

  13. #13
    _____________° blujosh's Avatar
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    cool thanx for all the suggestions..

    slightly off topic, but are there any markings / tell tale signs on the frames that indicate what year they are? i thought i was getting a 2008 (which i wanted for the dims/geo), but it looks like the dims/geo of the bike i just picked up are that of a 2009.

  14. #14
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    the sugino rd isn't really considered an upgrade, plus i'd take the stock truvativ over the sugino rd any day.
    i won't deny it i'm a straight ridah

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    Quote Originally Posted by muckymucky View Post
    the seatpost is begging to be swapped~
    i agree, but as of now, the seatpost and headset are the only stock parts on my kilo. i guess it's just lower down my priority list.
    i won't deny it i'm a straight ridah

  16. #16
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    I've replaced the wheels, bar, pedals/clips and cog and it rides really well after about 3-4 months. I've been told that the bottom bracket/crankset will need replacing soon, though.

  17. #17
    _____________° blujosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    Seriously...why not just buy a different bike?

    Swapping out costs money.

    Just take the cost of all of your proposed swaps. Then add 20% to that (because we all estimate too low when trying to buy and too high when trying to sell). That would be your total cost of ownership of your new, upgraded bike. Now look for a new complete bike that costs around that much.
    because i just bought a complete bike (used) for close to the cost of just the frameset of the same bike (new), and i already have the components i mentioned sitting around. was trying to figure out which of those swaps makes sense. and if i did buy a different complete bike, i would undoubtly swap parts of that bike out over time. i doubt i will ever find a complete bike where i am completely satisfied w/ the entire build for the duration of my ownership of it. i would say the same is true for most people on this forum.
    Last edited by blujosh; 03-13-09 at 03:57 AM.

  18. #18
    íSenor Member! time bandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    Seriously...why not just buy a different bike?

    Swapping out costs money.

    Just take the cost of all of your proposed swaps. Then add 20% to that (because we all estimate too low when trying to buy and too high when trying to sell). That would be your total cost of ownership of your new, upgraded bike. Now look for a new complete bike that costs around that much.
    you should really read the OP before saying this kind of stuff.

    OP, if you have the parts already, switch out what you like. if not, wait till it breaks, it's not like the stock kilo is unrideable by any means...

  19. #19
    Senior Member iamtim's Avatar
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    I nearly immediately changed out my pedals, saddle, and bars (and really the only problems with the pedals are the clips; the pedals themselves are fine for a generic pedal.) The stem and wheels are fine, again for generic components. Some people have complained of creaking bottom brackets, but I never experienced that.

    And now my son rides on the the wheels, stem, and pedals. The generic components on the KiloTT aren't as bad as the rep they've earned around here.

    But yeah, I'd immediately ditch at least the pedals, saddle, and bars.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by blujosh View Post
    cool thanx for all the suggestions..

    slightly off topic, but are there any markings / tell tale signs on the frames that indicate what year they are? i thought i was getting a 2008 (which i wanted for the dims/geo), but it looks like the dims/geo of the bike i just picked up are that of a 2009.
    I'm pretty sure the geometry of the different years is pretty gosh darn close. Remember, though, that the geometry changes a little on each size of bike too.

  21. #21
    _____________° blujosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xsnakobx View Post
    I'm pretty sure the geometry of the different years is pretty gosh darn close. Remember, though, that the geometry changes a little on each size of bike too.
    AFAIK, the top tube between the 2008 and 2009 for the 50cm size differs by 12mm (535 for 2008 and 523 for 2009), which is what i cared about most...

    so anyone,,, know how to tell on the frame by markings/stamps etc?

  22. #22
    Loving Fixed Riding! DIRT BOY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamtim View Post
    I nearly immediately changed out my pedals, saddle, and bars (and really the only problems with the pedals are the clips; the pedals themselves are fine for a generic pedal.) The stem and wheels are fine, again for generic components. Some people have complained of creaking bottom brackets, but I never experienced that.

    And now my son rides on the the wheels, stem, and pedals. The generic components on the KiloTT aren't as bad as the rep they've earned around here.

    But yeah, I'd immediately ditch at least the pedals, saddle, and bars.
    The BB crerak due to lack of grease form the factory. Monkeys put these together. At least my Dawes SST and 4 Kilo TT I have broken down.
    DIRT BOY

  23. #23
    _____________° blujosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tFUnK View Post
    the sugino rd isn't really considered an upgrade, plus i'd take the stock truvativ over the sugino rd any day.
    are the truvativ's touros that much better than the sugino rd's? i don't know enough about them to make that call? anyone else have opinions on that?

  24. #24
    Senior Member mandiejackson's Avatar
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    I was wondering the same thing about my 09 Schwinn Madison... is there anything worth getting rid of? Cost me 630 and so far it feels pretty sturdy, but I'm not WAY into bikes (yet) so I don't really know....
    teh maispayce
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    Quote Originally Posted by peabodypride View Post
    Those straps look more saggy than my 70 year-old middle school principle's boobs.

  25. #25
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    I have had a kilo for two years now and all that changed was a new saddle, new tires (kept stock tires for front wheel, got 25 for the rear) and I threw on a front brake and fenders...I am going to swap the handlebars and chainring pretty soon, but you know what they say, if it ain't broke don't fix it...

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