Last edited by HasteTheMoment; 03-26-09 at 11:19 PM.
why do you need track geo?
Maybe look into alien.
if you like the slanted top tube(i assume slanted towards the stem, people who like the looks of fixed gears don't seem to like the slanted geo road bikes) check out the pursuit frame from affinity cycles.
Aliens are going to have some of the tightest track geo around.
I second the Affinitys for a pursuit frame.
You want something with the "look of a real track bike" but you don't know what makes a frame's geometry "real track geometry". Do your damn homework.
$h!t. If you're going for the look of a "real track bike" get a BMC track machine or a LOOK frame. At least you won't be half assing it when you're riding your "real track bike" around your neighborhood.
I don't think anyone is going to be able to eyeball the difference between a kilo frame and a true track geometry with similar shape and diameter tubes. track geo is usually not the most comfortable for the long haul either. This last part is just based off of what i've heard, I've only ridden road frames (comfy) and my shogun kaze (which goes to show people who dream to commute on vintage time trial bikes have probably never ridden one. I commute on it occasionally, but it's no where near as comfortable as a regular bike. everyday use would be brutal)
Right on. It's critical to ensure you buy the right kind of street cred when you get your bike. You can often see many sad cases of people who didn't buy the right kind of bike trying to establish some kind of credibility by riding hard and demonstrating proper bike handling skills. This pursuit is of course futile, which makes it all the more sad. Like tilting at windmills really.
What you really want to do is look into something that bone stock looks almost unrideable and combine it with something with a deep drop such as nitto 123s (bonus cred awarded for being NJS certified). If you can decrease your crank length and raise your seat up further you'll be even better off.
"I think it’s dumb when you take the inherently fun like riding bikes and singing songs and say they’re not for everyone as if for your whole life you were cool as $h!t."
-Bomb the Music Industry!
i haven't ridden a kilo, but i've messed around on my roomie's clockwork. It seems good enough, and i'm not sure if a fix for "more aggressive" (which is so vague that I'm really guessing you mean you want a bike that's more twitchy) would be going for a more expensive frame with more track geo.
how are you going to be riding this? are you actually going to be using it or is this a bike you drive to starbucks and walk around (walking it of course to show that it's fixed). you can drop the coin on a new frame if you want. you also may find you'll get the twitchiness you desire with lighter wheels or a 650c front. the difference of the 1 degree in the seat tube can probably be approximated by sliding your saddle forward an inch.
Last edited by HasteTheMoment; 03-26-09 at 11:20 PM.
Even though this kinda feels like a troll post, folks up in here get bent out of shape real fast. Hopefully I can offer something more productive.
Your Kilo is fine. It's a great frame. And it would be almost impossible to tell the difference in performance between that and a "true" track frame. However, it's your money and you can do whatever you want. That said, I would highly advise against getting a more aggressive pursuit-type frame if you're using it on the street. Your shoulders, arms, neck and back will get sore and tired very quickly. And anyone who knows a lick about bikes is going to sneer at you.
lol, "ok." You can delete posts, you know.
unless you're riding really hardcore i wouldn't buy just for the slight change in geo since anything in the 300 dollar range is basically the same if it's steel. if you want cheap and something that'll probably feel more "aggressive" go with the leader. of course you should find a friend or something with some different frames and try it out for yourself. you may find this more aggressive geo is not what you're looking for.
thanks, if you dont mind me asking, how is a bareknuckle worth 600 more than a kilo? Looks to be the same weight...same basic design other than fork..
wow, i didn't know how much they went for... a local guy has been trying to sell his frame (new, wrapped up in bubble wrap) for $375-400. so i figured they were about 450 new. guess that makes me the noob. I haven't ridden one, but the geometry differences and workmanship supposedly make it a really nice frame. I would have built up with this frame that this guy was selling, but my budget for a complete bike was only about 450...
"track geometry" gets talked about so much here, but in reality it's a range of measurements. some, like BMC's track machine, have a 73 degree head tube, while others are 74 or 75. people frequently talk about low-rake track forks, while many track frames come with a 40mm rake fork.
especially for a street bike, the things you're likely to notice are a high BB and a short wheelbase.