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New wheels, crankset, bars, pedals - Good/Bad upgrades?

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New wheels, crankset, bars, pedals - Good/Bad upgrades?

Old 05-14-09, 12:47 PM
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New wheels, crankset, bars, pedals - Good/Bad upgrades?

So I got my '09 C-dale Capo (Jet Black/white scheme) last Saturday and love it. Did 12.4 miles yesterday with a friend and had a blast. I am choosing to upgrade some components for looks, as well as comfort and performance.

I was able to pick up a FSA Carbon Pro Track Crankset 172.5mm for $140 on ebay. It was either these or the Miche Advanced Track Crankset. I don't do any skids or much backpedaling so I should be ok (something about the cranks becoming loose or sloppy from such). The chainring on the FSA cranks is a 49t so I think that might need to be replaced. Currently I am running a 42t chainring. The stock cranks on the Capo are wierd TruVativ 4 bolt cranks. They look OK, but don't do it for me.



https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=370161238058

For the bottom bracket I went with a Crank Brothers Cyan 68 x108mm ISIS Bottom Bracket. Bottom brackets confuse my limited knowledge so hopefully this will work.



https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=1216

Then I picked up some MKS GR-9 pedals in black with Steel Clips and Leather Straps. My stock pedals leave a bit to be desired.



https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300308035388

Also picked up some DEDA Crono Nero Bullhorn bars as well as Fizik Red and Black bar tape. Something about bullhorn bars I love!



https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=6852

I also picked up some tools that I apparently need.

- Park Tool BBT-18 BB tool f 8-Notch ISIS BB cups
- Park Tool CCP-4 Crank puller for splined bottom brackets
- Hozan Lockring Tool
- Wheels Manufacturing Chainwhip 1/8"

I still need to get some marine grease, Cog (the FSA cranks use a 1/2" x 1/8" chain and the chain on my bike now is a KMC 8 Speed which I belive is 3/32nd), and wheels.

For wheels I am thinking of building these:

DT Swiss RR1.2 Aero wheels in Black
Paul Hubs
DT Swiss black spokes w/ black nipples

I haven't chosen the tires yet.

What do you think? Are these items an upgrade/downgrade from what I am using now? I know the wheels are much better than the stockers on it, but I am more wondering about the crank/bb setup I chose.

My end goal is for my bike to look awesome while having the performance to back it up. I only use the bike for riding around the city. No racing/velodome or anything.
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Old 05-14-09, 12:54 PM
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sounds like a nice project coming together. good parts and give us a pic when its all done
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Old 05-14-09, 08:10 PM
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Maybe double straps instead of singles? or two singles?
looks good!
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Old 05-14-09, 08:34 PM
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All looks good (upgrade) to me. I just bought the exact bike (Black & White Capo) and have upgraded the crankset, wheels, handlebars and saddle already. I would keep the 49t chainring and rock something like a 17t or 18t cog in the back. That 42/17 gearing that came stock was way too low for me. Those Truvativ cranks belong on a mountain bike. I'm going to use them on a build for one of my daughters. I would also go clipless on the pedals, but that is only if you already ride clipless now. Good luck with the build and like I said before hit me up if you have any questions swapping the cranks. Is that bb width (108mm) what FSA recommends for a 42ish chainline? Also I assume you already confirmed the FSA cranks need an ISIS bb.

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Old 05-14-09, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by xB_Nutt
All looks good (upgrade) to me. I just bought the exact bike (Black & White Capo) and have upgraded the crankset, wheels, handlebars and saddle already. I would keep the 49t chainring and rock something like a 17t or 18t cog in the back. That 42/17 gearing that came stock was way too low for me. Those Truvativ cranks belong on a mountain bike. I'm going to use them on a build for one of my daughters. I would also go clipless on the pedals, but that is only if you already ride clipless now. Good luck with the build and like I said before hit me up if you have any questions swapping the cranks. Is that bb width (108mm) what FSA recommends for a 42ish chainline? Also I assume you already confirmed the FSA cranks need an ISIS bb.

I plan to pick up a cog in a 17t or 18t to see if that is better. As is it was putting a lot of pressure on my knees up hills. Never gone clipless so I am going to pass on that for now. The BB width is what every site says to use on those FSA cranks and they do require the ISIS bb.

You have removed the Truativ cranks already so I have a question. Once I remove the allen head bolts that screw the crank arms into the bb, are these two tools the correct ones to allow me to remove the stock crank arms and the bb?

https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...roducts_id=797
https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...roducts_id=766
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Old 05-14-09, 10:05 PM
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Get the Omnium's, they're stiffer and lighter than those Carbon Pro's -- the bad Carbon FSA Tracks are discontinued which seems to be what you're referencing (the Vigorelli's I believe). You can find them with a BB for 155 shipped. The pedals are fine.

Wheels seem a bit too much. Paul hubs are nice, but frankly over-priced. You'd be fine with something like HF D/A to CXP-33's or even a lower-end like Miche to Open Pro's. The DT Swiss RR rims (1.2 and R520) are both nice, 30mm deep, rims.
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Old 05-14-09, 10:23 PM
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Well I already ordered the Carbon Pros and BB. The Vigorelli's are what I read that were pretty bad.

On Ben's Cycle website I am trying to find a chain tool and there are a few different ones.

Will this one work fine?

https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...roducts_id=769
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Old 05-14-09, 10:30 PM
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That chain tool works fine.
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Old 05-14-09, 10:34 PM
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Chain tool is fine. When buying a whip, you'll likely need to switch the chain to 1/8"
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Old 05-14-09, 10:42 PM
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I did a search on the FSA Carbon Pro's, and the version with an aluminum star gets horrible reviews; whereas, people seem to have a good opinion of the all-carbon version.

The original poster might not back pedal much, now, but I think most riders start doing it more and more the longer they ride.

NOT back pedaling in order to compensate for the inadequacy of the crank seems like a double curse, to me.

I'd just ride these cranks until I felt them deteriorating, and then I'd get some real cranks.

Regarding the wheels, I don't get the aero thing.

I like the RR 1.1 rims better, for their lightness.

I find that lighter rims accelerate and decelerate better than heavy rims.

As for tires, I find that a Conti 4 Seasons in front and a Conti Gatorskin in back gives me the best performance and flat-resistance for the weight and the money.

Schwalbe Ultremo tires handle better than the Contis, weigh less, have lower rolling-resistance and have the same flat resistance, but they cut a little more easily.

Still, I get 2-3000 miles out of Ultremos, and they look really nice on a black, white or grey bike.
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Old 05-14-09, 10:50 PM
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Thanks Ken! I wanted the all carbon version, but at $150 more than the ones I purchased I'll test these out first. I can always get new cranks later on as you said. If worse came to worse and these got worn out I can swap back to the stock cranks while I order up a set of the full carbon FSAs.

If somebody can confirm that in post #6 those are the correct tools to remove the stock cranks/bb that would be awesome. I have a bunch of items in my cart at Ben's Cycles that I want to place an order for. I would hate to order and then find out I ordered the wrong tool.

- Sorry for any questions that seem obvious. I never knew there were so many options for bb, cranksets, tools, etc. This is all new to me.

I really like the looks of the aero wheels over the 1.1 rims. But if they are significantly lighter I will consider those. I'll take a look at those tire options too to figure out what I will run.
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Old 05-14-09, 11:38 PM
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Damn.....That's some really expensive stuff for someone that's just getting into it.

If you run out of stuff to buy for yourself, I could use a new saddle

All in all.....Should be a nice ride. But I agree. Sell those FSA cranks back and get some Omniums. Definately worth it.
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Old 05-15-09, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jamesbernatchez
I plan to pick up a cog in a 17t or 18t to see if that is better. As is it was putting a lot of pressure on my knees up hills. Never gone clipless so I am going to pass on that for now. The BB width is what every site says to use on those FSA cranks and they do require the ISIS bb.

You have removed the Truativ cranks already so I have a question. Once I remove the allen head bolts that screw the crank arms into the bb, are these two tools the correct ones to allow me to remove the stock crank arms and the bb?

https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...roducts_id=797
https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...roducts_id=766
Those look perfect. I used a regular square taper crank puller so the one you have will just be a bonus.

Don't know if you mentioned it yet, but you definitely will need a new chain since the stock one will be too short with that chain ring, plus it is an 8 speed (narrow) chain. How wide is your FSA chainring? Are you getting a 1/8" or 3/32" cog?
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Last edited by xB_Nutt; 05-15-09 at 04:18 AM.
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Old 05-15-09, 06:02 AM
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Thanks Nutt. I am getting a KMC 410 chain in 1/8" as well as a Milwaukee Bike Co 18t 1/8" cog. Not sure how wide the chainring is.
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Old 05-16-09, 01:48 PM
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I'd probably just leave the bike alone until parts started breaking, but whatever.. have fun!
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