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Thread: Drive Trains

  1. #1
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    Drive Trains

    I heard that if you are going to make a change to any part of the drive train, such as a new chain or free wheel, that you should change out everything...chain ring, chain and free wheel all at the same time. Thoughts?
    Spot Brand Single Speed
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  2. #2
    ... goatmeal's Avatar
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    I personally don't change everything out, I just slap a new chain on my existing set up. Considering how fast I seem to go through chains, it would be too expensive to replace all other components, and I don't know if I would notice that much of a difference.

    Phil

  3. #3
    Senior Member TimArchy's Avatar
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    From what I've heard, if you're just doing the chain, just do the chain. If you're getting a new chainring or cog/freewheel, get a new chain as well. Something about old chains putting greater wear on new cogs/rings.

    tim
    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Frank
    I will derive power from their cries of despair. My crank a speedy dervish, spinning and spinning through the darkest night that anyone with the audacity to try and suck my wheel will ever see...

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    Team Beer Cynikal's Avatar
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    I've heard this as well. I doubt it would apply to fixies or SS's. From what I know a new chain on well worn parts causes shifting problems, not an issue for us. I still its a ploy to spend more on parts you don't need.


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  5. #5
    Senior Member dabern's Avatar
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    It can be a problem on fixed if the old chain is extremely worn...as a chain wears it will also wear cogs/chainrings to a lesser degree and change the profile of the gaps between chainring/cog teeth, making them deeper...then new chain will try to "climb" up the worn teeth, possibly resulting in unexpected and ugly slippage. If you swap out old chains on a reasonable schedule then I would imagine you could get 3 or 4 chains worth of wear out of a chainring/cog combo before they would also need to be replaced.
    Rock Lobster

  6. #6
    無くなった HereNT's Avatar
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    I just replace the chain when it starts looking a little too rusty or starts feeling 'weak' - I don't know why, but I just get paranoid about it sometimes. I need to go back to one of those nice 3/8" wide track chains, but need to get a new chain tool first I probably do 3 or 4 chains a year.

    I almost never change the chainring on my bikes, but do change the back cog out a couple of times a year. It probably makes a difference what cog you buy, too. I've got a cheap 18t on my winter rim that is TOTALLY bent up. But the new DuraAce 16t I put on my new rim looks like it will last a long, long time.

    Basically, change it when it looks like it needs to be changed, I guess....

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