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  1. #1
    sf hills are fun
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    How do you get your fork threaded?

    Does anyone know how or where you can get a 1 inch threadless fork threaded?

  2. #2
    moving target c0urt's Avatar
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    and a bike ship, they make a tool for it
    how to tape your bars http://www.flickr.com/photos/89572419@N00/sets/72157629279270681/

  3. #3
    manonthemoon Triple8Sol's Avatar
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  4. #4
    cs1
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    Quote Originally Posted by c0urt View Post
    and a bike ship, they make a tool for it
    The tool they use is to chase an existing thread not cut a new one. New threads should always be done on a lathe. Jack Franklin of Franklin Frame can do it. It isn't cheap but the results won't kill you.

    http://home.windstream.net/franklinframe/
    1999 Waterford RSE-11, 1995 Waterford 1200, 1989 Specialized Rockhopper Comp
    1989 Raleigh Technium, 1989 Schwinn Traveler, 1986 Specialized Rockhopper
    1984 Specialized Stumpjumper, 1986 Specialized Stumpjumper and just way too many projects to list.

  5. #5
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    I thought I would attached my question to this thread instead of starting a new one. I was considering buying this frame (http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1084) which has a partially threaded fork but did not know how expensive or easy it would be to finish threading it. Is this something that can be done relatively cheaply at most bike shops?

  6. #6
    cs1
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikennett View Post
    I thought I would attached my question to this thread instead of starting a new one. I was considering buying this frame (http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1084) which has a partially threaded fork but did not know how expensive or easy it would be to finish threading it. Is this something that can be done relatively cheaply at most bike shops?
    If the fork already is threaded then a die will work. If the fork is unthreaded you really need to use a lathe. Good luck
    1999 Waterford RSE-11, 1995 Waterford 1200, 1989 Specialized Rockhopper Comp
    1989 Raleigh Technium, 1989 Schwinn Traveler, 1986 Specialized Rockhopper
    1984 Specialized Stumpjumper, 1986 Specialized Stumpjumper and just way too many projects to list.

  7. #7
    Paste Taster Retem's Avatar
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    first you need to make sure that the inside diameter of you steerer is the right size for a quill then you need to make sure it isn't butted

    case one you thread it and you can't put a quill in
    case two you thread it get a quill in and notice you have a tight spot when you turn the bars
    you just ruptured or bulged you steerer
    I am dyslexic so bear with my posts.... [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  8. #8
    Senior Member TimArchy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikennett View Post
    I thought I would attached my question to this thread instead of starting a new one. I was considering buying this frame (http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1084) which has a partially threaded fork but did not know how expensive or easy it would be to finish threading it. Is this something that can be done relatively cheaply at most bike shops?
    Are you planning on using the fork on a different bike?

    Many shops have a tool with will clean or re-thread an already threaded fork. This could be used to cut new threads but it not what the tool was designed for. It could easily dull the tool if done too often and could damage the tool if great care is not taken. It is a very slow procedure that requires skill and experience. And after the tool no longer has old threads to guide it, there is no guarantee that the new threads will even be straight. Finally, fork threads are generally rolled, not cut. Cut threads are not as smooth and are more susceptible to failure.

    Given all these facts, many shops will not cut more than a few new threads. And even when they do that, they charge a hefty price and don't necessarily guarantee the results.
    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Frank
    I will derive power from their cries of despair. My crank a speedy dervish, spinning and spinning through the darkest night that anyone with the audacity to try and suck my wheel will ever see...

  9. #9
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    well i got my fork cut and threaded. its cost me $30 at my LBS. you just got to call around, the 4th shop i called said they can and were willing to do it. some shops are against doing that type of work, cuz if you get injured from a broken fork that they did, thats a law suit they want to avoid.

  10. #10
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    very few threadless forks are intended to be threaded...i'd wager virtually none. you can't just assume it's possible.

    if it's an aluminum steerer, forget it. if it's steel, it has to be thick enough that you can remove 1/2 the material without compromising strength. and if it was originally threadless, wall thicknesses were likely reduced beyond the (safe) ability to cut threads...after all, it's a threadless fork. even extending the threads on a genuine threaded steerer can be dicey.

    blindguy, i hope you don't also become toothlessguy when the steerer fails. there's a damn good reason most shops won't do the work. the stupidity evidenced in SSFG never fails to astound me.

  11. #11
    Senior Member sweatpants's Avatar
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    1" threaded forks are pretty common. Wouldn't it be safer to just get one you can afford?

  12. #12
    hateful little monkey jim-bob's Avatar
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    That's awesome. "3 shops said it was unsafe and they wouldn't do it, so I kept calling around until I found a shop that would!"

  13. #13
    Paste Taster Retem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dookie View Post
    blindguy, i hope you don't also become toothlessguy when the steerer fails. there's a damn good reason most shops won't do the work. the stupidity evidenced in SSFG never fails to astound me.
    I tried to talk reason with him hopefully he wears a fullface helmet and he won't become vegitable guy when the steerer fails

    Quote Originally Posted by jim-bob View Post
    That's awesome. "3 shops said it was unsafe and they wouldn't do it, so I kept calling around until I found a shop that would!"
    yet another example of Darwinian love for the fixed gear hobby

    the cowboys here in sac think they can slice and dice thru traffic without helmets or lights
    I am dyslexic so bear with my posts.... [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  14. #14
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dookie View Post
    if it's steel, it has to be thick enough that you can remove 1/2 the material without compromising strength.
    Remember, you will have a stem inserted into the steer tube which will reinforce whatever you removed during threading.

  15. #15
    Paste Taster Retem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    Remember, you will have a stem inserted into the steer tube which will reinforce whatever you removed during threading.
    you haven't seen a ruptured steerer before have you??
    yup a quill wedge can do that
    I am dyslexic so bear with my posts.... [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  16. #16
    on your left.
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    I don't even want to know why you want to do this. but it's a REALLY bad idea.
    Quote Originally Posted by caloso View Post
    I learned this the hard way. They say that experience is the best teacher, but I would have been preferred to just read about it on the internet.

  17. #17
    Paste Taster Retem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nahh View Post
    I don't even want to know why you did this. but it's a REALLY bad idea.
    fixed
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  18. #18
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retem View Post
    you haven't seen a ruptured steerer before have you??
    yup a quill wedge can do that
    The wedge should be below the threaded portion. If you're cutting the threads yourself, there's no point in going any further than you absolutely need -- a couple cm in total is plenty.

  19. #19
    Paste Taster Retem's Avatar
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    I wasn't talking about the threads I was talking about a butted light weight steerer made for threadless not threaded

    you see the over all wall thickness can be thinner with threadless because of the way the stem clamps one
    but with a quill you need a thicker tube to handle the single point at which pressure is applied
    I am dyslexic so bear with my posts.... [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  20. #20
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retem View Post
    I wasn't talking about the threads I was talking about a butted light weight steerer made for threadless not threaded

    you see the over all wall thickness can be thinner with threadless because of the way the stem clamps one but with a quill you need a thicker tube to handle the single point at which pressure is applied
    1) Vintage threaded steer tubes are also butted.
    2) Since the OD diameter needs to remain constant for the headset parts to fit, the only way to get a thinner steer tube in a threadless steer tube would be to increase the ID, which means the quill stem wouldn't fit even without threads being cut. Is that the case?
    3) There is no "single point" of pressure with a properly fitted quill stem. The pressure is spread along the length of the stem insertion.
    4) The stem clamp at the top of a threadless stem represents another stress point, where reducing thickness would be unwise. Isn't that where the threads would have to be cut if you were to thread a threadless steer tube?

  21. #21
    Paste Taster Retem's Avatar
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    dude read 2 and 3 and realize my point

    they op had a threadless fork threaded get it
    I am dyslexic so bear with my posts.... [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  22. #22
    don't be so angry clancy98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    3) There is no "single point" of pressure with a properly fitted quill stem. The pressure is spread along the length of the stem insertion.
    no, it is spread along the point of expansion.

    Nothing makes the stem diameter at the top of the headtube bigger.
    Irregardless is not a word, and you do not sound more intelligent using it.

  23. #23
    senior tarckass B:H Pusher's Avatar
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    exactly why when i odered my frame from Affinity Cycles
    i asked for a fork that they would thread, but without the threading so when i got the headset i wanted i would know where to chop and thread for a good fit.
    Quote Originally Posted by wearyourtruth View Post
    in all fairness... one of those threads is actually about kitties.

  24. #24
    Senior Member TimArchy's Avatar
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    Why not just get a fork with pre-cut threads that start just below the top of the head tube. Then cut off the extra above where you want the lock nut to be. Thats how it's been done for 100 years. How would threading the steer tube yourself help out at all? If you don't overtighten your stem, even pressure in the threaded area will not cause damage.
    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Frank
    I will derive power from their cries of despair. My crank a speedy dervish, spinning and spinning through the darkest night that anyone with the audacity to try and suck my wheel will ever see...

  25. #25
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimArchy View Post
    Why not just get a fork with pre-cut threads that start just below the top of the head tube. Then cut off the extra above where you want the lock nut to be. Thats how it's been done for 100 years. How would threading the steer tube yourself help out at all? If you don't overtighten your stem, even pressure in the threaded area will not cause damage.
    Maybe the OP already has a 1" threadless fork he'd like to use.

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