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  1. #1
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    Schwinn world vs schwinn world tourist

    I'm looking to build my first fixie up from scratch. My budget is tiny so I'm between two pretty crappy frames, a mid to late 80's schwinn world vs a late 80's scwhinn world tour. Are either of this bikes considerably better or worse than the other fro a fixed gear build than the other? Are they essentially the same?

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    Here's a link to all the Schwinn catalogs from 1980 to 1990.
    http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1980_1990/index.html
    You might mean the World Tourist and World. Both frames are heavy and tough so you can jump off 2 foot high curbs if you want.

    IMO I would keep looking for a higher quality frame because for a few dollars more you can get a much nicer frame, Schwinn or other 80's lugged steel. Schwinns with Columbus Tenax tubing are a good value. I have a conversion from a 1988 Schwinn that is very nice.

  3. #3
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    Either will work just fine. A little on the heavy side by modern standards, but the frames are tough as heck.
    Quote Originally Posted by Santaria View Post
    because physics has more street cred than tarckstars.

  4. #4
    Team Water Andy_K's Avatar
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    How tiny is your budget? To do this right, it's not as cheap as you might think.

  5. #5
    Senior Member REMspeedwagon's Avatar
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    Yeah for a legit Schwinn fixed gear conversion you would need a complete lugged steel Schwinn with decent geometry, aka no Varsity boat one peice crank type ish. Buy a new 700c track wheelset, cog/lockring, chainring, chain, pedals/clips/straps, and tires.

    I like the World Sport and Le Tour, quite common and Panasonic-built.
    Also don't bother buying something left out in the rain for 20 or so years.
    Look for something well kept, be patient and try to grab one for $50 or so.
    (they're not really worth much more)


    You can do this with a budget of just under $300.
    null

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    How tiny is your budget? To do this right, it's not as cheap as you might think.
    Track cog = $15
    BB lockring = $3
    Spoke wrench = $5
    Loctite = $5
    +
    rotofix

    Just make sure you run a brake.
    Quote Originally Posted by Santaria View Post
    because physics has more street cred than tarckstars.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianjk View Post
    Track cog = $15
    BB lockring = $3
    Spoke wrench = $5
    Loctite = $5
    +
    rotofix
    You forgot:

    New tires = $25
    New tubes = $6
    New chain = $8
    New brake pads = $12
    New brake cables = $10
    New ball bearings to overhaul the bottom bracket = $3
    New ball bearings to overhaul the headset = $3
    Grease = $5

    (Unless of course you're paying for a bike that's already been restored, in which case the bike itself will probably have a $150 asking price.)

    There may also be a few other tools you need. This is assuming you don't care about stopping in the rain (because you can't do that with steel wheels) and that all the stock parts are basically usable.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    You forgot:

    New tires = $25
    New tubes = $6
    New chain = $8
    New brake pads = $12
    New brake cables = $10
    New ball bearings to overhaul the bottom bracket = $3
    New ball bearings to overhaul the headset = $3
    Grease = $5

    (Unless of course you're paying for a bike that's already been restored, in which case the bike itself will probably have a $150 asking price.)

    There may also be a few other tools you need. This is assuming you don't care about stopping in the rain (because you can't do that with steel wheels) and that all the stock parts are basically usable.

    I sometimes take my massive parts stash for granted... the little things do add up.
    Quote Originally Posted by Santaria View Post
    because physics has more street cred than tarckstars.

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