johnvanveen

hoping that pic link works.
Im thinking of making this into a fixed or ss, strait bars,
whats everyone think?
aprox cost of doing this?
any recomodations?
anyone also got idea on year/size?
i thiink its 70's or 80's
thanks Jvv

Ken Cox

I owned an early 1970's Raleigh Grand Prix in the early 1970's.

Does this bike have a lugged steel frame?

Is so, save all the original parts because the frame and whatever original parts still exist might have considerable value.

Not "retire young to the South of France" type of considerable value, but perhaps enough to buy a nice modern bike.

In the picture, though, it doesn't look lugged, and so it might not have any particular value.

In any event, converting it won't hurt it, I don't think.

loi

Looks like a 58cm-61 cm (correct me if i'm wrong) I ride a 58 and it looks a bit shorter than that. Converting isn't hard, it's just whether or not you want the optimum parts on it. You can keep the cranks, replace the chain and get a 3/32 cog to put on a 700c tire on the back. That'd be the cheapest way and damned simple. Or if you want to go hipster, go get some colored cranks and a 1/8th cog/crankset and chain, spoke cards and brightly colored grips or tape. Also, adding 5-10 stickers will increase your rep and will make you go 10x faster.

Good luck

dropspace

It looks lugged to me, if the seat tube says "carlton" you are in luck and have a 70's (to about 81 I think) UK made Raleigh. Also, you can tell if the headbadge says Nottingham and not ...of America

I have an '83 Raleigh Super Course. Nice bike, they were made in asia in '83 but its still a quality lugged reynolds 555 frame.

It's currently fixed and the only issue I have with it is that even with 165mm cranks the bb is really low. The 700c wheels drop it enough so that I skip the pedals a lot which makes me nervous.

loi

Wow, it's just the frame geometry thats effin you up. I used to have a sturdee frame that did that... you might have it just as a cruiser bike... unless you find some smaller cranks lol.

Shaman5667

I just picked up the same bike with the same idea, 'cept some one already had put the straight bar and cheesy brake levers on it from an x-mart mountain bike. would have loved to have found one with the original bars with bar-end shift levers and brake levers. Anyway....the serial # should be on the bottom of the bottom bracket. Somewhere on one of these forums was posted a page on how to interpret your S#. Mine was made in Worksop (Carlton) in Oct. of 1978. the first letter tells where it was made, the second what month, and the first number the year, the rest is the number yours was produced in that year. Yours looks slightly taller than mine, not sure what size mine is or where to measure. Heres a couple of pics, second one after i chopped 4" off of both sides of the bars.





Hope this will work for my first post....