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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 08-18-09, 02:10 PM   #1
golfer007
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In need of quick orange peel advice

Painting my gf's bike a dark purple color. The fork turned out flawless but the frame is giving me a rough time. I just now tried again for the third time to sand the final coat and get ready for one final coat of color before clear and it started to orange peel again in a few different spots.

I wet sand the orange peel spots along with the entire frame with 600 grit usually, spray down with Windex, wipe don with rag, let sit for about 30 minutes in the direct sun in about 80 degree weather. I hold the spray can about 7 8 inched away from the frame and make sure I continually move in a sweeping motion. WTF am I doing wrong? I am getting very upset because her bike has been apart over a month and I wan to get it back on the road. It's killing me. Please help.

After the first time the frame orange peeled last night, I put it inside my car and let it bake for an entire day to assure a hard finish before I wet sanded again. The first couple coats w/wet sanding were just fine. It would say the third coat of paint started to give me troubles.
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Old 08-18-09, 02:19 PM   #2
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Windex? That may be part of it. I usually use 90% alcohol or a specific automotive paint prep.
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Old 08-18-09, 02:25 PM   #3
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Also never, ever, ever, ever use a rag that has been used for something like buffing car wax, or even sat next to a rag that has been around wax/grease.
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Old 08-18-09, 02:26 PM   #4
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Well someone or something I read said use it and its fine. I have tried to use alcohol as well and it didnt turn out to great the same thing happened.
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Old 08-18-09, 02:28 PM   #5
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Also, thin coats (you can even soak the cans in hot tap water to thin the paint out even more).

A little orange peel is to be expected and can be rubbed/wet sanded out later.
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Old 08-18-09, 02:43 PM   #6
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just lay down the final coat, and wetsand to a high grit (1200). buff it and clear.
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Old 08-18-09, 04:30 PM   #7
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just lay down the final coat, and wetsand to a high grit (1200). buff it and clear.
I thought about doing this...I just wet sanded the entire frame, including the peeled spots with 600 grit. What should my next step be? Should I lay a final coat, buff, then clear?
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Old 08-18-09, 05:33 PM   #8
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usually its recommend to step up the sand paper at 200 grit intervals, but honestly this is a bike and not a car. I would say if you do a good smooth job you could jump from 600 -1000. and 1000-1600. Me being the way i am with paint i go every 200 grit intervals till 1600. I would go a step or two higher before the final coat ( wet sanding in between coats is important), and then after the final sand to 1600 and clear and buff the clear.
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Old 08-18-09, 06:27 PM   #9
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OK so can I just lay another coat, wet sand with 1200 and if it turn out, buff and clear? I already have a crap ton of time and stress into this bike, I just want to be done with it.
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Old 08-18-09, 06:51 PM   #10
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what your'e talking about is not orange peel


it's a reaction caused by oil based contaminants in the coat of paint...i would sand it down and repaint it...use a prep solvent to keep it clean between layers and ALWAYS clean it between layers
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Old 08-18-09, 08:25 PM   #11
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I am going to buff it out tomorrow during the day after it has had some time to bake and then clear it. I ope it turns out. Also, I just tried installing the front fork on the Weinmann DP18's and the Varsity forks are narrower at the very bottom of the ends and they open up to allow the wheel to sit. But I couldn't force it in. Does anyone have any ideas or know what to do for this problem?
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Old 08-18-09, 08:45 PM   #12
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if you are wet sanding between coats there should not be any contaminants... A little soap and water with the wet sanding and you should be fine. The devil of painting does lie within the prep work. From a clean base (wipe down with alcohol and then a good coat of primer), put down your first coat. After the first coat has had a day to dry in a dry place (such as your garage), wet sand to 1600 starting at 800 with a few drops of soap and water. Let it dry, lay down one more coat, rinse and repeat until you have enough coats of how every many you want to lay down. I would not use windex to wipe between coats, if you must use something use alcohol. The alcohol dries off and leaves no residue. Also do not use a regular towel or something of the sort to wipe between coats, use a new microfiber cloth. After all your coats, remember to wetsand then clear then buff and wax.
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Old 08-19-09, 12:02 AM   #13
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So when I wet sand, use a mix of soap and water? Also, I have been letting the sand paper basically sit immersed in water. Should I be doing something different? I really want to master this painting deal because I feel like I can come out with some pretty dang nice stuff with rattle cans.

When I am laying the first coat of priimer, I usually put a very thin coat on. Should I put a pretty thick coat on first ie. so it will cover everything? I think I need to be more patient when painting. I havent really rushed this bike because I have let it bake in my car a couple times and in my garage a couple other times as well. A writeup with pictures wouldbe awesome.
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Old 08-19-09, 09:01 PM   #14
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i wouldn't anything getting painted "bake" anywhere. It needs to be drying in a dry place but also at a reasonable temperature. Read the can of paint that you are using, it will tell you a temperature range. Also you want to put the primer on thick, but not too thick. You want it to cover everything, but not so thick that it drips. Google how to paint a car or something, many people have painted stuff before. Find a guide that works for you.
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