Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 79
  1. #1
    Yo!
    Yo! is offline
    Senior Member Yo!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    My Bikes
    Panasonic NJS Keirin x2, Level Professional, Bianchi CUSS, GT Pulse
    Posts
    1,047
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Sugino 75 stripped...

    I raced an alley cat in a downpour on Sunday.

    Went in to service my BB and the puller yanked all of the extraction threads on the drive side. I'm super bummed, as I bought these cranks 4 weeks ago. I'm almost wondering if I may be able to figure out some kind of warranty deal with these, but it's unlikely.

    So I'm needing a new drive side crankarm, 165mm, silver. If anyone has a lonely drive side, PM me.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    742
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Wow. How the heck did that happen? I'm an ersatz mechanic but I've never done that. Do tell. I promise to laugh WITH you.

  3. #3
    Yo!
    Yo! is offline
    Senior Member Yo!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    My Bikes
    Panasonic NJS Keirin x2, Level Professional, Bianchi CUSS, GT Pulse
    Posts
    1,047
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Using park ccp-2, the threads literally pulled out with the puller.

    So, I had the puller threaded in, and when I was backing it out to pull the crankarm, the puller walked out with the extraction threads. I've never done this to a crank arm before and it makes me question the quality of this set.

  4. #4
    * adriano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Baltimore
    My Bikes
    http://velospace.org/node/18951
    Posts
    6,890
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    you get what you pay for.

  5. #5
    Fresh Garbage hairnet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    10,907
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    get a sealed BB, no service needed.
    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    I'd rather ride a greasy bowling ball than one of those things.
    Bikerowave
    My Bikes

  6. #6
    worship satan. johnnytheboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    USA! USA! USA!!
    My Bikes
    all of them.
    Posts
    2,355
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ride it around without the crankarm bolt in it.
    it will eventually loosen.
    also, park makes a tool specifically for this (stripped crankarm threads.)
    the tool looks like a hex nut with threads and threads into the crankarm while recutting the threads.
    i know a certain shop in the dallas suburbs that has this exact tool.

    it's in a part of town east of downtown dallas that's known for the rock wall.
    http://www.pedalroom.com/members/johnnytheboy
    ^pedalroom.

  7. #7
    dsh
    dsh is offline
    Oh, you know... dsh's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    DC
    My Bikes
    '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
    Posts
    2,838
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That had to be cross-threaded, or not threaded in all the way or something right?

  8. #8
    oops paulismydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    nantucket
    My Bikes
    peter mooney, spot, yeti
    Posts
    74
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i bet you forgot to take out the bolt washer.....i almost did this last week

  9. #9
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Appleton WI
    My Bikes
    Several, mostly not name brands.
    Posts
    12,691
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by hairnet View Post
    get a sealed BB, no service needed.
    You still need to be able to pull the arms to replace the unit when it does die.

  10. #10
    Fresh Garbage hairnet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    10,907
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    You still need to be able to pull the arms to replace the unit when it does die.
    I wasn't being serious about it.

    On my old crank set I partially stripped the threads because I didn't get the crank puller snuggly in there before I tried to extract it. Maybe you did the same?
    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    I'd rather ride a greasy bowling ball than one of those things.
    Bikerowave
    My Bikes

  11. #11
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Appleton WI
    My Bikes
    Several, mostly not name brands.
    Posts
    12,691
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Yo! View Post
    Went in to service my BB and the puller yanked all of the extraction threads on the drive side. I'm super bummed, as I bought these cranks 4 weeks ago. I'm almost wondering if I may be able to figure out some kind of warranty deal with these, but it's unlikely.
    Probably SOL on warranty replacement -- extractor thread problems are almost exclusively a result of "user error" and unless you can definitively prove otherwise that's what they're going to call it.

    Some possible options for you:

    If the threads aren't *totally* gone, you may be able to chase them out and get the extractor to work:

    http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=BR-TC8



    Otherwise, there are tools to cut new threads at a slightly larger diameter, but they're expensive for a one-off job. Perhaps an LBS already has them:

    http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg..._id=VR-PE11000



    http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=SN-CES


  12. #12
    Yo!
    Yo! is offline
    Senior Member Yo!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    My Bikes
    Panasonic NJS Keirin x2, Level Professional, Bianchi CUSS, GT Pulse
    Posts
    1,047
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hey mr. robot,

    what is said name of the elusive shop near the rock wall, is it rockwall cycling?

    And no, the threads weren't crossed. The tool threaded in smoothly; it was the action of the puller pushing against the spindle that caused the crank arm to barf it's extraction threads. Basically, the puller walked out and the threads sprung off it in a bunch of coiled metal.

    This isn't my first time using a crank arm puller on a ST crankset, I pulled the washer before I put in the puller.

    John, thanks for the tool advice; I'll see if my LBS carries any of that.

  13. #13
    dsh
    dsh is offline
    Oh, you know... dsh's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    DC
    My Bikes
    '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
    Posts
    2,838
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yeah sorry not trying to imply you're incompetent or anything, this is just completely unexpected. I've stripped threads on a crankarm before, but only when I didn't thread the puller in far enough or crossthreaded.

    Crazy.

  14. #14
    :)
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    duluth
    My Bikes
    '07 Pista, '09 Fantom Cross Uno, '8? Miyata, '67 Stingray, '0? Zoo mod trials, Tallbike, Chopper, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '67 Triumph Chopper, '69 CB350, '58 BSA Spitfire, '73 CB450
    Posts
    3,392
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You could probably flush/clean it from the non-drive side, will be a PITA, but doable.
    Quote Originally Posted by Santaria View Post
    because physics has more street cred than tarckstars.

  15. #15
    Yo!
    Yo! is offline
    Senior Member Yo!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    My Bikes
    Panasonic NJS Keirin x2, Level Professional, Bianchi CUSS, GT Pulse
    Posts
    1,047
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ugh I know dude.

    I'm so sick by this.

    $200 set of cranks down the damn drain.

    ianjk, I thought ab just removing the non drive arm and the adjustable cup, and using my 36mm headset wrench on the drive side cup and pulling it all out as a unit. It could work, but aside from that, I'm just wishing the equipment would hold up for simple maintenance like this in the first place.

  16. #16
    :)
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    duluth
    My Bikes
    '07 Pista, '09 Fantom Cross Uno, '8? Miyata, '67 Stingray, '0? Zoo mod trials, Tallbike, Chopper, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '67 Triumph Chopper, '69 CB350, '58 BSA Spitfire, '73 CB450
    Posts
    3,392
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by thehappyrobot View Post
    ride it around without the crankarm bolt in it.
    it will eventually loosen.
    Just make sure you have your new crank ready to install as this will ruin your crank arm.
    Quote Originally Posted by Santaria View Post
    because physics has more street cred than tarckstars.

  17. #17
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
    My Bikes
    28 frames + 73 wheels
    Posts
    7,653
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Yo! View Post
    And no, the threads weren't crossed. The tool threaded in smoothly; it was the action of the puller pushing against the spindle that caused the crank arm to barf it's extraction threads. Basically, the puller walked out and the threads sprung off it in a bunch of coiled metal.

    This isn't my first time using a crank arm puller on a ST crankset, I pulled the washer before I put in the puller.
    Although I have never had this experience of thread failure with a crank arm, it has happened with other aluminum threaded parts such as the cases on my old Harley-Davidson. It is the result of bad metallurgy/machining in which the material becomes brittle and cracked when the threads are initially made, and is in no way the result of your actions. It is disturbing to see this sort of thing happen with a high end part, and I would expect better from Sugino. I still have and use 2 Sugino Mighty Comp cranksets from the 1970s, which have been pulled many times to service the bottom bracket without incident. I have yet to pull the Sugino 75 cranks on my 3 year old Bianchi Pista Concept, and hopefully I will not have the same problem you've experienced.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Coomer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    My Bikes
    '06 DK Cincinnati, '09 Mercier Kilo TT
    Posts
    155
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I did this once. It was my mistake because I didn't thread the puller in all the way. Did you thread the puller in all the way? You can tell if this is the case because if you did, then all of the threads will be destroyed.

  19. #19
    dsh
    dsh is offline
    Oh, you know... dsh's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    DC
    My Bikes
    '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
    Posts
    2,838
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Coomer View Post
    I did this once. It was my mistake because I didn't thread the puller in all the way. Did you thread the puller in all the way? You can tell if this is the case because if you did, then all of the threads will be destroyed.
    This was already asked and answered man. Looks like he just got boned on some bad cranks.

  20. #20
    Dances With Cars TRaffic Jammer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    My Bikes
    TBL Onyx Pro(ss converted), Pake SS (starting to look kinda pimped)
    Posts
    10,527
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Beware riding around waiting for it to loosen, you run the risk of rounding the taper.

  21. #21
    :)
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    duluth
    My Bikes
    '07 Pista, '09 Fantom Cross Uno, '8? Miyata, '67 Stingray, '0? Zoo mod trials, Tallbike, Chopper, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '67 Triumph Chopper, '69 CB350, '58 BSA Spitfire, '73 CB450
    Posts
    3,392
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by TRaffic Jammer View Post
    Beware riding around waiting for it to loosen, you will round the taper.
    fixed.
    Quote Originally Posted by Santaria View Post
    because physics has more street cred than tarckstars.

  22. #22
    Comanche Racing PedallingATX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Deep in the heart of Texas
    My Bikes
    Presto NJS build, Specialized Allez Pro w/ full Dura Ace and Ksyrium SLs, 1990something Specialized Sirrus
    Posts
    2,822
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Did you grease up the threads? You gotta grease those threads and then thread the crank puller in deep before you start to torque it. I have stripped those threads before, luckily it wasn't on a $300 crank.

    Anyways, crank pullers suck. I hate using them.

    I have a complete set of silver Sugino 75 cranks if you have a nice, black crankset for trade??

    Also, I agree it can be very dangerous to ride around waiting for it to loosen. I rounded out the inside of my crankarm taper doing that. I don't think there's really another way to get it off, though. The good news is that you will round out the inside of the crank arm LONG BEFORE you round out your BB spindle. So, if that crank arm is already toast, then it might not be that bad. Just make sure you're running a brake.
    skinnytire

  23. #23
    bike bike bike lattanzio's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    philly
    My Bikes
    eai bareknuckle, cayne uno beater, raleigh sprite 27 conversion
    Posts
    241
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    this makes more sense if the bb spindle wasn't greased before installation, and if the crank arm was drastically overtightened... but still... stripping out all of the threads from a new crankarm from a reputable company seems a bit unlikely without some other factors involved. crank pullers are some of the easiest tools to use. not ragging on you man, but this is just an unlikely thing to happen if you're doing things right.

    there are obviously defective parts here and there as well. sorry to hear about this.

  24. #24
    extra bitter kyselad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    My Bikes
    Bridgestone Kabuki, Miyata Ninety
    Posts
    1,558
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'd definitely check into the repair system JohnDThompson mentioned. Even if you can't find a shop nearby with the tool, it may well be cost-effective to send the arm to a shop that does. If I'm understanding correctly, the plug installed after re-tapping would accommodate a regular extractor, so this one-time fix would put the arm back in service without having to replace the whole thing.

  25. #25
    Yo!
    Yo! is offline
    Senior Member Yo!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    My Bikes
    Panasonic NJS Keirin x2, Level Professional, Bianchi CUSS, GT Pulse
    Posts
    1,047
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Right, but right now I'm thinking about how to pull the crankarm off without destroying it if I need to ship it off somewhere. I'm thinking about using a ball joint fork or perhaps an adjustable 3 arm harmonic balancer puller.

    I use a light layer of phil grease on the taper before installation; I also lightly greased the puller. It yanked the threads out from the very bottom, so if you feel the inside of the arm where the extraction threads are, it's totally smooth.

    Completely understandable that there's some skeptics out there, but I've removed and installed dozens of SqT cranks in my days. Again, I was surprised by how easily the things let loose. It was like pulling a cork out of a wine bottle.

    Pedalling, let me know if you want to sell your set. Unfortunately I don't have any other spare square tapers lying around to fit an ISO, let alone any in black.

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •