Best Track Frames?
#28
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no need to be mean. i clearly was looking for a list of a lot of bikes due to my "vagueness." secondly, i clearly did not know how much was out there. from the sites that i've looked at, there hasn't been much selection on the under $1,500 track frame.
now, is there anywhere to find out the weights of these frames? yes, i am concerned with the frame's weight here. i am looking for a frame that's nicer and lighter than the khs flite 100 frame...as stated in my original post.
now, is there anywhere to find out the weights of these frames? yes, i am concerned with the frame's weight here. i am looking for a frame that's nicer and lighter than the khs flite 100 frame...as stated in my original post.
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https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...istrictcarbon/
I would think you would be able to buy just the frame. Maybe not. I dont know.
I would think you would be able to buy just the frame. Maybe not. I dont know.
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https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...istrictcarbon/
I would think you would be able to buy just the frame. Maybe not. I dont know.
I would think you would be able to buy just the frame. Maybe not. I dont know.
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i'll throw some ideas out there and you can decide:
-yamaguchi (custom, amazing, pretty, and street cred)
-Panasonic (semi-custom, P.M. Deathhare, good if you want that NJS street cred)
-Old italian track frame (make sure it's not dented/cracked and that it fits)
-waterford (light, stiff steel)
-Bob Jackson (cheapest of these options, but still a great framebuilder)
-Sanner (custom lugged steel but a little meh compared to the rest)
-Broakland (Dope ass SF style...)
-Vanilla (nice, but a little gaudy and over-hyped)
OKAY, now it's time for you to do the research. You really can't go wrong with ANY of these. If $1500 is your total budget, I would go w/ a Bob Jackson and then put some nice parts on it. If $1500 is for frame only, you can pretty much afford any of these except maybe the broakland, vanilla, and waterford.
-yamaguchi (custom, amazing, pretty, and street cred)
-Panasonic (semi-custom, P.M. Deathhare, good if you want that NJS street cred)
-Old italian track frame (make sure it's not dented/cracked and that it fits)
-waterford (light, stiff steel)
-Bob Jackson (cheapest of these options, but still a great framebuilder)
-Sanner (custom lugged steel but a little meh compared to the rest)
-Broakland (Dope ass SF style...)
-Vanilla (nice, but a little gaudy and over-hyped)
OKAY, now it's time for you to do the research. You really can't go wrong with ANY of these. If $1500 is your total budget, I would go w/ a Bob Jackson and then put some nice parts on it. If $1500 is for frame only, you can pretty much afford any of these except maybe the broakland, vanilla, and waterford.
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If you get that Cervelo make sure to put some DP-18s on it.
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I don't think OP knows what the hell he is talking about.
here are your options: you get an aluminum/cf track frame that is nothing like the ones you mentioned but is light. Or you get a steel track frame that is heavy but looks more like the other ones you mentioned. Now that I have given you some basic knowledge, maybe you can try and use your brain and do some of your own research. It's really not that complicated for someone who has at least average cognitive abilities.
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#36
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Yeah, but then I recommended a bunch of aluminum/CF frames and he was like "OH, I don't want a tri/aero bike, I was thinking something like NJS, etc"
I don't think OP knows what the hell he is talking about.
here are your options: you get an aluminum/cf track frame that is nothing like the ones you mentioned but is light. Or you get a steel track frame that is heavy but looks more like the other ones you mentioned. Now that I have given you some basic knowledge, maybe you can try and use your brain and do some of your own research. It's really not that complicated for someone who has at least average cognitive abilities.
I don't think OP knows what the hell he is talking about.
here are your options: you get an aluminum/cf track frame that is nothing like the ones you mentioned but is light. Or you get a steel track frame that is heavy but looks more like the other ones you mentioned. Now that I have given you some basic knowledge, maybe you can try and use your brain and do some of your own research. It's really not that complicated for someone who has at least average cognitive abilities.
When I search for track frames, I have difficulty finding variety and useful specs (like weight). That is why I started this thread.
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#38
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Belt drives are stronger, more efficient, and have longer operating life than chains yes.
They're just annoying to service and can't be used with derailleurs.
They're just annoying to service and can't be used with derailleurs.
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WEIGHT IS NOT A USEFUL SPEC FOR A TRACK BIKE. Once you have accelerated to speed, weight does not mean ****. You really need to stop being so ignorant and read up a little before posting. You know what I did when I was going from road bikes to fixed gear. I shut the **** up and searched the forum and read post to figure out what was going on. Maybe you should do the same. 1 in 10 people in both of your post is giving you real help. Every one else is just ****ing with you. This is not personal at all, so do not take it that way. Come back when you have your **** together, and I am sure every one will be glad to help you.
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Also your frames weight is negligible at best.
You have a very decent steel frame right now, it wont get much lighter than that, till you go to Aluminum.
Aluminum frames will all weigh about the same too. So it wont get much lighter till you then go to carbon.
Your bikes weight is much more dependent on the components than the frame.
You have a very decent steel frame right now, it wont get much lighter than that, till you go to Aluminum.
Aluminum frames will all weigh about the same too. So it wont get much lighter till you then go to carbon.
Your bikes weight is much more dependent on the components than the frame.
#43
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If you really want to get weight down and keep the classic steel look, your best bet might be to keep your current frame and start drilling.
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#45
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Jesus dude, ride your KHS. You haven't even been riding long enough to know what you want besides from vague notion of "better" as well as "lighter". There's no such thing as "better" than your KHS, there's only frames offering different features, be that they're lighter, stiffer, more forgiving, more aerodynamic, more comfortable, more rare, more durable, better warrantied, more suited to your body fit, better for sprinting, better for high speed, better for low speed manuevering, longer wheelbase, shorter wheelbase, more classically styled, more modern looking, more reputable, more independent, more customized, more attention to construction, more value for your dollar, or something else.
The idea that you can just buy something "better" and also "lighter" as your main priorities for upgrading is pretty darn foolish. Ride your bike for a year, then you'd know what you want instead of wasting your money. Other than not being light enough (a stupid criteria for measuring the suitability of a 20 pound build) what exactly is "less good" about your KHS that another bike would satisfy? What qualities are you unhappy with other than it's "not better"ness?
The idea that you can just buy something "better" and also "lighter" as your main priorities for upgrading is pretty darn foolish. Ride your bike for a year, then you'd know what you want instead of wasting your money. Other than not being light enough (a stupid criteria for measuring the suitability of a 20 pound build) what exactly is "less good" about your KHS that another bike would satisfy? What qualities are you unhappy with other than it's "not better"ness?
#46
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lol, 1500 frame. who wants to take bets that he'll drop cash on a yamaguchi, then swap all his ****ty khs components onto it. 'guchi rollin on fsa veros and formula hubs laced to alex rims.
buy frames by geometry. weight isn't much of an issue. you'll feel it most accelerating (and then frame weight is not as big of a deal as wheel weight) and climbing (and might as well go variable gear for that).
drop cash on parts with bearings. that's your bottom bracket, hubs, and headset. leave a benjamin for your saddle too. the one that works best for you may cost more than some serfas or velo. seatpost, stem, and cranks aren't very necessary huge purchases, if this is street ridden you won't care about at most a half of a pound. I also doubt you're putting out enough wattage to start flexing cranks or breaking stems or seatposts or whatever (scratch that, if you're tricking you'll want sturdy parts, but then you wouldn't be buying a njs frame or whatever). lace your hubs to open pros or aeroheads too, they're light and decently strong (aeroheads catch hate here, but i have mine laced with a stressfull twisted spoke lacing, and it's holding up fine to potholes and curbs)
or i could just do like you asked. i recommend the godzilla, milwaukee, vigorelli, etc.
buy frames by geometry. weight isn't much of an issue. you'll feel it most accelerating (and then frame weight is not as big of a deal as wheel weight) and climbing (and might as well go variable gear for that).
drop cash on parts with bearings. that's your bottom bracket, hubs, and headset. leave a benjamin for your saddle too. the one that works best for you may cost more than some serfas or velo. seatpost, stem, and cranks aren't very necessary huge purchases, if this is street ridden you won't care about at most a half of a pound. I also doubt you're putting out enough wattage to start flexing cranks or breaking stems or seatposts or whatever (scratch that, if you're tricking you'll want sturdy parts, but then you wouldn't be buying a njs frame or whatever). lace your hubs to open pros or aeroheads too, they're light and decently strong (aeroheads catch hate here, but i have mine laced with a stressfull twisted spoke lacing, and it's holding up fine to potholes and curbs)
or i could just do like you asked. i recommend the godzilla, milwaukee, vigorelli, etc.
#47
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Well, if you were able, with your cognitive abilities, to tell ne the weights of these frames, I'd be able to tell if it's actually worth getting an ugly aero frame versus a nice looking alternative. But I'll guess you'll just ***** and not be helpful.
When I search for track frames, I have difficulty finding variety and useful specs (like weight). That is why I started this thread.
When I search for track frames, I have difficulty finding variety and useful specs (like weight). That is why I started this thread.
I started to feel bad about I was ****ing with you, but now I don't even know
#48
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I don't have a problem with anyone here. I don't know why Alexgate is getting upset. I clearly do not knowgod good resources to find out about track bikes. How can I find out about frames without using them myself or hearing other people's experiences? And no, I'm not going to buy a $1,500 frame and put my current components on it.
Also, yes, I want a track bike. But I am not using it on a track. If I was, aero would be important. But I find it hard to believe that everyone is saying that weight doesn't really matter. Would it be better if I said I carry this bike up 5 flights of stairs more than 10 times a day to have you guys care about weight?
Again, I was just hoping for a list of frames I never heard of so I could look into them later on my own time. ElTwitcho: thanks for the comment. I will think about what you said. Maybe I thought the idea of a "better" frame was a simpler concept than in reality.
But anyways, maybe an updated request: tell me a track frame you like and why you like it. Why is it worth buying than all of the other choices?
Also, yes, I want a track bike. But I am not using it on a track. If I was, aero would be important. But I find it hard to believe that everyone is saying that weight doesn't really matter. Would it be better if I said I carry this bike up 5 flights of stairs more than 10 times a day to have you guys care about weight?
Again, I was just hoping for a list of frames I never heard of so I could look into them later on my own time. ElTwitcho: thanks for the comment. I will think about what you said. Maybe I thought the idea of a "better" frame was a simpler concept than in reality.
But anyways, maybe an updated request: tell me a track frame you like and why you like it. Why is it worth buying than all of the other choices?
#49
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#50
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For a bike I was just going to ride, never lock up, never beat up and can keep in pristine condition, I'd get a custom frame made by geekhouse because they'd build up geometry I was happy with, it would be nice to own something handmade, and the curved seat tube looks ****ing awesome as hell.