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  1. #1
    Radac!
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    off the shelf low spoke aero wheels?

    So im looking for some climbing/ride with roadie wheels. My CandyRim deep setup is stupid heavy, and im looking for a weekend replacement.
    What im looking for?
    Low Spoke Count
    Aero spokes
    Mid Deepth rims
    Clinchers
    budget is like 400 a set

    I am not opposed to having prowheelbuilder or customwheel or whatever make them, but i have seriously no clue on what hubs are better than others except for price, or what rim to use (looking at velocity fusion?)
    Not going on a steel frame. Going on an aluminum Aero frame, so combined weight savings woudl be great. going KIND OF weight weenie on this one to get as close to 15-16lbs as possible

    i woudl greatly appreciate either Help, OR since i cant seem to find the right threads that can help. Thanks in advance guys and gals.
    Last edited by yokotas13; 11-03-09 at 04:51 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    I really doubt bladed spokes are that much of a difference.

    open pro to an ultegra low flange road hub, double butted dt spokes for the front. for the rear go open pro to like a dura ace low flange hub if you're doing a track wheel. brass vs alu nipples is something people usually argue about, the weight savings aren't terribly significant with a steel track bike though, so might as well do brass. I did aluminum on my bike though b/c i wanted a color, and they're holding up peachy.

    I don't notice any aero benefits of like a deep v or bladed spokes. I feel a difference with my hed jet, but that's because it's like an 80mm deep rim, and what I feel may be more attributed to it's tubularness.

  3. #3
    poppawheelie
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    If you don't mind tubular, 16h araya super aeros with hoshi bladed spokes.. or you can try and find 32h super aero clinchers.

  4. #4
    Senior Member VA_Esquire's Avatar
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    didnt read the question, but my answer is aerospoke.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member das_pyrate's Avatar
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    open pros
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    I find small children (under 5 works best) to be exceptionally light and very easy to trick.

  6. #6
    Radac!
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    id rather not try and save money by buying a 200.00 wheelset.
    If spending MORE will get be a better wheel (all the reading i have done suggest a MIDLY deep rim is enough of a tradeoff to be worth it) then i am willing to do it.
    I average 18mph on the rides, slower on hills, much faster on the downhill, and thats with the heavy wheels i have now. a better, more suitable wheelset will not only allow me to exert less effort, and last longer, but possibly faster on the top end.
    so please, serious comments only

  7. #7
    No lugs? No hugs. Exit.'s Avatar
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    KinLin XR300s, IRD Cadence Aero, Velocity Fusion, DT Swiss DT1.1...
    1997 Vitali track, 1986 Cilo Swiss road, 2006 KHS Flite 100, 2009 top-secret track bike.

  8. #8
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    Just get a 36 spoke wheel and lace it with half the spokes

    boom! low spoke count

  9. #9
    Senior Member mihlbach's Avatar
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    Go custom...
    KinLin XR300s (AKA IRD Cadence Aero)
    20-24 hole road front hub of your choice.
    24-28 formula or novatec track hub
    sapim cxray spokes (or substitute a strongly butted round spoke to save some money)

    Speaking from experience, you can build these at or under your budget, and they will be hundreds of grams lighter and just as aero (if not more) than complete track wheelsets, such as Mavic Ellipses, that cost hundreds more. The front road hub is key. A good road hub is typically more than 100 grams lighter than a front track hub.

  10. #10
    Ths Hipstr Kills Masheenz cc700's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ottothecow View Post
    Just get a 36 spoke wheel and lace it with half the spokes

    boom! low spoke count
    for the rear, sure. for the front? not even close to reasonable. road hub. done.

    also, is that hub coaster brake or a dynamo? if it's a brake, and it sure looks like one, bad call on the spoke count.

  11. #11
    A little North of Hell
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    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    XXXI

  12. #12
    Radac!
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    Quote Originally Posted by mihlbach View Post
    Go custom...
    KinLin XR300s (AKA IRD Cadence Aero)
    20-24 hole road front hub of your choice.
    24-28 formula or novatec track hub
    sapim cxray spokes (or substitute a strongly butted round spoke to save some money)

    Speaking from experience, you can build these at or under your budget, and they will be hundreds of grams lighter and just as aero (if not more) than complete track wheelsets, such as Mavic Ellipses, that cost hundreds more. The front road hub is key. A good road hub is typically more than 100 grams lighter than a front track hub.
    THAT is the kind of info i was looking for
    Now i have a baseline to compare other stuff to.

    ANy place you can reccomend to order?

  13. #13
    Senior Member mihlbach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yokotas13 View Post
    THAT is the kind of info i was looking for
    Now i have a baseline to compare other stuff to.

    ANy place you can reccomend to order?
    I used to order wheelparts from Mike Garcia (www.oddsandendos.com), but it seems like he is no longer reliable, although it might be worth trying to contact him.

    Heres a good price on rims...http://fairwheelbikes.com/kinlin-rim...um-p-1216.html

    If you want to combine a road front hub with a track rear hub, you should read these threads.
    Novatec FG/SS hub Group Buy
    NOVATEC HUBS - Group buy

    You can buy whatever spokes you want from lots of places..

    Good luck!

  14. #14
    A little North of Hell
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    kinlin

    bf member:

    Kinlin Rims. 30mm, 27mm, 19mm, Tubular.

    Edit: forgot you are in Japan.
    Last edited by Soil_Sampler; 11-03-09 at 07:11 PM. Reason: location
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    XXXI

  15. #15
    * adriano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ottothecow View Post
    Just get a 36 spoke wheel and lace it with half the spokes

    boom! low spoke count
    that is the only other 18h crow foot wheel set in the universe.

  16. #16
    Senior Member the_don's Avatar
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  17. #17
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by yokotas13 View Post
    id rather not try and save money by buying a 200.00 wheelset.
    If spending MORE will get be a better wheel (all the reading i have done suggest a MIDLY deep rim is enough of a tradeoff to be worth it) then i am willing to do it.
    I average 18mph on the rides, slower on hills, much faster on the downhill, and thats with the heavy wheels i have now. a better, more suitable wheelset will not only allow me to exert less effort, and last longer, but possibly faster on the top end.
    so please, serious comments only
    tradeoff for...

    i mean, if these are meant to be climbing wheels than aero won't really matter at all. go for proven light, strong rims: open pros. I've built velocity aeroheads myself which are similar weight to open pros, quality is a little lower and it builds a light wheel.

    you probably won't see any aero advantage until around 40mm rim depth. for your price point that's like B43 and H+son territory, not so light, which is no big for flat land, but if you're climbing you'll want the lighter weight.

    really, mavic open pros or velocity aeroheads laced to a low flange front road hub. I don't know what the lightest rear track hubs are though. My iro low flange is pretty light i guess. I would imagine low flange phils or dura ace hubs would be decent too.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Blacksail's Avatar
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    Senior Member Blacksail's Avatar
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  20. #20
    Radac!
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    they are for riding with road guys. climbing just so happens to be one of hte things they do. Will be used for the long rides/climbing whatever they do on teh weekends since noone else around rides FG/SS and does training rides.
    So aero advantage could be used, but at the price of a good 40mm wheel, i will have to settle for s mild aero wheel that still hgives a small advantage over an open pro
    id liek to go dura ace hubs, but htey are all 32 hole.

    anwyays, the reason i ask about where to have a wheel put together/buy from, is since im in japan, i dont want to buy a hub, and wheel, and not know what spokes i need, then have the shop have to order the spokes since they wont have it (shops here suck for stock) and wiat another 2 weeks for a wheel.

    Id rather order it, have it built, then mailed so i can just put tubes and tires and go

  21. #21
    Senior Member
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    okay, i thought you were building it yourself. now i see your title and wonder why i thought that haha.

    i don't really think you'll see any aero advantage of say a 30mm rim like a deep v over an open pro. it's just not deep enough (that's what she said) to make up for turbulence around the nipples and whatnot (i'm not even going there). or at least that's what i've heard.

    however, people here like bicyclewheelwarehouse.com it seems. I've never ordered from them since i usually build my own. of their track options i like:
    open pros: http://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/ind...&productId=194
    DTswiss 1.2: http://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/ind...&productId=195

    those DT swisses are 30mm like deep v's i think, so probably similar weight (all 30mm rims will probably weigh about the same) but are generally regarded as higher quality. those wheelsets are built with formula hubs, but you can order a front and rear wheel seperatley (just select "no front wheel" from the box, it knocks off like 75 bucks) then go to the road section (http://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/ind...iewCat&catId=9), select what you'd like for the front wheel, and pull down in the box the selection for no rear wheel.

    email them first about shipping to japan though. but their rims are handbuilt so it sounds like what you're looking for.

  22. #22
    Radac!
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    I have an APO address since i am USAF, so shipping shouldnt be a problem

    But my main thing was i want to keep the spoke count low front and rear. i dont NEED 32 spokes so no need to have the extra weight of the spokes. and staying around hte 20-25 (mid aero) size.

    i want to get as weight weenie as possible with the money i can spend. Eventually one i try and start racing next year, ill order a REAL wheelset to be competitive
    I hope i am explaining it completely, i have trouble explaining things sometimes.

    I dont mind spending the 500.00 total, i just want hte best for the money i am spending ya know?
    saving 50 bucks and only spending 450, it doenst matter.
    I have hte 500.00 set aside for wheels, so i need to use it lol

    basically my rear wheel right now is the weight of a pair of lightweight purpose built wheels. its rediculous. BOMBproof, but dumb for riding with guys that are at all fast

  23. #23
    Senior Member
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    i have a 16 spoke ksyrium elite front with bladed spokes. that ****er is way heavier than my 32 spoke aerohead laced to a low flange iro hub. and that's with straight gauge spokes too (since i'm running twisted spokes). and the ksyrium makes the 20 spoke aksium front i have look weight weenie

    my point is, for some ultra low spoke count wheels, actually probably many, the rims are beastly heavy to make up for the loss of strength of more spokes. off the peg i really think those open pros will build some of the lightest possible wheels for your budget and clincher. just use aluminum nipples, double butted spokes, and that road front hub and you're golden.

    otherwise you might want to hunt ebay or various classefied forums for a used wheelset. I got my hed jet front for 175 shipped and my hed3 rear (though freehub since it's for my road bike) for $200. then i spend about $100 on tires and glue since they're tubulars. fantastic, super aero wheels that aren't much heavier than my pig ksyriums

  24. #24
    Senior Member the_don's Avatar
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  25. #25
    Radac!
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    so then what weight should i be looking at for wheels?
    Average in the price range seems ot be 1800-1900 grams, with over 600 dropping to 1500ish grams.

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