Mercier Stripper frame questions
 

I've been thinking about getting the mercier stripper frame from bike island
http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1681
I currently ride a conversion and want to get a new frame. I don't want to spend too much money building a new bike, and I don't ride very hard so I figure this would be a good pick for me.
The specs say it has a standard 1 inch threaded or threadless headset. What does this mean? I didn't think a frame could accomadate threadless and threaded headsets. If someone could clear this up for me I would greatly appreciate it.
And if anyone wanted to comment on these frames and advice or discourage me from getting one feel free. I know there are already an load of threads on the mercier frames.

It means the fork comes partially threaded if you want to run a quill stem and threaded headset, but you'd have to have your LBS finish threading the steerer of the fork.

Or, you could get a threadless headset, chop the fork steerer down, and call it a day. The completes come with the threadless setup.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html

I have a few bikes: A Bianchi Pista, a Jamis Sputnik, and a Bare knuckle.
I recently bought the Stripper from Bike Island to build up with spare parts. It has quickly become my "go to" bike. The frame has just the right amount of flex for my NYC commute but retains a stiff responsiveness. It is similar to the Pista in terms of Geometry and road "feel" The quality of the frame itself is excellent for the price. I had my LBS hack down the fork and I have a 1 inch Chris King headset installed with a Thompson Elite 1-1/8th stem attached with the appropriate shim. Works fine. Im happy. Thread it if you want a retro quill stem but... thats not as easy for the LBS.

Each of the other bikes I have have merit but in terms of value? This is easily the best way to go if you MUST build up a bike. Otherwise the stock Pista is an excellent choice but then again so is the Sputnik. But then again I love the Bare knuckle even though its a little tighter and bit stiffer and way more expensive. Like shoes - size issue is most important thing to consider.

Threading a fork steerer is a PITA, labor intensive, and expensive (unless you know how to do it and have the tools to do it). No shop likes to do it, and many don't even have the thread-tapping tools to do it. If you want to run threaded on your Kilo, it would probably be more cost-effective to buy a threaded fork w/ the appropriate length steerer. Threadless in your case is definitely much cheaper and much fewer headaches.

this is totally wrong. it cost me 30 bucks at my LBS to have my fork threaded and cut down to the right size, and it only took them a few hours to do it. It was really easy and inexpensive and I got to use a stem that I liked.

Well... its not TOTALLY wrong. Its MORE of a pain to thread a fork then simply cutting it. Does that help? Lets hear all about this bike shop with the thirty dollar thread-job. Inquiring minds want to know.

the tap is like 40 bucks to thread the steertube
do it yourself lol

I would also like to hear about this shop. "It only took them a few hours to do it."

It takes 5 min to grab a hacksaw, measure a steerer, apply some cutting oil, and cut to desired length. This is if you take your time. A miter will keep the cut straight, but you don't even need one. A crooked cut will be covered up by the stem and top cap anyway.

Also, I find good quality threaded forks all the time at swap meets, CL, etc for $30 or less.

As you've seen the other contentious post's, the one above is correct. I will only add that if you want to go threaded you need to create threads down to where the top of the headset will be. They have threaded the steerer post only at the very top in order for you to continue the threads down to where you want them. This is a good thing, most bike shops hate creating/starting threads from scratch in fears of doing it incorrectly so much they will not do it/offer the service or charge you a arm and a leg. Cutting is easy, just use a pipe cutting tool. Never use a threadless stem where they are threads but this frame has the threads so high (6-12" above frame) on the steerer tube that you will never have a stem mounted so high.

If you want to go threadless, then just cut the steerer tube where you want it. 1" threadless headset are getting harder to find and mostly likely will use a 1 1/8" stem with adapter sleeve to fit the 1" steerer post. Not a big deal.

You'll just need to decide in the beginning which way you want to go, threaded or threadless but you can't switch between the two afterwards.

Call around all of your local bike shops, they will all have different attitudes about this and some will charge very little for it and some way too much. With the right tool it's quite easy, quick and idiot proof. It's important for a low price to First explain that there are threads already on the Steerer tube and you just want them to continue them down and cut off the excess tube.

Probably only took them a few min. of actual work.

Threading a tube isn't really rocket science if you have the proper tool(s).

Thank you for the info. I'm definitely going to go threadless, seeing as its much more simple. And I'm fairly sure I can install it myself at a buddies garage. So when its partially threaded its the top of the steer tube thats threaded? The part that will be chopped off when I cut it down to run the threadless headset?

Yes, there is a lot of excess steer tube left over, even if you want it set relatively high. Even if you biff it a bit (cut a bit on angle, restart), you will be fine. It is really fun to put it all together yourself.