Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-16-09, 12:40 AM   #1
CausticRain11
P-Town Represent
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Bikes:
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What to change on a Mercier Kilo TT

So I've finally decided, after borrowing my friends fixed gear for a few months to have it taken away, to buy a fixed gear for myself. I have been reading around the forum and I've decided that I'm going to buy a Mercier Kilo TT because I am on a very tight budget (I will hardly be able to afford it on its own.)

So here's my real question: I know that the Kilo tt comes stock with a 46/16 gear ratio (Correct me if I'm wrong.) which means only one skid patch. I plan to be skidding or skipstopping a decent amount so I think the first thing I want to do is find a ratio that provides more skid patches.
At first I was looking at getting a different chainring but that's pretty expensive. Then I realized that I could get a decent back cog with 17 teeth for around $10. That's pretty cheap and would give me 17 skidpatches.

So I was wondering if I would just be able to take off the stock cog on the kilo tt and replace it with the one that I will purchase. I'm pretty new to bikes so I'm not sure how difficult this would be, but I have a friend who could easily help me and provide the needed parts if possible.


Also I've heard that the lockring on the kilo tt sucks so would it be worth getting a decent new lockring for about $10 at the same time when I order the cog?

Thanks a lot bike forums!
-Tim
CausticRain11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 12:45 AM   #2
WoundedKnee
Antarctica awaits
 
WoundedKnee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tucson, Zona
Bikes:
Posts: 1,965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Not hard. You can get the crappy Avenir multitool for pretty cheap. It has a lockring spanner, chainwhip(two things you would need), a 14mm and 15mm wrench, and a bottle opener. It's a pain in the ass to use but it works.
WoundedKnee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 11:46 AM   #3
ichitz
Nü-Fred
 
ichitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: Torelli Tipo Uno (stolen), Peugeot Nice, Mercier Kilo TT
Posts: 1,517
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
take it to ur LBS?
my LBS did everything for about 15bucks (that includes the new cog)
ichitz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 11:55 AM   #4
jtgotsjets
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Bikes: Miele Azsora, Kuwahara Cascade
Posts: 1,749
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I might be wrong (math skills are fuzzy), but wouldn't 46/16 give you 8 skid patches?

Also, FWIW, skid patches is kind of a silly way to choose your gear ratio. You should go with whatever is most practical for the kind of riding you'll be doing. I suppose if the majority of your riding is spent showing off your skidding skills to the ladies downtown, then go for 17 skid patches, but nine times out of ten, you should pick the ratio that is best for your style of riding (not stopping). If that results in too few skid patches, just take your wheel off every once in awhile and rotate it a few teeth forward. Am I the only person that flops their hub from time to time?

Last edited by jtgotsjets; 11-16-09 at 11:59 AM.
jtgotsjets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 02:54 PM   #5
thedutchtouch
Senior Member
 
thedutchtouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
Bikes: Leader 722ts
Posts: 220
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
itgotsjets is correct.

google images gets us:
thedutchtouch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 03:08 PM   #6
ichitz
Nü-Fred
 
ichitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: Torelli Tipo Uno (stolen), Peugeot Nice, Mercier Kilo TT
Posts: 1,517
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
But the OP was talking about switching his 46x16 to 17 which results in 17 skid patches.

Last edited by ichitz; 11-16-09 at 03:15 PM.
ichitz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 03:13 PM   #7
ichitz
Nü-Fred
 
ichitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: Torelli Tipo Uno (stolen), Peugeot Nice, Mercier Kilo TT
Posts: 1,517
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
btw, kilos comes 48x16 (from BD). But looks like 17t is the magic number anyway..
ichitz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 03:25 PM   #8
grymg
Senior Member
 
grymg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Fremont, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 211
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I would suggest changing the rear cog to 17 like you said, and get a better lockring and a lockring tool (or tighten at your LBS). The stock lockring will strip.

Then get decent leather doublestraps or get a front brake. It's tough to brake with the stock nylon single straps.
grymg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 03:37 PM   #9
bionnaki
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 886
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
that chart is not for everyone (at least for the GI portion). the math is for 32" wide tires & 27" wheels, if I recall correctly.
bionnaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 03:38 PM   #10
Flash_BeeZy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Jose. Ca
Bikes: surly Steamroller, Mercier Kilo TT pro
Posts: 261
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Please don't skimp out on cheap cog and lockring...those are the diff bettween life and death..your prob thinking getting the cheapest cog and lock ring replacement which are stamped and cheap..which will result in stripping ect. Also have it installed professionally by your lbs and make sire they grease all the threads and torqe them properly. on a budget go Dura ace or eai ect
Flash_BeeZy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 04:01 PM   #11
TheRealNicola
Daily Commuter
 
TheRealNicola's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pueblo, Colorado
Bikes: Surly Steamroller, Gary fisher wahoo
Posts: 387
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
yeah the kilo does come with 48/16 which is only 1 skid patch.
TheRealNicola is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 06:32 PM   #12
CausticRain11
P-Town Represent
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Bikes:
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks a lot everyone for the helpful replies!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtgotsjets View Post
Also, FWIW, skid patches is kind of a silly way to choose your gear ratio. You should go with whatever is most practical for the kind of riding you'll be doing. I suppose if the majority of your riding is spent showing off your skidding skills to the ladies downtown, then go for 17 skid patches, but nine times out of ten, you should pick the ratio that is best for your style of riding (not stopping). If that results in too few skid patches, just take your wheel off every once in awhile and rotate it a few teeth forward. Am I the only person that flops their hub from time to time?
Hahaha. I'm definitely not a hipster or trying to be one like that. I don't plan on doing skid tricks or anything like that either. I am just really broke and I cant afford to be replacing a rear tire a lot so the more skid patches the better.
Could anyone with knowledge of Portland, Oregon, tell me if a 46/17 would be good or bad gear wise? I only have a few hills on my commute and they aren't too steep.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grymg View Post
I would suggest changing the rear cog to 17 like you said, and get a better lockring and a lockring tool (or tighten at your LBS). The stock lockring will strip.

Then get decent leather doublestraps or get a front brake. It's tough to brake with the stock nylon single straps.
I definitely agree. I plan on using the stock straps for the first few weeks while I can get more money, then I was thinking about buying some powergrips (I've never tried them before, but they seem like a good idea.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash_BeeZy View Post
Please don't skimp out on cheap cog and lockring...those are the diff bettween life and death..your prob thinking getting the cheapest cog and lock ring replacement which are stamped and cheap..which will result in stripping ect. Also have it installed professionally by your lbs and make sire they grease all the threads and torqe them properly. on a budget go Dura ace or eai ect
You make a very good point. I just scanned the internet to find some base prices. What do you think would be a good price for a good rear cog and lockring on a tight budget? Also I have a friend who has tons of bikes that he builds and he can help me out with everything since he knows what he's doing so I don't need to go into my lbs to get anything installed.

Again, Thank you everyone for your help.
CausticRain11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-09, 07:14 PM   #13
seau grateau
Senior Member
 
seau grateau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: LA
Bikes: Shogun Selectra, Felt TK2, Ridley Fenix AL
Posts: 7,368
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 268 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by CausticRain11 View Post
I'm definitely not a hipster.....Portland, Oregon
Uh-huh. *wink*
seau grateau is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 12:23 AM   #14
CausticRain11
P-Town Represent
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Bikes:
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by seau grateau View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CausticRain11
I'm definitely not a hipster.....Portland, Oregon
Uh-huh. *wink*
Hahaha. You make a very strong point. I still deny everything though
CausticRain11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 12:58 AM   #15
robotphood
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 319
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
On a budget, 20-30 for a cog, 10-15 for a lockring. Like someone mentioned, EAI and dura ace is an affordable combo.

No one's going to be able to tell you what ratio is good for you. We all have different abilities on a bike. I say ride the stock ratio for a while and see how you do on it. Then size up or down accordingly. You could always use the stock 48T chainring (it's not 46) with a 17 or 19 cog if it's too rough for you and increase skid patches at the same time. I wouldn't worry too much about preserving the stock tires. If you plan on skidding, plan on replacing it sooner rather than later. If you can't afford tires, then don't skid and use a brake.

Last edited by robotphood; 11-17-09 at 01:03 AM.
robotphood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 01:04 AM   #16
johnnytheboy
hubris protects no one.
 
johnnytheboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: USA! USA! USA!!
Bikes: all of them.
Posts: 3,154
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
48/18 ftw
johnnytheboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 06:33 AM   #17
Scrodzilla
There goes Tokyo
 
Scrodzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Bikes: EAI Bare Knuckle, 1975 Raleigh Pro Track
Posts: 26,764
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 217 Post(s)
^ +1
__________________
Scrodzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 08:03 AM   #18
kubrick215
Senior Member
 
kubrick215's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: PHILA-215
Bikes:
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Just got this tool and it's the cheapest piece of junk I've ever purchased!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ss_T15_product

I wanted to save a few bucks and broke my rule of never buying cheap tools. Big mistake!


Lock ring got kinda stripped, lock ring part of tool is now slightly bent and the lock ring is STILL on the wheel. Oh well, going to LBS after work.

Bottom line, don't buy cheap tools and replace your lock ring and cog...Terrible quality!
kubrick215 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 02:24 PM   #19
ToeCutter66
Veteran Cosmic Rocker
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Potomac Falls, VA
Bikes: 2009 Mercier Kilo TT Stripper, 200? Marin Fairfax, 2002 Giant "Stiletto", 2008 Felt "MP", 1939 Columbia "Viking"
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I dont think people would be having problems with the rear hub on the Kilo TT if they just left the 16 tooth alone. People are getting carried away with changing it out either incorrectly or using the wrong or cheap tools. If you want to constantly change your sprocket, get a road bike with a derailleur.
ToeCutter66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 04:18 PM   #20
antonch
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 30
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
It aint the tool, its most likely the cheap lock ring. It is a Kilo after all. Mine got stripped as well.
antonch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 04:33 PM   #21
PedallingATX
Comanche Racing
 
PedallingATX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Bikes: Presto NJS build, Specialized Allez Pro w/ full Dura Ace and Ksyrium SLs, 1990something Specialized Sirrus
Posts: 2,822
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToeCutter66 View Post
I dont think people would be having problems with the rear hub on the Kilo TT if they just left the 16 tooth alone. People are getting carried away with changing it out either incorrectly or using the wrong or cheap tools. If you want to constantly change your sprocket, get a road bike with a derailleur.
what are you talking about? it's important to have the right gear ratio on your bike. Once you have it, you can leave it alone. Also, I'd like to point out that track racers (the people to whom our wheels/cogs/lockrings are made for) change their cogs out several times a day...
PedallingATX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 09:46 PM   #22
xkillemallx16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: im, hungary
Bikes:
Posts: 1,983
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What are skid patches?
xkillemallx16 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 10:24 PM   #23
robotphood
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 319
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
http://tinyurl.com/y9vuw23
robotphood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 11:03 PM   #24
Triple8Sol
manonthemoon
 
Triple8Sol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Bikes: Current custom builds: FG=KHS Flite 100 DH=Transition Blindside FR=Transition Bottlerocket
Posts: 748
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If you're really on a budget, go raid the used parts bins at one of the recyclerys or some other shop in Portland. You might be able to find a cheap new takeoff cog/lockring? I got a new takeoff 15t cog and formula lockring for $5 at recycled cycles up here.
Triple8Sol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-09, 11:07 PM   #25
klaw091
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Queens, NY or Champaign, IL
Bikes: Schwinn World Sport
Posts: 261
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Get a EAI cog and dura-ace lock ring, you will not regret it. Those are not the parts you want to skimp out on.
klaw091 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:31 PM.