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  1. #1
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    Goin cheap on new crank arms. What do you think?

    So I'm at the point in my conversion that I need to replace my vintage stock crank arm that doesn't allow me to switch out the chain ring, with more suitable ones. I found these on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

    That's pretty much what I want, and I figure I can use it with the existing vintage bottom bracket I have on the bike now. Would there be any reason why I shouldn't get these? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Deshi's Avatar
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    Those cramk arms should do just fine. My only concern is you might have a horrible chain line with your current bottom bracket. I would suggest getting a shorter spindle shimano bottom bracket. You should be able to get one from your LBS for around $15.
    Quote Originally Posted by PedallingATX View Post
    dude...you can't "no ****" something THAT ****. That's like saying "sometimes I just like to make out with dudes...no ****"

  3. #3
    Gentlemen. ADSR's Avatar
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    I'm basically obsessed at this point with how my drivetrain and bottom bracket feels. I can't see how anything that would lead to flex/roughness would be a good thing. I say get something rad and be happy with it.
    The bums will always lose.

  4. #4
    A little North of Hell
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    a little cheaper, but with a 42 tooth ring.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/FSA-Vero-Track-C...d=360201916625
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADSR View Post
    I'm basically obsessed at this point with how my drivetrain and bottom bracket feels. I can't see how anything that would lead to flex/roughness would be a good thing. I say get something rad and be happy with it.
    Yeah, but not everyone can even sort out rough spots in their drivetrain. Therefore, something less than rad would still make them happy.
    1988 Miele Azsora

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    Ride for Life wearyourtruth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fixie4jester View Post
    That's pretty much what I want, and I figure I can use it with the existing vintage bottom bracket I have on the bike now. Would there be any reason why I shouldn't get these? Thanks!
    just to be clear, your "vintage bottom bracket" is also a square taper, right?
    before posting, a "noob" should always ask themselves "could this have been answered by first visiting Sheldon Brown

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    Quote Originally Posted by wearyourtruth View Post
    just to be clear, your "vintage bottom bracket" is also a square taper, right?
    Yeah it is a square taper, I checked first

    Quote Originally Posted by Deshi View Post
    Those cramk arms should do just fine. My only concern is you might have a horrible chain line with your current bottom bracket. I would suggest getting a shorter spindle shimano bottom bracket. You should be able to get one from your LBS for around $15.
    Hmmm, I was hoping the chainline would be pretty good once I just replaced the old chainring (right now it is running on the inner ring and slightly off). When you say, get a shorter spindle, do you mean just the center axel like bar that goes through the bottom bracket, or you mean a complete bottom bracket? Because I don't think I've seen a bottom bracket anywhere for 15 bucks. My LBS tried to sell me a freakin 270 crankset and when I said that was too much he offered their "cheapest" 150 dollar one.. I'm trying to build this "on the cheap", as Sheldon would say, lol.

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    The arms are probably fine. 165 would probably be ideal- is it a conversion or a "track" frame? The chainring is probably terrible. I'd buy cheap arms and spend some money on a quality chainring- that's going to make a big difference in the smoothness and consistency of the chain tension. A decent road ring is better than a cheap track ring, and of course a good track ring is rounder than a good road ring. You're talking ~20 for the ****ty track ring, ~40 for a good road ring (Sugino, Shimano), and ~80 for a nice track ring(Sugino messenger, Miche, etc.).

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    Well, I also found these vintage arms on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT and I noticed that the right arm sits really close to the bolt pattern, as apposed to the first one I showed you all, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

    Is there a reason why the second one sticks out so much further? Is this what effects the chainline?

    Oh, and my conversion is of a road frame, not a track frame. http://www.flickr.com/photos/tronics...7622691740590/

  10. #10
    Senior Member Deshi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fixie4jester View Post
    Hmmm, I was hoping the chainlinene would be pretty good once I just replaced the old chainring (right now it is running on the inner ring and slightly off). When you say, get a shorter spindle, do you mean just the center axel like bar that goes through the bottom bracket, or you mean a complete bottom bracket? Because I don't think I've seen a bottom bracket anywhere for 15 bucks. My LBS tried to sell me a freakin 270 crankset and when I said that was too much he offered their "cheapest" 150 dollar one.. I'm trying to build this "on the cheap", as Sheldon would say, lol.
    The bottom bracket is the unit that goes through the frame and the crank arms attach to. Iv had good success using a Shimano UN-26 bb with a 110mm spindle with FSA Gossamer arms on a conversion before. Iv also used the same BB with older Sugino Custom arms on an old Miyata conversion. The chain line was not perfect but allowed the chainrings to stay on the outside of the arm and ligned up better than any other BB combo iv tried. and looked great. Just my 2 cents.

    Your LBS is nuts if they try to sell you that BB for more than $15. I work in a shop and can tell you wholesale is a bit less than half that.
    Quote Originally Posted by PedallingATX View Post
    dude...you can't "no ****" something THAT ****. That's like saying "sometimes I just like to make out with dudes...no ****"

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    Shimano 105 road cranks look better and cost like 25 bucks. Depending on the rings youll get a nice 42t chainring too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by xg43x View Post
    Shimano 105 road cranks look better and cost like 25 bucks. Depending on the rings youll get a nice 42t chainring too.
    What's wrong with the cranks you have? Is it just that they're a double? Because you can just get some shorter spider bolts and lose the inside ring, no problem.

    Don't just guess at the chainline. You need to find the centerline of the frame at the bottom bracket and at the dropouts, then extrapolate from that how far out to the right the chainline will be. This will determine what bottom bracket you need. A sealed bottom bracket cartridge is around $20. You want this to be right- it's silly to spend money on nice parts when the set up is the limiting factor on the smoothness of your drivetrain.

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    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    My wife just bought a set of FSA Veros from that same eBay seller for her 1x7. I don't have a problem with Veros or other RPM cranks. For the money, I feel they're just as good as anything else in that price range and in my opinion, look nice and clean. The 46t chainring that came with the arms is bunk, though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ismellfish2 View Post
    What's wrong with the cranks you have? Is it just that they're a double? Because you can just get some shorter spider bolts and lose the inside ring, no problem.

    Don't just guess at the chainline. You need to find the centerline of the frame at the bottom bracket and at the dropouts, then extrapolate from that how far out to the right the chainline will be. This will determine what bottom bracket you need. A sealed bottom bracket cartridge is around $20. You want this to be right- it's silly to spend money on nice parts when the set up is the limiting factor on the smoothness of your drivetrain.
    I have done this in the past. My Bianchi Brava fixed conversion had 105 cranks, I filed down the tabs on the back, put a 41t chainring on the outside and picked up a 68x107mm bottom bracket and had almost perfect chainline.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Brian's Avatar
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    I worry when I see brand names shipped directly from Taiwan. Are they real, or knock-offs?

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    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    The set my wife got from that seller are real. They got here pretty quick too for something shipped from Taiwan.

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    As I'm still looking, mostly on ebay, for either a new crank arm set or a vintage set (just cuz I like the style and it will go well with my conversion), I am wondering what the most common BCD is. The FSA set that I linked to says it is 110mm, while I have found a couple others, I think Campagnolos, that are 135mm. There is also a shimano set that I found that doesn't specify. So, what is a good common BCD that I can find chain rings for, whether I go for a vintage set or not?

  18. #18
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    don't mess around with 135mm bcd. The only rings you'll find will be road rings, either 50s or 42. 40 39 etc. If you want a "street gear" for a 135mm crankset you either have to get an origin8 ring or spring for a $100 miche. Just buy the veros, steel wool off the logos and move on
    "tongue is big, like dog"

  19. #19
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Those particular Veros are 130bcd. Steel wool won't even be necessary in removing the logos...they'll wear off on their own pretty quickly.

  20. #20
    A little North of Hell
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    135

    Quote Originally Posted by TL179 View Post
    don't mess around with 135mm bcd.
    The only rings you'll find will be road rings, either 50s or 42. 40 39 etc.
    If you want a "street gear" for a 135mm crankset you either have to get an origin8 ring or spring for a $100 miche.
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  21. #21
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Copied from the eBay listing:

    It's for a set of new never used and never installed FSA Vero track crankset.

    • Crank arm length: 170mm
    • Chain ring: 1/2" x 3/32", 46T
    • 130mm BCD
    • Square taper
    • Weight: 643 grams including 2 crank bolts

    BB is not included.

  22. #22
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    So 130bcd should be easy enough to find good chain rings if needed? Also, I mentioned before, but I will ask again, I see some spiders that looked to sit farther out than others. the FSA Veros look like this, as apposed to others that are more low profile and will sit closer to the bottom bracket. Is there a reason for this, and will it effect the chain line?

    Oh, and I was also considering the Eighthinch crankset. How are those?

  23. #23
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    With the Veros, you'll need a 107mm bottom bracket to have your chainring on the outside of the spider and a 103 to run it on the inside. The EighthInch crankset is also actually pretty good for short money.

  24. #24
    A little North of Hell
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    inside<>outside

    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    With the Veros, you'll need a 107mm bottom bracket to have your chainring on the outside of the spider and a 103 to run it on the inside.
    you meant 107 inside and 103 outside.
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    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Yes I did. Oops!

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