spaceboy

I want to get a Kilo TT from BD and change it to have a threaded headset. Would this be a relatively easy and inexpensive process?

daft crunk

You'll need a new fork and headset.

spaceboy

Thanks for the reply. A new headset shouldn't be a problem but I am concerned about the fork. Would it be possible to just get the fork threaded?

LupinIII

kilott forks are 1 inch. should be able to get it cut and threaded by any decent shop, probably around 20 bucks.

spaceboy

That's awesome to hear. It was definitely my preference to keep the fork.

Yo!

You will need a new 1" threaded headset though; I recommend choosing your new headset before you thread the fork so you know your exact steerer length with headset stack and headtube height calculated in. Also remember that fork crown races and headtubes are measured at either 27.0mm (JIS) or 26.4 (ISO), so make sure you put a caliper on there to be sure, unless of course someone can chime in and provide that info.

Nuggetross

i asked this questions a million times when i was building up my bike over the summer. everyone told me that threading a fork was dangerous and/or hard. i went to a few shops, and they weren't willing to do it. it requires this special park tool, skill, and weakening of your fork. if you can really find a shop that's willing to do it, i guess go for it. but it'd probably cost the same amount to sell your fork on craigslist and buy a new threaded kilo tt fork.

go to bikeisland.com and get a threaded kilo tt fork. i got a nashbar carbon fork. it worked out. threaded kilo fork is like $50, nashbar carbon $80.

Yo!

I don't have the park tool to thread a fork, but I've seen the guys at Transit Cycles here in Dallas do it often, usually in less than 15 minutes. No big deal if you have an adequate steerer length and the correct tools.

spaceboy

Can you tell me more about the fork weakening? I don't want to do something to my bike that makes it more dangerous.

tgscordv6

Threading a threadless fork sometimes make the steerer tube walls thinner, which might or might not make it brittle.

Nuggetross

i don't really know the details of fork weakening. but again, when i asked this question over the summer, people said that even minute shaving of the fork steerer is not a good idea. they argue that threadless steerer tubes weren't meant to be cut into (even though threading is really not very deep). to your defense, there really shouldn't be much stress directly on the steerer tube. i was still willing to cut into my threadless steerer tube like you, except there were no shops that i could find that would do it. but if you're mr. pothole/mr. trickster, i would advise against it.

bigvegan

"Can you tell me more about the fork weakening? I don't want to do something to my bike that makes it more dangerous."

Threaded forks are thicker than threadless forks so that when metal is removed to make the threads, the fork is still adequately strong.

If you start with a thinner threadless fork, and then remove metal, you compromise the strength of the fork.

It's a pretty silly move when you can buy a new threaded fork online for less than $100, and keep your threadless fork as a backup.

spaceboy

Thanks for the info. Would the threaded Kilo TT forks on bikeisland just be as thick as the threadless?

Few more questions:

Which sites should I check out?
What length steer tube should I get for a 50/53cm Kilo TT?
Will all the forks keep the top tube of the bike parallel to the ground or will some give it a slant?

Brian

Hmm. For $50, you get to keep all your teeth.

TwoShort

Or stay threadless, keeping your fork & headset.

Mind you, I'm generally opposed to the BF tradition of answering every "How do I...?" with "Why would you want to...?" as I myself like to do all sorts of things to bikes without any need (or even ability) to justify them to others. But, just out of curiosity... Why would you want to?

Yo!

Quill stems are attractive, didn't you hear?

spaceboy

Yeah it's just for aesthetics. I really don't like how the threadless stems look.

Retro Grouch 

1. So what's the fork inside diameter? If it's anything other than 22.2 mm it's a non-starter because the stem won't fit.

2. I own a tap for a 1" threaded fork so I have a little experience to speak from. It's good for cleaning up threads and MAYBE adding a cew threads. I wouldn't even consider starting to thread a fork from new. I'm also thinking that anybody who would quote a price of $20.00 has probably never done it.

spaceboy

Thanks for all the help guys.

Here's the info for the threaded fork:
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1348

Would this be any different from the unthreaded one? And would the 165mm fit on a 50/53?

bigvegan

"Would this be any different from the unthreaded one?"

It's probably thicker. Also, it has threads.

"And would the 165mm fit on a 50/53?"

You know who would know? info@bikeisland.com (They're owned by the same folks as bikesdirect.com, so this should be an easy one.)

Threaded stems ARE much nicer aesthetically than threadless.

spaceboy

Yay for aesthetics! Thanks BV.

operator

So the OP wants to spend money to get something that is less stiff, heavier and slower.

Lol.

spaceboy

I know, I know, it's not the most pragmatic thing but... well I don't really have a good reason besides "I like it like that". But isn't liking your bike what it's all about?

Nuggetross

oh shush. this isn't weightweenies. quill stems look really nice. sure, they're obsolete. slower though? are you whipping around your handlebars all the time?

erichsia

ftfy.