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  1. #1
    kfm
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    Replacing a fork / threaded headset

    Who wants to help me change my forks out? I have a Tange 1" threaded headset. Is it as simple as it looks? Unscrew both headset nuts & that's it?

  2. #2
    Blaster of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    It's that easy. Any idea what size your crown race is?

    All three of those bikes are pretty damn awesome, btw...

  3. #3
    kfm
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    Nope. So all I need is a headset wrench (whatever that size is)?

  4. #4
    kfm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    All three of those bikes are pretty damn awesome, btw...
    Thanks man, they're all gone.
    Last edited by kfm; 01-02-10 at 05:51 PM.

  5. #5
    Blaster of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Yeah but if the crown race on your new fork isn't the same size as the old one, you may have some troubles. ISO threaded headsets use a 26.4mm crown and JIS headsets use 27mm.
    Last edited by Scrodzilla; 01-02-10 at 06:36 PM.

  6. #6
    kfm
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    Cool. Thanks again.

  7. #7
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfm View Post
    Who wants to help me change my forks out? I have a Tange 1" threaded headset. Is it as simple as it looks? Unscrew both headset nuts & that's it?
    If you're replacing the unit (as opposed to simply servicing it), you will need to knock the cups out of the head tube and the crown race off the fork crown. Make sure your replacement parts match (i.e. ISO vs JIS dimensions, and overall stack height) before you get in too deep. JIS head tube and fork crown seats are easily milled to ISO dimensions, but going the other way can be problematic. If your steer tube is too long for the new headset, adding spacers is quick and easy, but if it's too short, you're SOL except for a new fork.

  8. #8
    Blaster of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    I was under every impression the OP is just switching his fork and using his existing headset.

  9. #9
    kfm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    I was under every impression the OP is just switching his fork and using his existing headset.

    Exactly. I just got a new frame with 2 forks. I just want to make sure that I will not be running into any unforeseen problems when I switch them out. Both forks have crown races... I'm ready to go.

    Thanks again!

  10. #10
    Ride for Life wearyourtruth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    I was under every impression the OP is just switching his fork and using his existing headset.
    this is the impression i got too. is that right OP?

    that said, what you need to do is (provided you are not crossing ISO with JIS as stated) unscrew the lock nut, then the top cap (removing any spacers), pull the fork out. then you must remove the crown race from the existing fork and put it on the new fork. sometimes this is easy, sometimes this is very difficult without the proper tools. it's made to sit tight and a crown race tool is usually necessary to put it on the new fork, even if you can get away with removing it from the old one with a fat screwdriver and a hammer. the important thing is to NOT DAMAGE the race where it comes in contact with the bearings, and it should sit flush against the crown.

    provided you can do that, just add some grease and reinstall. of course you have to know how to properly adjust a threaded headset. do you know how to do that? if you don't you will ruin your headset by either having it too tight or too loose.
    before posting, a "noob" should always ask themselves "could this have been answered by first visiting Sheldon Brown

    -Tim-
    www.velocipedebikeproject.org

  11. #11
    kfm
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    Quote Originally Posted by wearyourtruth View Post
    do you know how to do that? if you don't you will ruin your headset by either having it too tight or too loose.
    I've been told that you can do it by feeling it out. I know how a headset feels when it's too tight, so I imagine I can work through it. Perhaps not?

  12. #12
    Ride for Life wearyourtruth's Avatar
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    oh yeah it's totally done by feel, just be sure you counter-tighten the top race and the lock nut together and not just crank them both down. it should ideally be as loose as it can be without any play.
    before posting, a "noob" should always ask themselves "could this have been answered by first visiting Sheldon Brown

    -Tim-
    www.velocipedebikeproject.org

  13. #13
    kfm
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    Quote Originally Posted by wearyourtruth View Post
    oh yeah it's totally done by feel, just be sure you counter-tighten the top race and the lock nut together and not just crank them both down. it should ideally be as loose as it can be without any play.
    Cool, I think I'm all set up now. Thanks guys.

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