Speedplay Pedals
I looking into running a set of clipless on one of my Fg's and I'm trying to decide on which ones to get. a friend of mine suggested Speedplay pedal, he uses them on all of his road bikes. i researched them a bit and they seem to get very good reviews except for their high price tag. i also read theyre is a lot of movement with them and i was wondering if that would be very good for a FG setup. does anyone have any input on these pedal, or maybe a suggestion on something else? thanks
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I have used Speedplay Frogs and the x zero (or something like that) for road bikes. I think there is to much unrestricted side to side float with Speedplays for riding fixed. Also the cleat design is not very low profile on the road pedals. I would recommend some Crank Bros pedals for fixed gear riding as they allow for float, but you have a much more solid feel to the attachment of the cleat to the pedal. Plus you can get into the Crank Bros for a lot less money.
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I second that. I ride speedplay on all my bikes except fixed, which has cages. But I am looking into some eggbeaters. They have a lot of options also.
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alright thats what i was thinking after reading some reviews. which crank brothers would you suggest? also are there any shoes you would recommend as well?
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I have frogs on both of my fixed bikes and wouldn't want to switch back to anything with springs (went from shimano spd to speedplay frog). The frogs are fully rebuildable and take 5 minutes to completely disassemble, clean and regrease...
They are also much more comfortable on my knees, especially when climbing hills, since my heels can move outward slightly when swinging the bike left to right while mashing. The cleats are more expensive though... but so far my first pair have lasted 6 months without any noticeable play.. The big con is they are an expensive system to get into.. |
Originally Posted by xB_Nutt
(Post 10352438)
I have used Speedplay Frogs and the x zero (or something like that) for road bikes. I think there is to much unrestricted side to side float with Speedplays for riding fixed. Also the cleat design is not very low profile on the road pedals. I would recommend some Crank Bros pedals for fixed gear riding as they allow for float, but you have a much more solid feel to the attachment of the cleat to the pedal. Plus you can get into the Crank Bros for a lot less money.
Speedplays have the BEST street/track clearance of ANY pedal out there. They also offer the MOST float at 15 degrees. What's more is that it is adjustable from 0 degrees to 15 (0 1, 2, 3, ...15), not 0 OR 8 degrees like most pedals with float. If speeplay zeros are good enough for the last Great American Track Sprinter Marty Nortstein, then they are good enough for anyone else riding FG or racing track. The Zero has a free float not a springy float which is common with most pedal systems. You don't feel the tension until you are at the end of the float range, so your legs/knees are free to align themselves where they like (which is the purpose of float in the first place) with no tension at all. Feels weird at first, like it's not engaged but it is. The Zero is the most technically advanced pedal on the market as far as fitting goes. You cannot disengage from the zero by pulling up. The same cannot be said about Look, Shimano SPD-SL, Crank Brothers, Time, SPD, or other pedal systems. You will have to break the cleat or your shoe to disengage by pulling up. The ONLY way out is to twist. Speedplay Frogs are a MTB pedal. I've used them. They are OK, but the Zero is MUCH MUCH better. There is a reason why you can't find Zeros on sale or used for cheap...they hold their value. The only downside is that the engagement mechanism is attached to the shoe, so walking around is a pain. But, the same goes for any road pedal system. |
Originally Posted by xB_Nutt
(Post 10352438)
I have used Speedplay Frogs and the x zero (or something like that) for road bikes. I think there is to much unrestricted side to side float with Speedplays for riding fixed. Also the cleat design is not very low profile on the road pedals. I would recommend some Crank Bros pedals for fixed gear riding as they allow for float, but you have a much more solid feel to the attachment of the cleat to the pedal. Plus you can get into the Crank Bros for a lot less money.
Watch the Tour de France or any other major cycling race, you will see 45% Speedplay Zeros, 45% Dura Ace, and maybe 10% LOOK pedals. By the way, Lance Armstrong famously pulled out of some Dura Ace pedals at the start of his Time Trial in 2007 (I think). That won't (can't) happen with Speedplay Zeros. |
Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 10352780)
Wut? You obviously have no idea what you are talking about.
Speedplays have the BEST street/track clearance of ANY pedal out there. They also offer the MOST float at 15 degrees. What's more is that it is adjustable from 0 degrees to 15 (0 1, 2, 3, ...15), not 0 OR 8 degrees like most pedals with float. If speeplay zeros are good enough for the last Great American Track Sprinter Marty Nortstein, then they are good enough for anyone else riding FG or racing track. The Zero has a free float not a springy float which is common with most pedal systems. You don't feel the tension until you are at the end of the float range, so your legs/knees are free to align themselves where they like (which is the purpose of float in the first place) with no tension at all. Feels weird at first, like it's not engaged but it is. The Zero is the most technically advanced pedal on the market as far as fitting goes. You cannot disengage from the zero by pulling up. The same cannot be said about Look, Shimano SPD-SL, Crank Brothers, Time, SPD, or other pedal systems. You will have to break the cleat or your shoe to disengage by pulling up. The ONLY way out is to twist. Speedplay Frogs are a MTB pedal. I've used them. They are OK, but the Zero is MUCH MUCH better. There is a reason why you can't find Zeros on sale or used for cheap...they hold their value. The only downside is that the engagement mechanism is attached to the shoe, so walking around is a pain. But, the same goes for any road pedal system. |
I use Chromoly ZERO's on my Fixed and SS ZERO's on my road bike. SP Zero is the best pedal out there. I for one prefer them for adjustable float, base plates that allow near mid-foot mounting and the BEST shim for leg length discrepancies. They also allow dual sided entry which MOST road pedals do not.
ONLY downside, you must use Road specific shoes as a lot og FG riders I know prefer MTB shoes for walking. I tried the SP Frog MTB pedal and the cleat would NOT work properly with my Shimano M220 shoes. They are very finicky when setting up. Plus I agree with this: They also offer the MOST float at 15 degrees. What's more is that it is adjustable from 0 degrees to 15 (0 1, 2, 3, ...15), not 0 OR 8 degrees like most pedals with float. If speeplay zeros are good enough for the last Great American Track Sprinter Marty Nortstein, then they are good enough for anyone else riding FG or racing track. The Zero has a free float not a springy float which is common with most pedal systems. You don't feel the tension until you are at the end of the float range, so your legs/knees are free to align themselves where they like (which is the purpose of float in the first place) with no tension at all. Feels weird at first, like it's not engaged but it is. The Zero is the most technically advanced pedal on the market as far as fitting goes. You cannot disengage from the zero by pulling up. The same cannot be said about Look, Shimano SPD-SL, Crank Brothers, Time, SPD, or other pedal systems. You will have to break the cleat or your shoe to disengage by pulling up. The ONLY way out is to twist. |
Originally Posted by xB_Nutt
(Post 10352438)
I have used Speedplay Frogs and the x zero (or something like that) for road bikes. I think there is to much unrestricted side to side float with Speedplays for riding fixed.
Originally Posted by xB_Nutt
(Post 10352438)
Also the cleat design is not very low profile on the road pedals.
Here is the ZERO comapred to SPD-SL Pedals: Zero 11.5mm - SPD-SL 13.7mm |
The coolest part is that you can adjust the "heel in" and "heel out". This solves 2 problems.
Ever have the inside of the heel of your shoes clip your chain stay and have to consciously (until you subconsciously start to) hold them away from it? Turn the heel in screw and your heel will not be allowed to to touch the chain stay. Do you have sloppy sprint or climbing form and sometimes accidentally twist your foot too far outward and disengage? You can adjust the heel out further than you can twist while on the bike to where only a "pigeon-toed" twist can get you out. |
Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 10353009)
The coolest part is that you can adjust the "heel in" and "heel out". This solves 2 problems.
Ever have the inside of the heel of your shoes clip your chain stay and have to consciously (until you subconsciously start to) hold them away from it? Turn the heel in screw and your heel will not be allowed to to touch the chain stay. Then again, these are NOT for everyone. Number one complaint is cleats cost $$, wear and tear of the cleats, and dirt/maintenance of the springs for smooth operation. This is why I left them after trying them for a year years ago. BUT every other PRO sent me back! |
Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 10352780)
You cannot disengage from the zero by pulling up. The same cannot be said about Look, Shimano SPD-SL, Crank Brothers, Time, SPD, or other pedal systems. You will have to break the cleat or your shoe to disengage by pulling up. The ONLY way out is to twist.
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2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by scruggle
(Post 10353043)
but have no idea how you could disengage from a Time MTB pedal by pulling up without breaking the cleat or the shoe.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=135676 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=135677 |
Originally Posted by scruggle
(Post 10353043)
Are you talking about Time road pedals? I am not familiar with them, but have no idea how you could disengage from a Time MTB pedal by pulling up without breaking the cleat or the shoe.
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i don't really skid too often but if i did would would like it to not pull out. i don't care about weight at all, and even if it doesnt last me the longest time that would be ok since it would be first set of clipless and i could always upgrade to better ones later on.
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Originally Posted by DIRT BOY
(Post 10353065)
They TIME MTB pedals are similar in design to the crank brothers mech. a work cleat could lead to pulling out. same with SPD or SPD-SL
SPD-SL uses a LOOK style pedal. The cleat is actually plastic which is worn down. Off-brand LOOK/SPD-SL "compatible" cleats may wear down faster. |
Originally Posted by meatrat1@yahoo.
(Post 10353085)
i don't really skid too often but if i did would would like it to not pull out. i don't care about weight at all, and even if it doesnt last me the longest time that would be ok since it would be first set of clipless and i could always upgrade to better ones later on.
FYI: Cleats wear out just like brake pads, tires, etc... Replacing them is part of the total cost of ownership. |
Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 10353109)
You won't pull out with any quality pedal system unless you have bad form, worn out cleats, or are really, really strong. Don't worry.
FYI: Cleats wear out just like brake pads, tires, etc... Replacing them is part of the total cost of ownership. |
Originally Posted by meatrat1@yahoo.
(Post 10353119)
ok great, so what would you suggest for my first set then?
What is your budget? |
Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 10353137)
Do you have clipless compatible shoes? If so, what kind?
What is your budget? |
Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 10353109)
You won't pull out with any quality pedal system unless you have bad form, worn out cleats, or are really, really strong. Don't worry.
FYI: Cleats wear out just like brake pads, tires, etc... Replacing them is part of the total cost of ownership. |
Chromoly Speedplay pedals run about $118 new. Wait for Performance bike to offer 10-20% off and there you go. Decent Shimano road shoes another $89-175
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Originally Posted by meatrat1@yahoo.
(Post 10353085)
i don't really skid too often but if i did would would like it to not pull out. i don't care about weight at all, and even if it doesnt last me the longest time that would be ok since it would be first set of clipless and i could always upgrade to better ones later on.
You'll do fine with just mountain bike pedals. The only time I've unclipped unintentionally was when I twisted my foot mid-skid. I've also been riding SPDs daily for a year, and walking a lot with them, and no trouble yet. I just got cheap pedals and decent shoes for commuting and rec. riding because I had no reason to spend a lot. For racing I'm going to get better pedals and shoes. But if you have the money, go for what's superior. |
If you've already been down the Road vs MTB shoe debate and have settled on Road then Shimano makes some great entry level shoes and Performance has them at really, really great prices. There are some for $20 and $30 on PerformanceBike.com right now. Same prices in the store. PLUS Performance and Nashbar are the same company, so Performance will match Nashbar prices when you are in the store. Just bring it to their attention.
You can get the entry level Shimano PD-R540 SPD-SL which is a great pedal for $50 at Performance. These are often on craigslist for much cheaper if you keep your eyes out. But, remember when buying that you may have to buy fresh cleats for $25. I personally prefer the Speedplay Zero (obviously) but they start at $125 and you will never find these on sale. The only time you get price breaks is with some sort of "store-wide discount" of some sort. These are almost 3 times the price of the Shimano R540 and rarely show up on craigslist. |
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