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  1. #1
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    Need new chainring. Will any 130 work?

    Hey, awaiting my kilo tt next week. I know its gearing is really tall, and my area is realllyy hilly, so i'm looking to order a new chainring right now, so they both get here around the same time.

    Now, will any chainring with the correct bolt patter work? Like if i find one used on ebay for $5, and its a 130, will it just bolt right on?

    I really dont wanna spend $40 on a new one.

    Also, i have a bmx bike laying around, could it be possible that the freewheel on that will screw onto the kilo wheel? its a newer trek, im hoping it will. Seems like a high enough tooth count, and its in good shape, and free.

  2. #2
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Yes, any 130 bcd chainring will fit, but according to BD, the chain may either be 1/8 or 3/32, so if it's 3/32, then a 1/8 chainring won't work. Also, why don't you just change the cog, which is a lot cheaper?

  3. #3
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    yea i was thinking of that too, like to a 19 maybe? id have to see how i feel on it when it gets here, but my area has almost no flats, there always at least some kind of grade, hills big and small, and the kilo comes with 48/16 set up, which seems high.. i dunno..

  4. #4
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Yes, that's 81 gear inches, which is great for track riding, but too big for the road even on flat terrain. A 48 x 19 would give you 68 gear inches, which should get you up most hills. Actually, that's pretty close to what I ride, between 64 and 71 gi, although I have to deal more with wind than hills where I live. Remember to by a 3/32 cog, which will work with either a 1/8 or 3/32 chain. Also, you may have to add a link to the chain.

  5. #5
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    alrigth, nice i get it. But part of the reason why i wanted to go down with the chainring was the whole thing about altering the chain. If i get a smaller chainring i could most likely get away with positioning the wheel in the track stand to tigthten the chain, correct? But, well whatever i should just buy a chain tool and start doing all that work myself.

  6. #6
    Senior Member elemental's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vledaD View Post
    i should just buy a chain tool and start doing all that work myself.
    Yes, in the woods about five miles from your apartment is not a fun time to realize you don't have a chain tool when the a link on your rigid 29er SS explodes just as you crest a short steep bit of trail. I think I somehow bashed the inside of the chainring on one of the tricky rocks on the way up, bending a link which then blew apart during the very last mash up to the top.

    I was lucky enough to be riding with a teammate who had a chain tool, but even with the EBB all the way back the tension was still scary. I did manage to baby it back to the shop though.

  7. #7
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    You'd have to get a 40T chainring to get the same gearing as a 48x19, and the wheel would move so far back in the dropouts (track ends) that you'd probably have to remove chain links anyway. The only thing is that you may have to scrounge an extra chain link if you don't have an old chain lying around, and you won't know what size (1/8 or 3/32) you'll need until the bike arrives. You should get a chainwhip and lockring tool, and a chain tool.

  8. #8
    Fixed-gear roadie JacoKierkegaard's Avatar
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    Changing cogs will be much cheaper. Also, your BMX freewheel won't fit.
    2008 Masi Speciale Fixed

  9. #9
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    then i shall wait and see....

  10. #10
    Senior Member the_don's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vledaD View Post
    alrigth, nice i get it. But part of the reason why i wanted to go down with the chainring was the whole thing about altering the chain. If i get a smaller chainring i could most likely get away with positioning the wheel in the track stand to tigthten the chain, correct? But, well whatever i should just buy a chain tool and start doing all that work myself.
    I have no idea what you are saying...

    ... But I am sure it is wrong.

    Useful info on the subject (as I can't understand your direct question)

    1. Changing rear cogs has greater effect on your gearing, and affects the position the wheel will sit in the track dropout the least so you won't need to add or remove links.

    2. If you are wanting a freewheel, buy a freewheel remover. Shimano and Parktools are both good. Make sure you get a 4 prong tool and 4 notch freewheel. There are some older crappy 2 notch freewheels (usually on older BMX's) But finding a 2 prong tool is a nightmare. You will need a big wrench for this also. You can tighten and remove the freewheel with the tool. Pedalling forward will tighten the freewheel.

    3. If you want to go fixed, get a good lock ring tool and chain whip. It may cost a little more, but having a really big strong one makes life a lot easier.

    4. Get some good grease. I like Shimano Dura-Ace grease, but any thick bike grease will do. It may seem a little expensive, but even the smallest size will last you many years (depending on how much work you are doing). Grease put grease on most threaded parts of your bike. Because you are getting a Kilo TT and have to put it together, this is even more important.

    5. Go check out the Parktools website. They have lots of tutorials and guides of how to work on bikes and set them up properly. If you have a task in mind, always check there. Also check out the Sheldon Brown website too. In fact, bookmark them now. They will answer any technical question you could ever have.

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