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  1. #1
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    Converting Shimano Hyperglide to Singlespeed?

    Hey guys, I'm thinking of buying a new wheelset which comes with Shimano 105 (FH-1056) hub and a Shimano Hyperglide 8speed cassette.

    I understand that the Hyperglide system has different grooves, I've done some research but I can't seem to find what I need to know.

    - do normal singlespeed kits work with Hyperglide grooves?
    - if not, do specific ones exist for Hyperglide grooves?

    - then do I need to redish the wheel afterwards?


    another thing is, that hub is spaced to 130, but the frame it'll go into is spaced 120. would the spacing be adjustable on a hub like that (with a cassette)?

    thanks in advance for the replies, it's quite urgent!

  2. #2
    total idiot Jerr's Avatar
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    I believe that the hyperglide uses the small cog as the lockring, and so regular casette lockrings on conversion kits will not work. the cog should fit, though they are incompatible the other way around (hyperglide on a modern casette). depending on what the axle has for spacers, you might not have to re-dish. maybe consider respacing the frame?(only if it is steel) if it is quick release than you will need to cut the axle or replace it. I think converting those wheels will be more trouble than they are worth. Since you are buying new wheels, I suggest you reconsider. those wheels will be a major buttpain most likely.

  3. #3
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    oh hmmm..

    yeah, I'll be buying the wheels used for a price within my budget, building new wheels is out of the question as it'll shoot me over my budget.

    these are 650 wheels, and I'm having a hard time finding another pair of 650 wheels here so y'know, I don't mind doing the work, as long as it won't cost me a loooot of money to convert..

  4. #4
    AEO
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    jerr is mixing up UG and HG.

    those single speed kits will work, they're just washers that slide over the grooves entirely.
    shimano is still using HG with their 8/9/10sp road and MTB parts.

    maybe you're thinking of UG, uniglide?
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html

    to get a 130mm wheel into a 120mm dropout... that would be very difficult, but there's hope.
    http://surlybikes.com/parts/fixxer/
    you can thread on a freewheel to it.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
    http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm

  5. #5
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    wait, I'm thinking of unglide?

    unglide has the smallest cog that threads on right?
    hyperglide has a lockring that threads on the inside?

    can't I just use the lockring from the hyperglide cassette that comes on the wheel?

  6. #6
    AEO
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    uniglide is the one where the last cog threads on, yes.

    yes, you can just use the lockring from the HG cassette, but you'll never shorten the width by 10mm from that hub by using the HG freehub body.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
    http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm

  7. #7
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    You likely won't be able to effectively respace that wheel unless you replace the freehub body and axle. If you have a steel frame you may be able to spread the frame. But that's a pretty big spread. You'll almost certainly have to do it with in a permanent manner and not just push the wheel in.

    The singlespeed kit will work just fine. They're designed for exactly what you're doing.

    The best way to do this would be to rebuild the hub with a singlespeed specific hub made for 120mm spacing, this might require other things to get the chainline right. The next option would be to to use the existing hub but get a singlespeed specific freehub body (I know they exist but no clue where to get one). Park Tools instructions Then you would have to respace and redish the wheel.
    ClintonRH
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  8. #8
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    okay so if I decide to coldset respace the frame and not worry about the spacing on the hub, I can just get a singlespeed kit and call it a day?

  9. #9
    AEO
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    just watch out for your frame alignment when cold setting.
    Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
    http://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm

  10. #10
    Senior Member NinetiesKid's Avatar
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    You will definitely have to coldset that frame. And with 5mm each way, there could be some serious alignment problems. Follow sheldon's guide and if need be, take it to your shop. My frame is about 126 and it is a bit of a pain to get a 130mm old hub in.

    To convert it to a SS, all you need is a BMX cog and some cassette spacers, new chain, and keep whatever chainring you want on the crank.
    Quote Originally Posted by psyclistic View Post

    I'm going to be spending an exorbitant amount of money on electronics for this bike.

  11. #11
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    yeah I read the Sheldon thing on coldsetting, 5mm, is that really enough for a lot alignment issue? and how close to perfect does it need to me?!

  12. #12
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    You should aim for as close to perfect as you can get. Do it in little increments. Creep up on, don't just go for one big push. If it's a hair off it won't kill you and it's likely you won't notice unless you do lots of hands-free riding. Will it be noticeable? To some people yes, others no. Lots of new frames are a little off. If it's uneven by more than a tiny bit the bike won't track straight and it will be more likely to drop the chain.
    ClintonRH
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  13. #13
    total idiot Jerr's Avatar
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    yeah, I was confusing ug and hg, because I had a uniglide compatible hyperglide with the thread on cog. the respacing can be tricky because of the added stress on the hub. especially with the flexible qr hub. A shop near you might align the dropouts for you (after respacing).. park makes a tool for it. http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=40

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