Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 23 of 23
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    drive train slipping

    today i was trying to get started fast and it felt like my pedal slipped. then i pedaled hard again to get up a hill and it did it again. then track standing. then, just to be sure, i tried a little skid, and it did it again. the chain is properly tensioned... what's going on? something with the lock ring? how do i fix it?

    tx guys...

  2. #2
    Senior Member the_don's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tokyo
    Posts
    1,917
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Same thing happened to my friend riding uphill.

    i can only think that maybe the thread on the hub is at fault.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    oh no... meaning what? a new hub? rebuilding the wheel?

  4. #4
    GONE~
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    6,745
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Only way to find out is to take off your cog and lock ring and inspect.

  5. #5
    Elitist carleton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,706
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Your cog is slipping.

    Either:
    A) Take it to a shop and let them use a chain whip to tighten the cog and then tighten the [edit] lockring

    or

    B) Buy the tool(s) and do it yourself
    Last edited by carleton; 04-24-10 at 03:51 AM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    My Bikes
    1974 Urago Track
    Posts
    59
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    Your cog is slipping.

    Either:
    A) Take it to a shop and let them use a chain whip to tighten the cog and then tighten the cog

    or

    B) Buy the tool(s) and do it yourself
    Listen to this man, your cog is not on tight enough

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    would this be considered regular maintenance, ie: should i get a chain whip bc it's gonna happen again?

  8. #8
    Veteran Mother****er Scrodzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    My Bikes
    EAI Bare Knuckle / Leader 725 / 1975 Raleigh Professional Track
    Posts
    23,349
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)
    You should own both a chainwhip and a lockring tool. In actuality, though, the only time I've ever used my chainwhip was to install/remove a cog. I usually mash up a small hill after putting on a cog before tightening my lockring all the way. I know, I'm a cave-dweller. I use my lockring tool frequently to make sure that little bastard is snugged down tight like he should be.
    Last edited by Scrodzilla; 04-24-10 at 07:40 AM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    yep, was the lockring. it was loose, and had begun to chew up the threads, though not badly. got a trixie tool, chased the threads a bit with a dentist's pick, used scrod's method to tighten the cog, then the trixie to tighten up the new lockring. when this hub finally goes (it's an origin 8), i'm getting the wheel rebuilt on a phil wood; until then i'm keeping a close eye on the lockring. thanks guys!

  10. #10
    Senior Member Brian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Between the mountains and the lake.
    My Bikes
    8 bikes - one for each day of the week!
    Posts
    16,745
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    I'm a cave-dweller.
    ..

  11. #11
    Turgid Member TofuPowered's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Rock Hill, SC
    My Bikes
    Salsa Casseroll, Soma Rush, Fuji Tahoe 29er Pro
    Posts
    171
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    http://levelcomponents.com/index.html

    say goodbye to slipping drivetrains.

  12. #12
    Elitist carleton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,706
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by TofuPowered View Post
    http://levelcomponents.com/index.html

    say goodbye to slipping drivetrains.
    Say hello to:
    - Stripped heads on allen bolts
    - Proprietary cogs
    - Unadjustable play in the cog when the engagement points are worn.


    Drivetrains slip when not adjusted properly. The same goes for shoelaces.

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    Say hello to:
    - Stripped heads on allen bolts
    - Proprietary cogs
    - Unadjustable play in the cog when the engagement points are worn.


    Drivetrains slip when not adjusted properly. The same goes for shoelaces.
    agreed. i'm just going to keep an eye on the lockring, and get the phil wood when the time comes. i've never used my freewheel -- don't even have a cog on there -- so am thinking about a fixed-fixed. any suggestions on which one to use? also, why is the white one so much more expensive than all the others?

  14. #14
    Senior Member NateRod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    1,682
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I actually felt my cog slip last night as I did a skip stop when I arrived home. Tried my best to loosen the lockring in order to tighen the cog but goddamn, I really tightened that *****. Couldn't get it to budge.

    Could I tighten the cog without loosening the lockring? I'm thinking it's bad practice, but it's worth asking.

  15. #15
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
    My Bikes
    28 frames + 73 wheels
    Posts
    7,164
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by NateRod View Post
    I actually felt my cog slip last night as I did a skip stop when I arrived home. Tried my best to loosen the lockring in order to tighen the cog but goddamn, I really tightened that *****. Couldn't get it to budge.

    Could I tighten the cog without loosening the lockring? I'm thinking it's bad practice, but it's worth asking.
    Yes, because by tightening the cog you will be pulling it away from the lockring, and the lockring will loosen. Once you have properly retightened the cog, you can the retighten the lockring.

  16. #16
    Perineal Pressurized dobber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    In Ebritated
    Posts
    6,557
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    Say hello to:
    - Stripped heads on allen bolts
    - Proprietary cogs
    - Unadjustable play in the cog when the engagement points are worn.
    While any of these alternative mounting systems are solutions in search of problems, none of your points are valid. That is unless you're incapable of performing simple mechanical tasks.
    This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.

  17. #17
    Senior Member n8murphy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    boston
    My Bikes
    beat up khs
    Posts
    52
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    if you dont tighten it you will rip the treads from the lockring and the hub. the force of riding and stopping will push the lockring right off the threads cause the cog will spin freely.

  18. #18
    Elitist carleton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,706
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by dobber View Post
    While any of these alternative mounting systems are solutions in search of problems, none of your points are valid. That is unless you're incapable of performing simple mechanical tasks.
    What are you saying? On a cartridge system play will eventually develop between the cog and the hub as one or both of them begin to compress over time.. There is no mechanism to adjust for this. The bolts don't help because they act perpendicular to the cog and hub. Then when this happens the only solution is the replace the cog and/or hub.

    On a standard track cog/lockring system one can simply tighten both to eliminate play in the system which the OP did.

    As far as "simple mechanical tasks" go, screwing a cog clockwise then screwing a lockring counter-clockwise is as simple as it gets...unless you get confused about which way is clockwise.

  19. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    59
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    ..unless you get confused about which way is clockwise.
    There's a whole generation of kids now who don't understand why clockwise is clockwise... digital technology=no movement of hands=confusion when it comes to direction of rotation!

  20. #20
    .;/., cleanupinaisle3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    576
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Short of getting a chainwhip, you could rotafix it. Just be careful. There's plenty of torque to be had at that distance (rotating the wheel). And you'll still need a lockring tool.

  21. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by cleanupinaisle3 View Post
    Short of getting a chainwhip, you could rotafix it. Just be careful. There's plenty of torque to be had at that distance (rotating the wheel). And you'll still need a lockring tool.
    yep, that's what i did. so any takers on why the white phil wood is more expensive than the others, and which size fixed-fixed is best?

  22. #22
    .;/., cleanupinaisle3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    576
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a rear Phil Wood laced to a black B43. I'm not a discerning rider, so let me just say, I don't notice a difference from it and my Miche Primato hubs, or any other hubs for that matter. I used to run Origin 8's (which are just rebranded Formulas) like you, and I couldn't care less about going back. I doubt you'll notice that much of a difference if you haven't been riding for that long.

  23. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by cleanupinaisle3 View Post
    I have a rear Phil Wood laced to a black B43. I'm not a discerning rider, so let me just say, I don't notice a difference from it and my Miche Primato hubs, or any other hubs for that matter. I used to run Origin 8's (which are just rebranded Formulas) like you, and I couldn't care less about going back. I doubt you'll notice that much of a difference if you haven't been riding for that long.
    yeah i don't think i'll notice a difference either, just that from what i've read and heard, i won't have the same problems (beginning to strip out the hub) that i'm having with the Origin 8s) if i had a wheel built around Phil Woods

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •