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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 05-12-10, 12:59 AM   #1
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What do you think about these pricey cogs?

So I'm still fairly new to fixed gears.
Looking at these cogs.(wanting to splurge a little).
This Phil wood cog which just came out and isn't even on their website yet.....
Phil wood SLR track hub:

http://www.thebikebiz.com/product_p/trk-cog-phil04.

Or this cog from EAI
EAI Gold Medal Track Cog:

http://wheelgirl.typepad.com/web_log...randparen.html

I know both are prob overpriced bling. But do any of y'all have any experience with any of those?

They are about 15 bucks diff in price. What do you think?
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Old 05-12-10, 02:14 AM   #2
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I have a Gold Star. It's lasted me a couple years so far, with virtually no visible tooth wear (probably about 15K miles on it at least). The gold finish is worn. When I have to buy another cog, I'll probably just go back to the regular EAI one. Also, that Phil cog looks sweet.
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Old 05-12-10, 02:21 AM   #3
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Dont need a cog that expensive, ESPECIALLY if you're new.
Dura-ace, Surly, and EAI cogs can all be had for under $35

Dura-ace only goes up to 16t, so for something higher look at Surly cogs or EAI deluxe cogs.

You wont need anything more than that unless you're competitively track racing.

(I've got a DA 16t and a EAI 17t)
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Old 05-12-10, 02:36 AM   #4
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I have a Gold Star. It's lasted me a couple years so far, with virtually no visible tooth wear (probably about 15K miles on it at least). The gold finish is worn. When I have to buy another cog, I'll probably just go back to the regular EAI one. Also, that Phil cog looks sweet.
Thanks Lorok. First person that ive even heard of that has one. 15k miles? In two years?
Thats insane.....I was wondering if the gold would wear off. I guess with those type of miles it will. That Phil does look pretty sweet.
What kind of Chain are you running with that cog?
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Old 05-12-10, 06:26 AM   #5
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f50fan, it's not about what he needs; it's a "want some bling" thing.

Shortsocks, get whatever rocks your boat, either cog will work just fine. You'll need a shiny chain to go with it, and some good cranks. Better not have some crummy rattle can paint job or the effect will be lost and people will point and laugh at the poseur.

Unless you're going for that whole ironic thing.
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Old 05-12-10, 09:04 AM   #6
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f50fan, it's not about what he needs; it's a "want some bling" thing.[/IMG]
Wanting a "bling" cog is ********. The chain makes it dirty in 5 seconds and the polish is worn off after a few rides. A cog is the least recognized part on a bike and has basically no effect on what your bike looks like. The performance advantages of such an expensive cog are also highly questionable. If you want a smooth fast silent drive train, keep your chainline straight, replace your chain regularly, and keep it clean and lubed. Expensive cogs aren't made of magic metal either...they wear no slower than any other decent cog.
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Old 05-12-10, 11:04 AM   #7
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K. That's all I needed to know. I just needed a little input. I got a wicked good deal on CL on my fixed. So I had a little cash sitting around...I don't "need" to date a super model. But I'd like to know if there is anyone here that has......
In the end most good/ expensive cogs are just like over inflated big breasted women. You'll just need to replace them with a newer model over time....
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Old 05-12-10, 11:13 AM   #8
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Wanting a "bling" cog is ********. The chain makes it dirty in 5 seconds and the polish is worn off after a few rides. A cog is the least recognized part on a bike and has basically no effect on what your bike looks like.
^What he said. Once you put a chain on it, you can barely see it anyway. And unless your running a cog with 20+ teeth, the frame and hub virtually obscure any view of it when it's on the bike.
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Old 05-12-10, 11:13 AM   #9
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I have a Phil Wood cog and it's sexy. Been buttery from day one and it's kept its good looks.

I must disagree with mihlbach (who I respect) on this one. The Phil cog has worn noticeably slower than other cogs I've had, specifically a Surly cog which was fine in its own right. Higher quality parts, properly maintained, will wear more slowly than lesser parts. Cogs included.
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Old 05-12-10, 11:35 AM   #10
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I have a Phil Wood cog and it's sexy. Been buttery from day one and it's kept its good looks.

I must disagree with mihlbach (who I respect) on this one. The Phil cog has worn noticeably slower than other cogs I've had, specifically a Surly cog which was fine in its own right. Higher quality parts, properly maintained, will wear more slowly than lesser parts. Cogs included.
Well it makes sense. All my Phil wood parts seem to last longer than other parts that I have. Or maybe it's just that I end up taking more care of them because I know I paid so much for them. I guess if I take care of them that they will take care of me. I realize that most of these high end parts are most likely above my level of riding but it's a fuzzy feeling I get after I put them on and ride that brings me a little bit of satisfaction.

When I ride road, I feel as if the price difference is less noticeable,in parts, than in fixed gear. It may be, I think, that the simplicity of fixed gear parts and equipment have a bigger impact on performance and overall feel when concerned to parts. Less parts, more impact. Still cheaper than road to me.

Please inform me if I'm wrong.
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Old 05-12-10, 12:05 PM   #11
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it's a fuzzy feeling I get after I put them on and ride that brings me a little bit of satisfaction.
This is the most important part of cycling/any hobby.
If it makes you happy then it's worth it.

That being said, I'd go with the standard $30-35 EAI cog. I used one for a while as a messenger and it is still in great condition. Good price/product balance.
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Old 05-12-10, 01:49 PM   #12
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I have a Phil Wood cog and it's sexy. Been buttery from day one and it's kept its good looks.

I must disagree with mihlbach (who I respect) on this one. The Phil cog has worn noticeably slower than other cogs I've had, specifically a Surly cog which was fine in its own right. Higher quality parts, properly maintained, will wear more slowly than lesser parts. Cogs included.
Please clarify what you mean by higher quality. If the cogs are made of the same material with similar tolerances, I can't think of a reason why a shinier cog would wear more slowly given the same operating conditions. Is there a significant material difference between the Phil cog and Surly cog?
I have experienced variable wear rates among cogs. In particular I can think of a surly cog that I wore out very fast. Perhaps Surly cogs just suck. I've gotten many many more miles out of DuraAce, EAI, MIche, and other cogs. But in my experience, the wear rate of cogs generally seems less related to quality and more related to the different bikes they are on, which get ridden in different conditions (dry, wet, offroad, winter, etc.), and don't all get cleaned with the same regularity.

Last edited by mihlbach; 05-12-10 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 05-12-10, 02:07 PM   #13
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Thanks Lorok. First person that ive even heard of that has one. 15k miles? In two years?
Thats insane.....I was wondering if the gold would wear off. I guess with those type of miles it will. That Phil does look pretty sweet.
What kind of Chain are you running with that cog?
I use an Izumi Super Toughness chain, and a Sugino 75 chainring. The thing about the drivetrain is that they wear together. If I had a crappy chainring, it would wear my chain in it's unique crappy wear pattern. This chain wear would in turn wear the cog too. If you're looking at getting some bling, do it all, not just one part. Replace everything together, in other words.
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Old 05-12-10, 02:16 PM   #14
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but there is a difference between cheap cogs and expensive cogs. maybe not the material but definitely the finish. most cheap cogs aren't finished well, delivering a noisier ride. cogs on the pricier side have a better finish, which equals a not so noisy ride.
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Old 05-12-10, 02:16 PM   #15
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I use an Izumi Super Toughness chain, and a Sugino 75 chainring. The thing about the drivetrain is that they wear together. If I had a crappy chainring, it would wear my chain in it's unique crappy wear pattern. This chain wear would in turn wear the cog too. If you're looking at getting some bling, do it all, not just one part. Replace everything together, in other words.
Cool man. Perfect. I'll have the eai gold meadal cog on a Phil wood hub pulled by the izumi super toughness chain, attached by the Sugino zen chainring.... I think that's what I'm looking at. I just ordered the cog and chain.
You're a great help partner!!!!
I was wanting to build a perfect drive....

Thanks!!
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Old 05-12-10, 06:42 PM   #16
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Just want to add that EAI cogs (including the cheap non star ones) seem to last forever from my and many other people's experiences with them....
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Old 05-12-10, 07:06 PM   #17
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I have a Phil Wood 17T on my B43 and a $12 generic 17T on my Miche wheelset.

I don't notice a difference.

Just spend around $20-30 and get a decent cog. Dura Ace, Surly (which are super beefy), etc. No need to splurge, and no need to skimp. It's a few dollars of difference between a generic crap cog you can find in a bin, and a well-regarded branded cog, but a HUGE difference between those and the "nice" cogs.
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Old 05-12-10, 07:56 PM   #18
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I have a Phil Wood 17T on my B43 and a $12 generic 17T on my Miche wheelset.

I don't notice a difference.

Just spend around $20-30 and get a decent cog. Dura Ace, Surly (which are super beefy), etc. No need to splurge, and no need to skimp. It's a few dollars of difference between a generic crap cog you can find in a bin, and a well-regarded branded cog, but a HUGE difference between those and the "nice" cogs.
I already have a eai cog on mine. Just seems like it's almost done...bought the bike second hand. I'm getting the eai gold and the Izumi super v for a really good price.
So the deal was pretty good. Right time at the right place I guess......

We'll see how it rides, hopefully it's not raining in Dallas for a straight week after I get parts on it........wait it is going to be raining for a week. DAMN!!!

Why does this always happen after I get new parts?

Last edited by Shortsocks; 05-12-10 at 08:00 PM. Reason: Misspelled
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Old 05-12-10, 08:03 PM   #19
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I hear good things about the normal EAI cog.
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Old 05-12-10, 08:23 PM   #20
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I have an EAI cog (because I needed a certain T-number, and only EAI had them). They certainly are finely machined - but so are Dura Ace. And Dura Ace are actually cheaper than EAI.

Anyhow, anyone tried the Origin 8 Pro Pulsions?
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Old 05-12-10, 08:59 PM   #21
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Expensive cogs aren't made of magic metal either...they wear no slower than any other decent cog.

Please clarify what you mean by higher quality. If the cogs are made of the same material with similar tolerances, I can't think of a reason why a shinier cog would wear more slowly given the same operating conditions.

Quote taken from the second link in the first post.... a lot of automotive internal engine parts have special
coatings/platings that indeed do increase durability and wear-out times.... makes sense to me..!

Quote:
The EAI Gold Medal cog goes one step further than the EAI Super Star cog. This is why national track teams from all over the world are buying the Gold Medal cog from EAI, and you may even see the best track racers in the world riding this cog in the 2008 Olympics in Beijing, China . The cog is polished; the teeth are refined (by machine), and some hand finishing is done to ensure all is perfect. Then, the Gold Medal cog is coated with titanium nitride (TiN). This TiN coating, which gives the cog its lovely gold color, is used in Formula 1 race car transmissions. The TiN coating is so tough, it doubles the life of the cog and markedly reduces chain friction. (Yes, doubles the life of the cog.) The well-engineered tooth-shape of the cog is designed to be run with a high-quality 1/8th-inch track chain.
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Old 05-13-10, 01:25 AM   #22
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the basic eai cog is more than enough.
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Old 05-13-10, 01:25 AM   #23
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Phil Wood wisdom

As it states clearly on Phil Wood's site, the EAI, Surly cogs are not healthy for Phil Wood hubs.

I would double check that statement and be sure before putting your money into a cog that could potentially strip the threads of those Phil's. Personally, I would invest in a Phil cog. You ever touch or use one, you'll know why. I cringe when I see Phil hubs with EAI cogs. That EAI **** is junk.
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Old 05-13-10, 01:36 AM   #24
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k.
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Old 05-13-10, 02:14 AM   #25
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As it states clearly on Phil Wood's site, the EAI, Surly cogs are not healthy for Phil Wood hubs.

I would double check that statement and be sure before putting your money into a cog that could potentially strip the threads of those Phil's. Personally, I would invest in a Phil cog. You ever touch or use one, you'll know why. I cringe when I see Phil hubs with EAI cogs. That EAI **** is junk.
I've got a EAI black 18t on a Phil Wood hub right now. Haven't had any probs with it yet. I'll let you know the outcome. Also know of many a people who haven't had an issue as well...but with my luck I will prob have a issue this time around...

Sorry to make you cringe.
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