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  1. #1
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    Cog and Lockring Cost vs Quality?

    This might be a dumb question, but does it matter what kind of Cog and Lockring I get besides the number of teeth? Just checking out ebay and seeing differences in prices betweenn 1/8th 14t cogs, quality and resistance to stripping maybe?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Material matters too and some cogs are stamped.
    Shimano/Dura Ace lock ring is probably the best bang for the buck.
    As for cogs, I've only used two of them and I don't have anything to complain about either of them.
    Price and quality does not necessary correlate, but EAI cogs are good cogs to use. Of course they can cost up to 30 dollars or so.
    Stripping only occurs when you really messed up at installation, grease the threads of the hub and torque it down with a good chainwhip, grease the threads of the hub for the lockring as well and torque it down with a lockring wrench.

  3. #3
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    Get a Dura Ace lockring the first time around. Ive gone through other lockrings in seconds trying to unthread them with a lockring spanner only to have the notches on the ring scrape right off.

    As for cogs, there's already been much discussion on here about different cog quality. I would suggest going for at least a Surly or Dura Ace cog. I have a Dura Ace and just changed to an EAI for tooth count.

    Best advice: Dont go for those ebay bargain cogs and lockrings. Chances are you'll end up spending a lot more after they get damaged and you have to buy another one. Do it right the first time.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by f50fan View Post
    Best advice: Dont go for those ebay bargain cogs and lockrings. Chances are you'll end up spending a lot more after they get damaged and you have to buy another one. Do it right the first time.
    +1
    Do it right the first time or go home crying.

  5. #5
    THE STUFFED Leukybear's Avatar
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    A shimano dura ace lockring are a must; the price for one isn't half bad either.

    I would go with a Soma cog if you're looking to be somewhere in the middle between cost and quality/ durability. Otherwise it would be EAI which are a tad bit more expensive but also durable as hell.... I heard surly cogs are also durable but the price is close to that of EAI's....

  6. #6
    Senior Member bleedingapple's Avatar
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    what about soma lockrings?

  7. #7
    Riding Engineer Tomo_Ishi's Avatar
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    I usually use DA lockrings, but sometimes I need thicker lockrings such as Surly one. ... Do you guys get problems with DA lockrings not getting enough threads? (ie, Go on too far)

  8. #8
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    I do believe in theory anyway that the more expensive cogs are more true so your chain tension is more consistent and pedal stroke more even. A good lock ring just makes sense - safety issue and pain in the butt factor.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldfixguy View Post
    I do believe in theory anyway that the more expensive cogs are more true so your chain tension is more consistent and pedal stroke more even. A good lock ring just makes sense - safety issue and pain in the butt factor.
    Cog runout shouldn't be as much of an issue as it is on chainrings.

  10. #10
    Goon
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    I have a soma cog/lockring. Seems to be of good quality.

    Thinking I might spring for another soma cog (16t) so I can change my chainring from the 52t one I Have on there now to something more reasonable like a 46 (Which gives me the same Gear Inches +/- a few tenths).

    I feel like the Huge chainring looks silly on my bike.
    No matter how bad things get, they can't get any better, and they can't get any worse, things are what they are, so you better get used to it Nancy, quit your B*tchin'

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  11. #11
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    cg1985,

    No way. Huge chainrings look trick! Well, as long as you don't also have a huge cog. Boy, I had to pay attention to my spelling on that one.

  12. #12
    Goon
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldfixguy View Post
    cg1985,

    No way. Huge chainrings look trick! Well, as long as you don't also have a huge cog. Boy, I had to pay attention to my spelling on that one.
    Haha!

    Well I have 52/18. So it's not a "huge" cog, but not small either. the tip of the teeth is about even with the flange of the hub.
    No matter how bad things get, they can't get any better, and they can't get any worse, things are what they are, so you better get used to it Nancy, quit your B*tchin'

    -Church

  13. #13
    Don't Worry..Beef Curry
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    http://www.paulcomp.com/lockring.html

    FTW! if it's in your price range.

  14. #14
    Truck Driver Totaled108's Avatar
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    I have stripped a hub once from using a cheap lockring. It only engaged 2 1/2 threads out of the 5 on the hub, due to the cog hanging over the remaining threads. Bought the same formula hub new and a surly lockring with its lip to engage all of the threads. Its been working under far more harsh riding conditions then stripped the hub. I'm using the same cog as before, its steel, just not sure who makes it.

    I did my first ever hill climb and decent, brakeless, SPD clipless with a helmet. That was fun and scary on the first lap, then I didnt want to stop, its the best ride I have ever been on. Beats the heck out of roller coasters.

    The paulcomp ring are expensive, but I could see you might need them if your cog was thinner then the one on my bike.

    I don't think $14-$20 is that expensive for a great quality lockring, I paid $17 for it at a LBS.

    Yes, the first lock ring I used was installed correctly.
    Last edited by Totaled108; 06-02-10 at 02:43 PM.
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  15. #15
    old legs
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    once I figured out what I wanted/needed in the way of a cog I bought a Bens Cycle cog and lockring both are awesome and what really nice is I can easily check my lock ring tightness with the wheel still on the bike

  16. #16
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    surly cog/ DA lockring is what I have been using. Problem free so far

  17. #17
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    EAI cog and DA lockring. The lockring I am iffy about, though.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Totaled108 View Post
    I have stripped a hub once from using a cheap lockring. It only engaged 2 1/2 threads out of the 5 on the hub, due to the cog hanging over the remaining threads. Bought the same formula hub new and a surly lockring with its lip to engage all of the threads. Its been working under far more harsh riding conditions then stripped the hub. I'm using the same cog as before, its steel, just not sure who makes it..
    I once used a cheap cog/lockring combo on a Formula hub and stripped the hub on the first ride. I looked closely at my replacement DA cog/lockring compared to the cheapie and found that the threads on the cheapie weren't tall enough to make good contact with the threads on the hub. It was almost like they were cast instead of cut, they were that bad! And to make matters worse, the ebayer who sold me the hub also sold me the cog, and they should have known better than to peddle(!) such garbage. Needless to say they blamed my install and refused to replace the hub gratis.

    Bottom line: NEVER skimp on a cog/lockring set with aluminum hubs.
    1985 Nishiki Century/198? Miyata 610/19?? Omega 12/198? Univega Alpina Pro/198? Unknown MTB/1991 Koga-Miyata Randonneur Alloy/1996 GT Rage/199? DB "Frankencross"

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