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  1. #1
    ℞ ♥ squeegeesunny's Avatar
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    How do you lock your bikes?

    I'm pretty curious how my fellow BF members lock their bikes. As you know FG bikes have been getting popular, hence became a target for theft. I was wondering how you guys lock your bikes!


    Me: I live in a pretty low crime area. My town is pretty much flooded with walmart bikes locked horribly with a teeny weak combo cable. Alot of people just lock their tob tube to something flimsy and it makes me sad.

    (because since like no one steals bikes here): i use a Kryptonite Keeper 12 and a homemade chain lock for the front wheel. Yeah yeah, I know my chain lock can probably be broken by a bolt cutter in few seconds, but its just there as a deterrent anyways.


    U-lock through the seat tube and the rear wheel to a solid object. And the chain lock through my downtube and my front wheel -> to something solid.

    btw, anyone else use a homemade lock?



    Quote Originally Posted by Johhny B View Post
    dude u need that trixie tool its the best tool ever it even comes with a bottle opener ! dude all the messengers reccomended it to me and evr since i got it im basically a mechaninc now and all the bike shops want me.

  2. #2
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    Nevermind...



    I have one of these heavy duty bad boy, I lock it the same way you lock your front wheel, sometimes with my helmet.

    Have you read Sheldon's article on locking yet?
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
    Last edited by Squirrelli; 07-15-10 at 10:56 PM.

  3. #3
    ℞ ♥ squeegeesunny's Avatar
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    Yep, If I had a evolution mini or a FU mini I'd just do the rear wheel only, but since Keeper is much larger, I just do the seat tube also. Cant hurt!



    Quote Originally Posted by Johhny B View Post
    dude u need that trixie tool its the best tool ever it even comes with a bottle opener ! dude all the messengers reccomended it to me and evr since i got it im basically a mechaninc now and all the bike shops want me.

  4. #4
    Mission Creep wmgreene85's Avatar
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    I use sheldons method. However, I have heard you can saw through the back wheel, so im a little worried...

    But, I usually bring my bike in with me. I have almost 1600 put into it, and I dont like it being too far away from me

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by squeegeesunny View Post
    ... As you know FG bikes have been getting popular, hence became a target for theft.
    I laughed out loud. Then I cried like a baby. My guess is soon your town will experience things like color television sets, push button telephones and dry cleaners. Just like fixed/SS bikes these are good things. Do not be afraid. Embrace them all.

  6. #6
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    I don't think it's safe just locking the rear, I'd be worry more about the front rather than the rear. Since your frame has track ends, it's harder to take out the rear if they don't know how to lift up the chain, whereas the front is held together by two bolts, anyone with a wrench could run away with the wheel. You've said you live in a low crime area and there are many more easier targets than your dual locks, I would just go with that set up.

  7. #7
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    Evo mini around the seat tube.

  8. #8
    helmet brake jakerock's Avatar
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    1. I bring it inside.
    2. If leaving for ten minutes, mini U thru frame / rear wheel / immovable object
    3. 10 min to 1 hour, add second u lock securing front wheel to frame / immovable object.
    4. More than 1 hour, bring it inside / go home / check on it alot.
    Last edited by jakerock; 07-16-10 at 12:10 AM.

  9. #9
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    Depends on the circumstances. I always have a little cable lock on the bike, even on trips where I don't plan to stop anywhere. In our fairly safe area that's all I use when locking the bike for shopping trips, lunches, meetings, etc. But I also have a U-lock that I use if riding into the city (SF or Oakland) and will be leaving the bike locked up outside. The first time I used the U-lock was on a ride with a stop at a science museum in SF. Two people with me on the ride used their cable lock and when we came out my bike was the only one left.

  10. #10
    Senior Member apopuri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prathmann View Post
    Depends on the circumstances. I always have a little cable lock on the bike, even on trips where I don't plan to stop anywhere. In our fairly safe area that's all I use when locking the bike for shopping trips, lunches, meetings, etc. But I also have a U-lock that I use if riding into the city (SF or Oakland) and will be leaving the bike locked up outside. The first time I used the U-lock was on a ride with a stop at a science museum in SF. Two people with me on the ride used their cable lock and when we came out my bike was the only one left.
    woooow, thats terrible man.

    I use a Kryptonite Faggetaboudit Standard U-lock through the frame and back wheel. I run a Kryptonite cable through the front wheel and use the U lock to lock it down. Then of course the brooks saddle is slightly secured with a extra piece of chain wrapped in an a spare tire tube. I'll post a pic later tonight or tm.
    To be honest with you though, I'm seriously paranoid about theft. I got a bit of of lock envy in brooklyn. I'm thinking about upgrading. My lock set up looks seriously wimpy when you look at others in Brooklyn. Everyone has a huge chain lock making my little U-Lock look like a little biotch. Whatever, it works for now.
    Peugeot PX10 fixed, Bianchi Veloce fixed

    http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/74/tacowheel.jpg

  11. #11
    Senior Member Deshi's Avatar
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    Krypto 12mm cable through frame and wheels. Have yet to experience a bike being stolen so im not quite so paranoid about it I guess. It will be a hard lesson though.
    Quote Originally Posted by PedallingATX View Post
    dude...you can't "no ****" something THAT ****. That's like saying "sometimes I just like to make out with dudes...no ****"

  12. #12
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    I use the Kryptonite NY Standard U-lock for the seat tube, rear wheel, & whatever I'm locking to, and the evolution mini for the front wheel. I don't do anything to secure other stuff...although I have toyed with the idea of using superglue & ball bearings for some of the allen bolts but haven't decided whether it's worth the hassle (e.g. for the stem, seat post, and saddle).

  13. #13
    Nü-Fred ichitz's Avatar
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    mini Kryptonite Faggetaboudit U-lock thru rear wheel as Sheldon's method.
    cable thru frame, ulock, front and rear wheel.
    Quote Originally Posted by dsh View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by fixedgear80 View Post
    once you go fixed.....
    ...you generally go back in like a year.
    http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ig_mercier.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ig_3rensho.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ig_peugeot.jpg

  14. #14
    Senior Member TheBikeRollsOn's Avatar
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    Wait a second... you people lock your bikes? Doesn't that scratch the paint... **** that.

  15. #15
    Goon
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    I use sheldon's method.

    I had seen a video of someone sawing through the rear wheel to take the frame, however, that was on a cheap crappy mountain bike. with a fully tensioned road wheel, i would imagine the pinch on such a saw would make it almost impossible to saw through without first loosening the spokes.

    Additionally, my wheels are easily more valuable than the frame, so sawing through the rear wheel is going to severely cut into any profit they make.

    And if they recognize that they can't pull the rear wheel through the triangle, and thus wish to saw through the wheel, then the must know at least a little about bikes and realize that they'd be destroying the most valuable part of my bike, and thus simply not bother.
    No matter how bad things get, they can't get any better, and they can't get any worse, things are what they are, so you better get used to it Nancy, quit your B*tchin'

    -Church

  16. #16
    THE STUFFED Leukybear's Avatar
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    I usually get to keep mine inside at work.... but for a quick one I would usually have my mini evo 4 through the rear wheel and frame to unmovable object. For a longer time I would add on the accessory cable and/or even a second mini evo 4 LS (I have that one as a spare) depending on the location.

  17. #17
    helmet brake jakerock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cg1985 View Post
    I use sheldon's method.

    I had seen a video of someone sawing through the rear wheel to take the frame, however, that was on a cheap crappy mountain bike. with a fully tensioned road wheel, i would imagine the pinch on such a saw would make it almost impossible to saw through without first loosening the spokes.
    I dont understand what would be hard about cutting thru a wheel... Not arguing, but curious.

    Also, your logic about thieves not sawing thru "valuable" parts of a bike is a little weird.
    I get offered beautiful bikes that definitely are worth $500 from guys in the neighborhood about twice a year.
    Their asking price: $25 to $50.
    And other dudes collect scrap metal all day... Broken Ac units, rebar, f-ed up metal shelving.
    They will push it miles in a shopping cart. A bike that would get them $50 in one shot... Think about it.

    Anyway... Be careful and I hope everyones rides stay safely in your hands.
    Peace.
    Last edited by jakerock; 07-16-10 at 11:44 AM.

  18. #18
    chickenosaurus j3ffr3y's Avatar
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    I try to bring mine in with me everywhere, but if not, I sheldon lock the rear wheel, and lock my helmet to that.
    2010 Motobecane Team Track
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by gusmore View Post
    ...although I have toyed with the idea of using superglue & ball bearings for some of the allen bolts but haven't decided whether it's worth the hassle (e.g. for the stem, seat post, and saddle).
    Solder works too. I just did that on my bikes that I have everything set how I want it. They make solder wicking that soaks the solder back up when you want to get it out. 5 minutes....

    Also see:

    http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...om+a+locksmith
    Ride.
    Enjoy.
    Repeat.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by crawdaddio View Post
    Solder works too. I just did that on my bikes that I have everything set how I want it. They make solder wicking that soaks the solder back up when you want to get it out. 5 minutes....

    Also see:

    http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...om+a+locksmith
    Thanks!

    Solder sounds much easier. dumb question: what type of solder did you usee.g. lead, lead-free, silver alloy, etc? Also, did you have any problems with heating the allen bolt to a high enough temp to melt the solder?
    Last edited by gusmore; 07-16-10 at 12:38 PM.

  21. #21
    Hai?
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    I use a Krypyonite on the frame/backwheel connected with a Krytonite cable for the front wheel.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by prathmann View Post
    The first time I used the U-lock was on a ride with a stop at a science museum in SF. Two people with me on the ride used their cable lock and when we came out my bike was the only one left.
    Yup, the Academy of Sciences and the de Young Museum are a hot place for bike thieves. They specifically look for cable locks. So, ironically, cable locks act as an attractant rather than a deterrent out there.

  23. #23
    Oscillation overthruster Dr. Banzai's Avatar
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    Sheldon here. Wheel and frame. $15 MEC u-lock.

    If they want your bike they will take it. I prefer to limit the crack heads and teenagers who want a fixed rear wheel for their conversion.

    $100-$150 lock setup or $200 deductible and I can ride 30 pounds lighter? I dunno, just had so many bikes stolen over the years that I never le the bike out of my sight. Never had a lock defeated, it's always been a break in or me leaving it unattended for 2 minutes tops.

    Line of sight. Simple lock.

  24. #24
    extra bitter kyselad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakerock View Post
    I dont understand what would be hard about cutting thru a wheel... Not arguing, but curious.

    Also, your logic about thieves not sawing thru "valuable" parts of a bike is a little weird.
    I get offered beautiful bikes that definitely are worth $500 from guys in the neighborhood about twice a year.
    Their asking price: $25 to $50.
    And other dudes collect scrap metal all day... Broken Ac units, rebar, f-ed up metal shelving.
    They will push it miles in a shopping cart. A bike that would get them $50 in one shot... Think about it.

    Anyway... Be careful and I hope everyones rides stay safely in your hands.
    Peace.
    If someone really wants to get your bike, they can. It's just a matter of how much time and effort you can put between them and your bike.

    I've seen the video of a guy sawing through a locked wheel. If I recall correctly, it's sped up to make it look like it won't take very long. But either way, if somebody bothers to bring a saw and spend the time getting through the rim, most locks aren't going to fare much better. If there's another bike around and yours is relatively hard to liberate, chances are pretty good the thief will move on.

    Regarding front vs back, I'd be a lot more disappointed if someone took my back wheel, so if I'm just locking up one, it's the rear. Yes, unbolting the front isn't too tricky, but really, neither is the rear. Thieves may be dumb as a rule, but I don't think they'll be scratching their heads about how to remove an unlocked rear wheel -- getting the chain out of the way isn't exactly rocket science.

    Really, anything that's not locked, you shouldn't be surprised when it eventually disappears. For me, locking the front every time I park just isn't worth the effort where I live, and I'm okay knowing that my wheel may eventually get pinched as a result.

  25. #25
    . xavier853's Avatar
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    I usually just lock with one U-Lock around the frame and front wheel. But because my nicer ride is just about done (literally 1 piece waiting for in the mail ughhh) I have bought a second U-Lock for the rear wheel and frame.

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