Need help with schwinn varsity conversion
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Need help with schwinn varsity conversion
hey there,
I recently bought an old schwinn varsity. I want to turn it into a fixed gear/single speed.
All the parts are original except for the handlebars. The frame seems to be in good condition. It has a single piece crank.
It looks like I need to buy new wheels, but is there a way I can keep these wheels and just change the gears. I also think that the chain and gears I have now are not the same size as what i would need if i bought new wheels. What is my best course of action? I don't want to spend too much.
I recently bought an old schwinn varsity. I want to turn it into a fixed gear/single speed.
All the parts are original except for the handlebars. The frame seems to be in good condition. It has a single piece crank.
It looks like I need to buy new wheels, but is there a way I can keep these wheels and just change the gears. I also think that the chain and gears I have now are not the same size as what i would need if i bought new wheels. What is my best course of action? I don't want to spend too much.
Last edited by mr.patio; 07-15-10 at 07:21 PM.
#2
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well, the schwinn varsity isn't the best in the world, but it can still be done.
If you want to keep these wheels, you'll need to re-dish the rear one, and if you want it fixed, you'll have to get a new hub too.
If you want to keep these wheels, you'll need to re-dish the rear one, and if you want it fixed, you'll have to get a new hub too.
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The money you will spend on a new wheel set and any other part is more worth saving, and keep saving to buy a new bike.
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https://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/how-...onversion.html
You can use the old wheelset, yes. However, if you're new at this, I'll say that after doing an original 27" wheel conversion, I've discovered it's a hella lot more convenient to look for a used ss/fixed rear, paired with a cheaper 700c front since respacing can be a bear. Then it's a cog (one that is 3/32 or both 3/32 and 1/8 chain compatible) and lockring (if the used rear doesn't have both already) and some single chainring bolts if you want to remove the outer chainring. If your rear hub is a 120 and the rear dropouts have 126 spacing, a couple of 3mm spacers from the hardware store.
Oh, and be prepared to do some research, since Varsitys (Varsities?) seem to have non-standard parts, like a one-piece BB. You'd need a specific BMX type chainring that fits if you buy a new one. Old Ashtabula cranks also seem to not like fixed pedal braking, from what I've heard. You'll be overhauling old, old parts and likely soon replacing them anyway.
These bikes are *generally* pretty cheap, but a whole one all-stock in good shape would be $100-200 depending on condition and buyer. What I'm saying is that people have converted them (mmmm Lemon Yellow), but you might weigh the cost of a conversion on a very old, complete (and speaking of weight--a very, very heavy) bike vs. a cheaper, lighter frame with a standard BB and headset already on the bike and a wide availability of parts. Believe it or not, it'll actually be more cost effective to buy a used fixed/ss bike.
That being said, congrats on your find. Google a bit, and you'll find forums where people have a strange affection for Schwinns, even the low-end bikes.
You can use the old wheelset, yes. However, if you're new at this, I'll say that after doing an original 27" wheel conversion, I've discovered it's a hella lot more convenient to look for a used ss/fixed rear, paired with a cheaper 700c front since respacing can be a bear. Then it's a cog (one that is 3/32 or both 3/32 and 1/8 chain compatible) and lockring (if the used rear doesn't have both already) and some single chainring bolts if you want to remove the outer chainring. If your rear hub is a 120 and the rear dropouts have 126 spacing, a couple of 3mm spacers from the hardware store.
Oh, and be prepared to do some research, since Varsitys (Varsities?) seem to have non-standard parts, like a one-piece BB. You'd need a specific BMX type chainring that fits if you buy a new one. Old Ashtabula cranks also seem to not like fixed pedal braking, from what I've heard. You'll be overhauling old, old parts and likely soon replacing them anyway.
These bikes are *generally* pretty cheap, but a whole one all-stock in good shape would be $100-200 depending on condition and buyer. What I'm saying is that people have converted them (mmmm Lemon Yellow), but you might weigh the cost of a conversion on a very old, complete (and speaking of weight--a very, very heavy) bike vs. a cheaper, lighter frame with a standard BB and headset already on the bike and a wide availability of parts. Believe it or not, it'll actually be more cost effective to buy a used fixed/ss bike.
That being said, congrats on your find. Google a bit, and you'll find forums where people have a strange affection for Schwinns, even the low-end bikes.
Last edited by KDNYC; 07-15-10 at 08:40 PM.
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To be honest, schwinns are more work than they are worth converting. Especially if you want to replace the crank. Not too hard to do, but you will end up buying all new parts. I've built a schwinn world sport conversion.
Save your money and get a BD bike.
Save your money and get a BD bike.
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Along these lines has anyone put a front brake on a schwinn super sport or any schwinn from the 70s with 700c wheels, if so what brakes did you use. I went into my LBS and the guy was an a$s in telling me it couldnt be done however, I have seen it done but not sure what components were being used
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Along these lines has anyone put a front brake on a schwinn super sport or any schwinn from the 70s with 700c wheels, if so what brakes did you use. I went into my LBS and the guy was an a$s in telling me it couldnt be done however, I have seen it done but not sure what components were being used
I have an early 70's Sekai that I converted with 700c wheels, and the Tektro R556's worked great for me. Velo Orange has them in a nutted version if you don't want to drill the fork and/or frame out. Otherwise you could use a drop bolt- https://sheldonbrown.com/dpdropbolt.html
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Varsity's and World Sports may suck ass, but my Sports Tourer is an amazing frame, and I don't know anyone who would kick a Waterford Paramount out of bed.
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https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=9985
So this is the same off bens cycle for just one? What would I have to drill out on the fork and why?
So this is the same off bens cycle for just one? What would I have to drill out on the fork and why?
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https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=9985
So this is the same off bens cycle for just one? What would I have to drill out on the fork and why?
So this is the same off bens cycle for just one? What would I have to drill out on the fork and why?
The hole on the backside of the fork will most likely need to be enlarged for the recessed mounting nut. Old school brakes didn't use a recessed nut, so the holes on the front and back sides of the fork were the same size. Easy fix, just need the correct size drill bit (8mm??).
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Just thought of this but and i going to need this
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...teel-brake-nut
Im not sure when you use those, but i dont want to order brakes, wait a week for shipping then realize i need a longer bolt and have to wait another week
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...teel-brake-nut
Im not sure when you use those, but i dont want to order brakes, wait a week for shipping then realize i need a longer bolt and have to wait another week
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I have an early 70's Sekai that I converted with 700c wheels, and the Tektro R556's worked great for me. Velo Orange has them in a nutted version if you don't want to drill the fork and/or frame out. Otherwise you could use a drop bolt- https://sheldonbrown.com/dpdropbolt.html
#16
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Just thought of this but and i going to need this
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...teel-brake-nut
Im not sure when you use those, but i dont want to order brakes, wait a week for shipping then realize i need a longer bolt and have to wait another week
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...teel-brake-nut
Im not sure when you use those, but i dont want to order brakes, wait a week for shipping then realize i need a longer bolt and have to wait another week
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