Specialized Langster vs IRO Mark V
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Specialized Langster vs IRO Mark V
I was set on getting a IRO until I saw that a local LBS was clearing out 2010 Langsters for $585.
Mark V Singlespeed
Specialized Langster 2010
Langster comes standard with flip-flop hubs. Mark V can be outfitted with flip-flop for extra $24. Both are completely black, extra $25 for IRO.
Total cost for Langster would be $640. Mark V shipped would be $540.
Sooo, the question is should I go for the aluminum or the steel frame? Component-wise, which is the better one? I think the IRO is more track-driven geometry.
I read some of the comments on how a true FG/SS should be thin (steel) and have a non-sloping top tube. I ride a Specialized Stumpjumper hardtail right now and like it a lot. This will be my first SS bike. In fact first road bike in many years.
Kinda leaning towards the Mark V unless convinced otherwise.
Mark V Singlespeed
Specialized Langster 2010
Langster comes standard with flip-flop hubs. Mark V can be outfitted with flip-flop for extra $24. Both are completely black, extra $25 for IRO.
Total cost for Langster would be $640. Mark V shipped would be $540.
Sooo, the question is should I go for the aluminum or the steel frame? Component-wise, which is the better one? I think the IRO is more track-driven geometry.
I read some of the comments on how a true FG/SS should be thin (steel) and have a non-sloping top tube. I ride a Specialized Stumpjumper hardtail right now and like it a lot. This will be my first SS bike. In fact first road bike in many years.
Kinda leaning towards the Mark V unless convinced otherwise.
Last edited by lwlee; 08-07-10 at 02:10 PM. Reason: Bike porn
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Langster: Slightly road oriented geometry, Sugino Messenger cranks and arms, Sugino BB, Flip Flop hub, Carbon fiber fork and seatpost, weighs alot less than the Mark V
Iro: Cheaper, More true track geometry, Good quality components but nothing performance spec, no flip flop, steel.
Basically: Langster+Iro=GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
If you want the faster lighter bike get the langster. If you want something your not gonna be upset if you scratch, then the iro. Both are great great bikes its just how your gonna use it.
Iro: Cheaper, More true track geometry, Good quality components but nothing performance spec, no flip flop, steel.
Basically: Langster+Iro=GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
If you want the faster lighter bike get the langster. If you want something your not gonna be upset if you scratch, then the iro. Both are great great bikes its just how your gonna use it.
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I would recommend the Mark V Fixed pre build, it is $100 cheaper and basically stocked with the exact components sans brakes and a freewheel. Both of which could be bought separately for a lower price.
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1688
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1688
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Sugino parts are nice.
Mark V is listed at 18.75 lbs. Specialized doesn't list the Langster but searching the web, I found a mention that it was around the same weight. Am I missing something?
Another post says IRO will do flip-flops for the pre-built for extra $24, so I included that in the cost.
I ride in NYC. Don't know if steel will make that much a difference versus al/carbon.
Mark V is listed at 18.75 lbs. Specialized doesn't list the Langster but searching the web, I found a mention that it was around the same weight. Am I missing something?
Another post says IRO will do flip-flops for the pre-built for extra $24, so I included that in the cost.
I ride in NYC. Don't know if steel will make that much a difference versus al/carbon.
Langster: Slightly road oriented geometry, Sugino Messenger cranks and arms, Sugino BB, Flip Flop hub, Carbon fiber fork and seatpost, weighs alot less than the Mark V
Iro: Cheaper, More true track geometry, Good quality components but nothing performance spec, no flip flop, steel.
Basically: Langster+Iro=GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
If you want the faster lighter bike get the langster. If you want something your not gonna be upset if you scratch, then the iro. Both are great great bikes its just how your gonna use it.
Iro: Cheaper, More true track geometry, Good quality components but nothing performance spec, no flip flop, steel.
Basically: Langster+Iro=GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
If you want the faster lighter bike get the langster. If you want something your not gonna be upset if you scratch, then the iro. Both are great great bikes its just how your gonna use it.
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I'm going with the flip-flop to hedge my bet. New to SS/FG so don't know what the practical implication are for FG, i.e. will I be out of control on a steep downhill :-)
I would recommend the Mark V Fixed pre build, it is $100 cheaper and basically stocked with the exact components sans brakes and a freewheel. Both of which could be bought separately for a lower price.
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1688
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1688
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I haven't ridden the IRO, but just bought the '10 black Langster last week and couldn't be happier! It's super light-weight and looks pretty cool too. It's my first SS as well and after riding my Specialized Hardrock for the past 4 years and going to this it's insanely fast compared to my MTB (obviously). My vote's for the Langster, although I do have some bias. Good luck with whichever you choose!
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^Although I wish my LBS had been selling the '10's that cheap
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IRO hubs are already flip flops, you don't have to worry about that.
I don't see the point of buying the same bike with brakes for $100 more when I can buy a set of brakes for $45.
I don't see the point of buying the same bike with brakes for $100 more when I can buy a set of brakes for $45.
Last edited by Squirrelli; 08-07-10 at 01:30 PM.
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Are u sure about that? It's only listed as freewheel. No mention of fixed gear or the FG size.
Just want stock for now and will upgrade when I deem necessary.
Just want stock for now and will upgrade when I deem necessary.
#10
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I have an older Langster and love it. Like was said before, more of a road bike geometry so switching back and forth between it and my roadies is easy.
#11
Spin Meister
lwlee wrote: "I read some of the comments on how a true FG/SS should be thin (steel) and have a non-sloping top tube"
I've read some of the comments on how a true poster here would not ask questions about FG/SS fashion. ;-)
The OP should check out the concept behind the "No True Scotsman" fallacy:
Teacher: All Scotsmen enjoy haggis.
Student: My uncle is a Scotsman, and he doesn't like haggis!
Teacher: Well, all true Scotsmen like haggis.
I've read some of the comments on how a true poster here would not ask questions about FG/SS fashion. ;-)
The OP should check out the concept behind the "No True Scotsman" fallacy:
Teacher: All Scotsmen enjoy haggis.
Student: My uncle is a Scotsman, and he doesn't like haggis!
Teacher: Well, all true Scotsmen like haggis.
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This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
#12
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It would be an easy decision for me. IRO all the way, and then spend the extra to upgrade some components.
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I'm not a conformist which is why I'm checking out the Langster. Right now, practically speaking, the steel might be better for NYC streets. They are both beautiful looking bikes. Tho I think cross levers look cooler than the drop levers.
Why did IRO stop making aluminum bikes? No demand?
Why did IRO stop making aluminum bikes? No demand?
lwlee wrote: "I read some of the comments on how a true FG/SS should be thin (steel) and have a non-sloping top tube"
I've read some of the comments on how a true poster here would not ask questions about FG/SS fashion. ;-)
The OP should check out the concept behind the "No True Scotsman" fallacy:
Teacher: All Scotsmen enjoy haggis.
Student: My uncle is a Scotsman, and he doesn't like haggis!
Teacher: Well, all true Scotsmen like haggis.
I've read some of the comments on how a true poster here would not ask questions about FG/SS fashion. ;-)
The OP should check out the concept behind the "No True Scotsman" fallacy:
Teacher: All Scotsmen enjoy haggis.
Student: My uncle is a Scotsman, and he doesn't like haggis!
Teacher: Well, all true Scotsmen like haggis.
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Done a decent amount of research. Right now, looking more at the geometry and trying to decide how many teeth on the cogs, etc.
One other option which I initially dismissed was that the shop also had the 2010 Langster Steel for about $580. I didn't like the red color. But now looking more closely at it, the deep aero wheels are pretty cool.
The frame is 520 Reynolds. How does this stack up against the IRO?
2010 Langster Steel
One other option which I initially dismissed was that the shop also had the 2010 Langster Steel for about $580. I didn't like the red color. But now looking more closely at it, the deep aero wheels are pretty cool.
The frame is 520 Reynolds. How does this stack up against the IRO?
2010 Langster Steel
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I think that it depends on what you want to use the bike for. Personally I don't feel comfortable riding a carbon fiber fork in the street. I hit too many god damn potholes and end up hoping too many curbs to where I get paranoid doing it. The big prob with carbon fiber IMHO is that it doesn't show any signs of wear before one it just shatters. With steel, if it gets hit badly enough to compromise the integrity of the fork it will be obviously dented.
If you are doing more road riding or are mainly going to be riding on streets without a lot of potholes than I'd go for the langster. Also, the steel langster is ****ing hot!!!!
*disclaimer- happy IRO owner
P.S. Reynolds 520 is exactly the same as the 4130 cro-mo that the IRO is made with
If you are doing more road riding or are mainly going to be riding on streets without a lot of potholes than I'd go for the langster. Also, the steel langster is ****ing hot!!!!
*disclaimer- happy IRO owner
P.S. Reynolds 520 is exactly the same as the 4130 cro-mo that the IRO is made with
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that steel Langster looks hawt.
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$600 for a Langster is a deal I wouldn’t pass up (I didn’t – that is why I own one).
It isn’t at all track geometry. The bottom bracket is too low, and the head tube is too high. Its fairly relaxed in that regard. What sold me on the bike is the way it handles. It really carves well, very light, and very responsive.
Similarly equipped the steel bike is going to be a few pounds heavier (both the steel langster and steel IRO).
If you are going to be beating on the bike (torn up roads), the steel bikes would be better, although the Langster rides very nice (mine came with carbon seat post and fork). The Langster really needs 23 or maybe 25mm tires, you can go bigger on the IRO – that might make a difference. I squeezed some 28mm on my Langster (because of the crappy roads I ride), but that forces me to be in the back half of the rear fork, and required some filing of the brakes to get the clearance needed.
I love the way the langster rides – I use it for short commutes with lots of turns and for longer centuries (the gearing is perfect). Ultimately it is how the bike rides that is going to answer your question.
Now, if I could just find a way to get the langster paint off of the bike – that look silly.
It isn’t at all track geometry. The bottom bracket is too low, and the head tube is too high. Its fairly relaxed in that regard. What sold me on the bike is the way it handles. It really carves well, very light, and very responsive.
Similarly equipped the steel bike is going to be a few pounds heavier (both the steel langster and steel IRO).
If you are going to be beating on the bike (torn up roads), the steel bikes would be better, although the Langster rides very nice (mine came with carbon seat post and fork). The Langster really needs 23 or maybe 25mm tires, you can go bigger on the IRO – that might make a difference. I squeezed some 28mm on my Langster (because of the crappy roads I ride), but that forces me to be in the back half of the rear fork, and required some filing of the brakes to get the clearance needed.
I love the way the langster rides – I use it for short commutes with lots of turns and for longer centuries (the gearing is perfect). Ultimately it is how the bike rides that is going to answer your question.
Now, if I could just find a way to get the langster paint off of the bike – that look silly.
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Disclosure - I own a Langster, only ridden a MarkV a few times.
Both bikes steer and ride nicely. The Langster does not ride harshly at all. Its been a while since I have been on an IRO, and a lot of it could come down to fit between the bikes. So although my own bike (a sub 16.5 lb Langster) may feel nimble and smooth,.... its been a while since I have been on a stock Langster. I recall the bike is a lot less willing to go with the stock components. The wheelset/tires alone I dropped over a pound probably more. That makes a big difference in how things ride and how things spin up.
The Langster can be made into a rocketship. I did a group ride, running a 48/16 and was able to keep pace with no issue. I am absolutely sure that the IRO could do the same,... but it all depends on what you want to do wth the bike. Track geometry, to me, has zero value. I run brakes, I run a freewheel, I run QR's, and I will never run on the track. I do faster group rides with other roadies, I run SS on MTB as well as a FS MTB.
So ride both in stock forms. But if you want ultimate and outright speed on the street, I think the Langster is your better choice. It is a stiffer (bb) and lighter platform to build a bike out of. Ultimately, you can make the Langster a TINY bit faster than an IRO.... but if Lance were to ride either, it really would not matter.
Both bikes steer and ride nicely. The Langster does not ride harshly at all. Its been a while since I have been on an IRO, and a lot of it could come down to fit between the bikes. So although my own bike (a sub 16.5 lb Langster) may feel nimble and smooth,.... its been a while since I have been on a stock Langster. I recall the bike is a lot less willing to go with the stock components. The wheelset/tires alone I dropped over a pound probably more. That makes a big difference in how things ride and how things spin up.
The Langster can be made into a rocketship. I did a group ride, running a 48/16 and was able to keep pace with no issue. I am absolutely sure that the IRO could do the same,... but it all depends on what you want to do wth the bike. Track geometry, to me, has zero value. I run brakes, I run a freewheel, I run QR's, and I will never run on the track. I do faster group rides with other roadies, I run SS on MTB as well as a FS MTB.
So ride both in stock forms. But if you want ultimate and outright speed on the street, I think the Langster is your better choice. It is a stiffer (bb) and lighter platform to build a bike out of. Ultimately, you can make the Langster a TINY bit faster than an IRO.... but if Lance were to ride either, it really would not matter.
#25
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