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  1. #1
    yesterday you said tom.
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    Do I have the right chain tool for 1/2 x 1/8 chain?

    So I have a SRAM 1/8 PC-7x chain

    I also have a Park CT-3 chain tool

    Do I have the correct chain tool or do I need to get the Park CT-7? Someone please enlighten my ass. I'm gonna be pissed if I bought the wrong chain tool.

  2. #2
    Senior Member NinetiesKid's Avatar
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    Park tool's website says you need the CT-7 for "wide 3/16 inch and 1/8 inch chains"

    Many online retailers claim it works with "many 1/8 inch and bmx chains"

    You already ordered it, just wait and try her out br0!
    Quote Originally Posted by psyclistic View Post

    I'm going to be spending an exorbitant amount of money on electronics for this bike.

  3. #3
    :)
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    http://www.parktool.com/products/det...at=5&item=CT-3

    The CT-3 is intended for derailleur type chain, either 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10 speeds. For 11 speed use the CT-4.2.
    Are you just shortening?
    Quote Originally Posted by Santaria View Post
    because physics has more street cred than tarckstars.

  4. #4
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Some 1/8 chains work with derailleur chain tools and some don't. Have you tried to use the CT-3 tool with your PC-7X chain?
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  5. #5
    yesterday you said tom.
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    Yeah i believe I will just need it to shorten, so I guess it'll serve it's purpose or..?

  6. #6
    yesterday you said tom.
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    I tried it, pushes the pin out ok. But it seems like when I pushed it back in it caused a little bit of the pin or link to shave off a tiny bit of metal. DOes that make sense? Also, the link also became very stiff, which i know sometimes happens.

  7. #7
    Nü-Fred ichitz's Avatar
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    i have the ct-5 which i guess is the portable version of ct-3. I can push 1/2" pins out but never back in...
    Quote Originally Posted by dsh View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by fixedgear80 View Post
    once you go fixed.....
    ...you generally go back in like a year.
    http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ig_mercier.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ig_3rensho.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ig_peugeot.jpg

  8. #8
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitekimchee View Post
    I tried it, pushes the pin out ok. But it seems like when I pushed it back in it caused a little bit of the pin or link to shave off a tiny bit of metal. DOes that make sense? Also, the link also became very stiff, which i know sometimes happens.
    To loosen the stiff link, place the chain on the spreader part of the chain tool, and push the pin just enough to remove the tightness. If you don't have a spreader on your tool, grab the chain with both hands on either side of the tight link, and flex the chain sideways back and forth.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  9. #9
    yesterday you said tom.
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    yeah TT i tried that, didn't work. It's ok I think I'm gonna just remove that link cuz I'm probably going have to shorten the chain anyway.

    But for future chain maintenance should I get a different tool?

  10. #10
    Fresh Garbage hairnet's Avatar
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    check bicycletutor.com on how to fix the stiff link. It's really easy. If you can take the link out with that tool then just use that
    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    I'd rather ride a greasy bowling ball than one of those things.
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  11. #11
    Senior Member six30nine's Avatar
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    I have a CT-3 and it works with my SRAM PC-1 1/8" chain, so I'm guessing it will work with a PC-7x chain.

  12. #12
    :)
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitekimchee View Post
    I tried it, pushes the pin out ok. But it seems like when I pushed it back in it caused a little bit of the pin or link to shave off a tiny bit of metal. DOes that make sense? Also, the link also became very stiff, which i know sometimes happens.

    IMO, just use the master link. You probably have a weak point (link) on your chain if the pin was forced through the plate. Might be fine, might fail eventually (or tomorrow), I would just take that link out, toss it in the trash and put the master link in.

    ....especially if you don't run brakes.
    Quote Originally Posted by Santaria View Post
    because physics has more street cred than tarckstars.

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