Cheapest Place to Buy Veocities
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Cheapest Place to Buy Veocities
Where is the cheapest place to purchase deep-v's or b43's online? How about DT spokes? Thanks in advance.
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@Xgecko: whats the point of the spoke cutter if i get the right length spoke by using a spoke length calculator?
@Capocaccia: which part is the hardest part? wheel truing?
@Capocaccia: which part is the hardest part? wheel truing?
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its better to pay someone money if you dont know how to do it.
youll end up crashing and dying between a train and a mac truck and then pedro will jump over and eat your taco'd wheels for lunch!
youll end up crashing and dying between a train and a mac truck and then pedro will jump over and eat your taco'd wheels for lunch!
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We'll I've been watching tutorials online and from what I see the truing is the only thing that looks hard and time consuming
#12
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I began building my own wheels 30+ years ago. I'm completely self-taught, based on reading some books on wheel-building, and never had one fail on me. As long as you are using at least 28 spokes and at least 2 cross lacing, you should have no serious problems. As far as wheel truing is concerned, the best thing is to get or fashion a wheel truing stand.
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I will also offer some encouragment.
Read Sheldon Browns words on it, and get a copy of Jobst Brandt's book. I've build only a handfull of wheels, and have had great luck with each build.
https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-.../dp/0960723668
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
I have the brandt book open to the step-by-step instructions the entire time I'm lacing the wheel. It's really only a four step process to get all the spokes in the right spot... then the truing.
Make sure you use spoke prep on the treads of each spoke. Make sure you use the right length spokes. Linseed oil or similar should go everywhere metal touches metal...
When truing, if you have the right length spokes and a round wheel, counting nipple turns - and keeping them all consistent during the tensioning process - will typically result in a nearly true rim by the time things are tight. I take my time and turn each nipple 1/2 rotation at a time. Start at the valve to keep track. Once things get tighter, I go to 1/4 turn for each spoke. The key to this working, is making sure you start with the same number of threads peaking out of each nipple after the wheel has been laced.
Using a tension-meter (cheap ones work fine) will help to build a strong wheel... but not necessarily a round one. It depends on the quality (roundness) of the rim you start with.
Grab a handfull of spokes and and squeeze tight after each round of tensioning to aid in de-stressing them. Pushing along the edge of the rim with the tip of the axle against the floor accomplishes the same. do both. gently. kind of. Don't bend stuff.
It's not a black art... It's hardly even a science. It's just a process.
Be patient and pay attention. It's worth the time and effort (not to mention money) and is a very fulfilling accomplishment.
Unless you do something really stupid, you can always tear it all down and try again.
Good luck!
Read Sheldon Browns words on it, and get a copy of Jobst Brandt's book. I've build only a handfull of wheels, and have had great luck with each build.
https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-.../dp/0960723668
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
I have the brandt book open to the step-by-step instructions the entire time I'm lacing the wheel. It's really only a four step process to get all the spokes in the right spot... then the truing.
Make sure you use spoke prep on the treads of each spoke. Make sure you use the right length spokes. Linseed oil or similar should go everywhere metal touches metal...
When truing, if you have the right length spokes and a round wheel, counting nipple turns - and keeping them all consistent during the tensioning process - will typically result in a nearly true rim by the time things are tight. I take my time and turn each nipple 1/2 rotation at a time. Start at the valve to keep track. Once things get tighter, I go to 1/4 turn for each spoke. The key to this working, is making sure you start with the same number of threads peaking out of each nipple after the wheel has been laced.
Using a tension-meter (cheap ones work fine) will help to build a strong wheel... but not necessarily a round one. It depends on the quality (roundness) of the rim you start with.
Grab a handfull of spokes and and squeeze tight after each round of tensioning to aid in de-stressing them. Pushing along the edge of the rim with the tip of the axle against the floor accomplishes the same. do both. gently. kind of. Don't bend stuff.
It's not a black art... It's hardly even a science. It's just a process.
Be patient and pay attention. It's worth the time and effort (not to mention money) and is a very fulfilling accomplishment.
Unless you do something really stupid, you can always tear it all down and try again.
Good luck!
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@ThePritchett: Thank you for the information!
I am going to build a rear flipflop wheel. Since the back hub's drive train can be on either side, does that mean the spoke length's for both sides are the same?
I am going to build a rear flipflop wheel. Since the back hub's drive train can be on either side, does that mean the spoke length's for both sides are the same?
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Assuming the hub is symmetrical, meaning that each flange is the same distance from the centerline of the hub, yes.
Use a spoke length calculator such as the one linked below to enter the info relevant to your hub, desired lacing pattern, and rim to find to figure out what you'll need. I'd suggest using a few different calculators to make sure everything adds up correctly.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm
You'll need to find specs (or measure) the ERD (effective rim diameter) of the rim you have as well the diameter of each flange and its distance from the center of the hub. And obviously the number of spokes and lacing pattern. This info should be available from the manufacturer of the rim and hub. If you're relacing to an existing hub and you're not sure of the model, you'll need to carefully measure. Details on this can be found on Sheldon's site.
Again, good luck!
Use a spoke length calculator such as the one linked below to enter the info relevant to your hub, desired lacing pattern, and rim to find to figure out what you'll need. I'd suggest using a few different calculators to make sure everything adds up correctly.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm
You'll need to find specs (or measure) the ERD (effective rim diameter) of the rim you have as well the diameter of each flange and its distance from the center of the hub. And obviously the number of spokes and lacing pattern. This info should be available from the manufacturer of the rim and hub. If you're relacing to an existing hub and you're not sure of the model, you'll need to carefully measure. Details on this can be found on Sheldon's site.
Again, good luck!
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Do a triple crow's foot, that's a good starting place for beginner wheelbuilders.