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  1. #1
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    skidding with a big ol crank...

    Let me start off by saying I have a front brake on my fixie and I absolutely know the issues involved with skidding (both on the bike and rider), but I do feel like I should know how to skid as another emergency method.

    having said that, I know what I am supposed to do with really getting up forward over the bars and pushing down on the back foot and unweighting the front end, but with my setup I just can't skid. As far as I know it is tougher with a larger crank/cog ratio but is there something that could make my life a tad easier?

    I appreciate any input. Thanks guys,
    J

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    Senior Member Pooptet's Avatar
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    I thought the Emergency Method would be the front brake
    Beware of my pickles.....
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    Senior Member Corwings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pooptet View Post
    I thought the Emergency Method would be the front brake
    I thought that was pulling out?

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    Senior Member chenghiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mashedpaters View Post
    Let me start off by saying I have a front brake on my fixie and I absolutely know the issues involved with skidding (both on the bike and rider), but I do feel like I should know how to skid as another emergency method.

    having said that, I know what I am supposed to do with really getting up forward over the bars and pushing down on the back foot and unweighting the front end, but with my setup I just can't skid. As far as I know it is tougher with a larger crank/cog ratio but is there something that could make my life a tad easier?

    I appreciate any input. Thanks guys,
    J
    I had a lot of trouble skidding with 46/16 but when I went to 46/18 it was a lot easier. I am also a weakling, but that should give you an idea. What's your ratio? Also if you're skidding by taking your weight off the rear wheel that just means you're making it easier for the rear tire to lose traction, which also means it won't slow you down as quickly. Either way skidding is not the fastest way to stop. Front brake is the fastest, and if you don't have a brake, skip-stopping is supposed to be the best way to stop. I can't do it yet so I can't personally attest to that.

  5. #5
    pjb
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    Do you have foot-retention? Clips? Straps?

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    Senior Member Capocaccia's Avatar
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    Stop being a puss. Lean forward, lock legs, proceed to faceplant.

    But for real, weigh distribution is everything if you need to skid. Get your knees and your body close to the headset and lock those legs. If you cant do it then you just arent strong enough for your ratio.
    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
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  7. #7
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    I have toe clips and the ratio is 52/16
    thanks for the tips and I know that the front brake is faster, more efficient, safer etc but I've had brake cables rip

  8. #8
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    I can skid my bike at 40/17 but when I rode a bike that was setup 52/15 and could never get the wheel to lock up. Your gearing is simply too high. If you've never skidded before, you'll never learn with that ratio. And you'll probably kill your knees trying.

  9. #9
    Fueled by Tigers Blood avner's Avatar
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    AH!!! That Gear Ratio is hella high. I couldn't skid a 48/15 but I can kinda skid my 48/17. Learn to Skip stop. Lean forward a bit, and then bump you rear up and lock your legs.
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  10. #10
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    thats kind of what I figured. Thanks guys.
    I actually have thought a little bit about getting a smaller crank as I really don't ride as fast as the bike is set up...
    aside from already knowing what is on the bike (sugino crank of some sort), is there are good way to figure out what type of bottom bracket I have so I can figure out if I want to get a new crankset?
    Last edited by mashedpaters; 10-08-10 at 04:14 PM.

  11. #11
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    You don't need to go forward over the bars to skid. What you do need is a lot of leg power. It is very possible to skid while hovering over the seat, or even while seated. I can skid while seated and it actually makes skidding a lot more useful when you dont have to move all the way to the front. Also it saves your nads.

    And Also just because you have a big crank doesnt mean you can't skid. It isn't even about ratio. Again, legs. I run 49x16 and skid fine when I want to.

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    I unfortunately don't have the leg strength to get the back wheel to lock with that ratio. And chances are better of buying a new crank than gaining the leg strength so I might get a new crank in time, but I do appreciate the info.
    Any tips as to how to check to see what size (103cm?) bottom bracket I'm running?
    thanks

  13. #13
    Senior Member macnab's Avatar
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    Suggestion: practice on dirt/trails.

  14. #14
    Senior Member polobreaka's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mashedpaters View Post
    I unfortunately don't have the leg strength to get the back wheel to lock with that ratio. And chances are better of buying a new crank than gaining the leg strength so I might get a new crank in time, but I do appreciate the info.
    Any tips as to how to check to see what size (103cm?) bottom bracket I'm running?
    thanks
    you dont need new cranks. just play with gear ratios by changing out the cog or chainring.

  15. #15
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    practicing on dirt is a good idea I'll try that thanks.
    And my crankset is older so you can't swap out chainrings so I could get a different cog, but I feel like 52/18 is still really challenging.
    edit: I just saw that I can get an origin 8 19T or 20T cog for like $25. Would I need a new lockring?
    Sorry for the noobness.
    Last edited by mashedpaters; 10-08-10 at 06:10 PM.

  16. #16
    i smell bacon yummygooey's Avatar
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    For $25 I would suggest the Eighth Inch cogs on eBay for $24.50 shipped over the Origin8 cogs. No, you don't need a new lockring.

    I couldn't skid on 46/15, but I can skid on 46/17. The key to learning how to skid is to commit. No hesitation!

  17. #17
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    Hesitation isn't my issue as of now, I purely don't have the leg power but I definitely appreciate the tips.
    As for the cog, I'd be better off with 1/8" rather than 3/32"? And it will just thread on where the original cog is?
    Thanks again

  18. #18
    i smell bacon yummygooey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mashedpaters View Post
    Hesitation isn't my issue as of now, I purely don't have the leg power but I definitely appreciate the tips.
    As for the cog, I'd be better off with 1/8" rather than 3/32"? And it will just thread on where the original cog is?
    Thanks again
    What kind of hubs do you have? Some have different threading. Eighth Inch is a brand, and their cogs are 1.37x24tpi. If you have a 3/32" chain and chainring, just stick with a 3/32" cog.

  19. #19
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    i'm pretty noob at this stuff myself, but a tip that also worked for me (i'm riding 48/16) is practicing on grass... timing seems to have as much to do with it as positioning...

    good luck!

  20. #20
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    the hub is made by joytech, I don't know the exact model, but it is flip flop if that helps. Any way better than measuring the width of the cog/chain?
    and tofoot thanks for the tip, I'm going to head out to a dirt path but 52/16 is pretty intense.

  21. #21
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    I hung out with my neighbor who is pretty good on a fixie and he skidded on my bike pretty easily so I took my bike out to a dirt trail at the beach where I live and I was able to skid it on dirt so I'll probably just run the ratio I'm at now rather than buying a new cog.

  22. #22
    dsh
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    Skidding is so 2007 anyway. Don't bother.

  23. #23
    Senior Member bike manhattan's Avatar
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    48/16 i can skid for days. although i don't anymore, totally 2006. gonna grab a 17t cog soon too.
    Left NYC and moved back to Philly, now i am stuck with an ironic user name

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