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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

The Everything Bike

Old 10-27-10, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by caloso
Even better, buy a set of SKS fenders and a second set of quick releases for the rear fender. Viz:

Good suggestion...I had no idea they even made fenders like that! Do you have a link to the specific product and more pics of the fenders on your bike?
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Old 10-27-10, 01:09 PM
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Thanks. Here's a picture of the whole bike.




Yes, here's a link to the fenders themselves. They come with a quick release for the front fender for safety. And here's a link for parts. If you get a second set of quick releases, it should be no problem to pop them off.

My bike (89 Trek 660) doesn't have any fender bosses, but that's solved easily enough with p-clips.

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Old 10-27-10, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by caloso
Thanks. Here's a picture of the whole bike.

Yes, here's a link to the fenders themselves. They come with a quick release for the front fender for safety. And here's a link for parts. If you get a second set of quick releases, it should be no problem to pop them off.

My bike (89 Trek 660) doesn't have any fender bosses, but that's solved easily enough with p-clips.
Very helpful post, and a nice bike to boot! Looks like I have a ton more bikes to choose from now that there's a way to mount full fenders without eyelets.
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Old 10-27-10, 02:31 PM
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lugged dropouts. win.
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Old 10-27-10, 03:06 PM
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I have a Pake C'mute paired with a Surly Long Haul Trucker fork. It's really great.



My only complaint is that somehow the seattube bottle bosses are a little off axis, so I'll just put a Pedro's tool there or something.
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Old 10-27-10, 03:36 PM
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maybe it's to aid in getting a bottle out to the side? or honest mistake, but i can see why someone would want their bottle ever so slightly to one side.
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Old 10-27-10, 03:42 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by caloso
Thanks. Here's a picture of the whole bike.


Yes, here's a link to the fenders themselves. They come with a quick release for the front fender for safety. And here's a link for parts. If you get a second set of quick releases, it should be no problem to pop them off.

My bike (89 Trek 660) doesn't have any fender bosses, but that's solved easily enough with p-clips.

You could also do something like this but use a longer bolt that starts from the inside and a wingnut on the outside. If you need to take the fender off to remove the wheel just unscrew the wingnut
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Old 10-27-10, 03:49 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by WoundedKnee
I have a Pake C'mute paired with a Surly Long Haul Trucker fork. It's really great.



My only complaint is that somehow the seattube bottle bosses are a little off axis, so I'll just put a Pedro's tool there or something.
I nearly bought a C'mute last winter. I'm glad you like it.
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Old 10-27-10, 04:25 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by djpfine
Very helpful post, and a nice bike to boot! Looks like I have a ton more bikes to choose from now that there's a way to mount full fenders without eyelets.
Keep in mind that not all frames leave clearance for fenders, so while it is possible to mount fenders without eyelets, that does not mean you will be able to fit the fenders between the tires and the frame/fork. Many frames will work with fenders, but only with the narrowest of tires. Its better to have lots of tire choices. Also, don't assume that just because a bike has fender eyelets there is actually clearance for fenders. I've seen numerous bikes that have fender eyelets on the frame and fork, but barely any clearance for fenders. Before you buy the frame, be sure it will work with fenders and the tire size of your choice.

Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.

Last edited by mihlbach; 10-27-10 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 10-27-10, 04:57 PM
  #35  
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Fess up. Who clicked every single link above?
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Old 10-27-10, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mihlbach
Keep in mind that not all frames leave clearance for fenders, so while it is possible to mount fenders without eyelets, that does not mean you will be able to fit the fenders between the tires and the frame/fork. Many frames will work with fenders, but only with the narrowest of tires. Its better to have lots of tire choices. Also, don't assume that just because a bike has fender eyelets there is actually clearance for fenders. I've seen numerous bikes that have fender eyelets on the frame and fork, but barely any clearance for fenders. Before you buy the frame, be sure it will work with fenders and the tire size of your choice.

Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.
These are good points. And points out some of the drawbacks of my bike. The 660 is more of a crit bike and I have toe-lap issues. In the summer it's really not much of a problem, but I have knocked the fender off with my toe in the winter (hence the quick releases of the SKS fenders). And the biggest tire I can use with fenders is 25 mm. (28mm without)
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Old 10-27-10, 06:51 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by mihlbach
Keep in mind that not all frames leave clearance for fenders, so while it is possible to mount fenders without eyelets, that does not mean you will be able to fit the fenders between the tires and the frame/fork. Many frames will work with fenders, but only with the narrowest of tires. Its better to have lots of tire choices. Also, don't assume that just because a bike has fender eyelets there is actually clearance for fenders. I've seen numerous bikes that have fender eyelets on the frame and fork, but barely any clearance for fenders. Before you buy the frame, be sure it will work with fenders and the tire size of your choice.

Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.
I have the same geometry gripe with the otherwise well spec'd BD bikes. The WT, WT5, and Uno all seem fairly well designed for commuting/utility, but the ridiculously tight geometries makes me think somebody just lifted them from the trendy track models because they couldn't be bothered to come up with more sensible numbers. I can't imagine riding them more than a couple of miles and/or remotely loaded down.

I'm not exactly clear on how toe overlap with fenders is supposed to yield an endo. If you're going fast enough to flip over the bars, how can you turn the bars far enough for it to matter?
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Old 10-27-10, 07:17 PM
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whatever man, vintage treks are sooooooo sexy.
I need to get some clips like that.
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Old 10-27-10, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by kyselad
I'm not exactly clear on how toe overlap with fenders is supposed to yield an endo. If you're going fast enough to flip over the bars, how can you turn the bars far enough for it to matter?
Having your front wheel lock up, even at 5-7 mph can be fairly dramatic if you aren't expecting it.
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Old 10-27-10, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by The LT
You could also do something like this but use a longer bolt that starts from the inside and a wingnut on the outside. If you need to take the fender off to remove the wheel just unscrew the wingnut
I've done that with coaster brake reaction arms. It works, but only if you use a thumbscrew-type bolt along with the wing nut.
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Old 10-27-10, 08:18 PM
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Surly Crosscheck (got 2 of them cuz it's so dern great)
Mercier WT

Both great bikes and got what you're looking for. I'm being biased though since I own them
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Old 10-27-10, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by mihlbach
Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.
The Kilo WT geometry is a carbon copy of the Surly Steamroller, so you can blame Surly for "bad design." I've had numerous bikes over the years which had toe to front fender overlap and have never managed to lock up the front wheel, nor can I quite imagine how this could happen. If you really care about massive clearance for large tires and fenders, then just get an old rigid frame MTB with 26" wheels.
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Old 10-27-10, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by djpfine
Very helpful post, and a nice bike to boot! Looks like I have a ton more bikes to choose from now that there's a way to mount full fenders without eyelets.

I suggested this in the very first post in this thread. Makes changing a tire with fenders on your track drops very easy.
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Old 10-27-10, 11:22 PM
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I have a Bianchi San Jose. Its set up as a singlespeed monstercross townie.

Sweet ride!
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Old 10-28-10, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by FKMTB07
I suggested this in the very first post in this thread. Makes changing a tire with fenders on your track drops very easy.
My ignorance prevented me from fully understanding your post until I saw pictures. It all makes sense now
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Old 10-29-10, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lz4005
I've done that with coaster brake reaction arms. It works, but only if you use a thumbscrew-type bolt along with the wing nut.
When I used this method I had another nut holding the bolt to the eyelet/pclamp so it wouldn't spin and then a wingnut on the very outside
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Old 11-01-10, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by The LT
When I used this method I had another nut holding the bolt to the eyelet/pclamp so it wouldn't spin and then a wingnut on the very outside
That's a good idea, if you have room for the extra nut.
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Old 11-01-10, 10:54 AM
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My LBS has a Masi Speciale Commuter on clearance for $630. It seems like a very versatile bike, with room for fenders and a horizontal drop out. Plus, despite not having canti-brakes, it's able to fit 32c tires. Are there any downsides to this bike that I'm missing?
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Old 11-01-10, 11:19 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by djpfine
My LBS has a Masi Speciale Commuter on clearance for $630. It seems like a very versatile bike, with room for fenders and a horizontal drop out. Plus, despite not having canti-brakes, it's able to fit 32c tires. Are there any downsides to this bike that I'm missing?
32 mm is decent but still potentially limiting depending on how/where you plan to ride. It's sometimes practical and/or insanely fun to ride 35 or 37 mm widths and up. But maybe it can go even higher than 32? Regardless, the bike is well thought out feature- and geometry-wise, and you can actually try it out at your LBS to see how you like it. fwiw, Google shopping turns up the 2010 model for ~$500 shipped, which may be worth mentioning to the lbs.
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Old 12-12-10, 11:42 PM
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this is probably too late.. but i have a bianchi san jose and i would recommend it for you. it comes with 32c tires, but definitely has room for bigger tires. i am using 25s though. it also comes with a single speed only rear wheel, however i upgraded to a fixed/free wheelset. there are bosses for two bottle cages, fender eyelets, front/rear rack mounts, canti brakes, and the geometry is somewhat relaxed. i'd say it's quite versatile.
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