The Everything Bike
#26
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#27
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Location: Sacramento, California, USA
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Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
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Thanks. Here's a picture of the whole bike.
Yes, here's a link to the fenders themselves. They come with a quick release for the front fender for safety. And here's a link for parts. If you get a second set of quick releases, it should be no problem to pop them off.
My bike (89 Trek 660) doesn't have any fender bosses, but that's solved easily enough with p-clips.
Yes, here's a link to the fenders themselves. They come with a quick release for the front fender for safety. And here's a link for parts. If you get a second set of quick releases, it should be no problem to pop them off.
My bike (89 Trek 660) doesn't have any fender bosses, but that's solved easily enough with p-clips.
#28
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Thanks. Here's a picture of the whole bike.
Yes, here's a link to the fenders themselves. They come with a quick release for the front fender for safety. And here's a link for parts. If you get a second set of quick releases, it should be no problem to pop them off.
My bike (89 Trek 660) doesn't have any fender bosses, but that's solved easily enough with p-clips.
Yes, here's a link to the fenders themselves. They come with a quick release for the front fender for safety. And here's a link for parts. If you get a second set of quick releases, it should be no problem to pop them off.
My bike (89 Trek 660) doesn't have any fender bosses, but that's solved easily enough with p-clips.
#30
Antarctica awaits
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I have a Pake C'mute paired with a Surly Long Haul Trucker fork. It's really great.
My only complaint is that somehow the seattube bottle bosses are a little off axis, so I'll just put a Pedro's tool there or something.
My only complaint is that somehow the seattube bottle bosses are a little off axis, so I'll just put a Pedro's tool there or something.
#31
Ths Hipstr Kills Masheenz
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maybe it's to aid in getting a bottle out to the side? or honest mistake, but i can see why someone would want their bottle ever so slightly to one side.
#32
spin
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Thanks. Here's a picture of the whole bike.
Yes, here's a link to the fenders themselves. They come with a quick release for the front fender for safety. And here's a link for parts. If you get a second set of quick releases, it should be no problem to pop them off.
My bike (89 Trek 660) doesn't have any fender bosses, but that's solved easily enough with p-clips.
Yes, here's a link to the fenders themselves. They come with a quick release for the front fender for safety. And here's a link for parts. If you get a second set of quick releases, it should be no problem to pop them off.
My bike (89 Trek 660) doesn't have any fender bosses, but that's solved easily enough with p-clips.
#33
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Location: Sacramento, California, USA
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Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
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I nearly bought a C'mute last winter. I'm glad you like it.
#34
Senior Member
Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.
Last edited by mihlbach; 10-27-10 at 04:35 PM.
#35
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https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
https://surlybikes.com/frames/cross_check_frame/
#36
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Location: Sacramento, California, USA
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Keep in mind that not all frames leave clearance for fenders, so while it is possible to mount fenders without eyelets, that does not mean you will be able to fit the fenders between the tires and the frame/fork. Many frames will work with fenders, but only with the narrowest of tires. Its better to have lots of tire choices. Also, don't assume that just because a bike has fender eyelets there is actually clearance for fenders. I've seen numerous bikes that have fender eyelets on the frame and fork, but barely any clearance for fenders. Before you buy the frame, be sure it will work with fenders and the tire size of your choice.
Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.
Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.
#37
extra bitter
Keep in mind that not all frames leave clearance for fenders, so while it is possible to mount fenders without eyelets, that does not mean you will be able to fit the fenders between the tires and the frame/fork. Many frames will work with fenders, but only with the narrowest of tires. Its better to have lots of tire choices. Also, don't assume that just because a bike has fender eyelets there is actually clearance for fenders. I've seen numerous bikes that have fender eyelets on the frame and fork, but barely any clearance for fenders. Before you buy the frame, be sure it will work with fenders and the tire size of your choice.
Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.
Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.
I'm not exactly clear on how toe overlap with fenders is supposed to yield an endo. If you're going fast enough to flip over the bars, how can you turn the bars far enough for it to matter?
#39
Senior Member
Having your front wheel lock up, even at 5-7 mph can be fairly dramatic if you aren't expecting it.
#40
coasterbrakelockup
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I've done that with coaster brake reaction arms. It works, but only if you use a thumbscrew-type bolt along with the wing nut.
#41
Utilitarian Boy
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Surly Crosscheck (got 2 of them cuz it's so dern great)
Mercier WT
Both great bikes and got what you're looking for. I'm being biased though since I own them
Mercier WT
Both great bikes and got what you're looking for. I'm being biased though since I own them
#42
Veteran Racer
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Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.
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Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 10-27-10 at 09:02 PM. Reason: added pics
#43
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I suggested this in the very first post in this thread. Makes changing a tire with fenders on your track drops very easy.
#45
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#46
spin
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#47
coasterbrakelockup
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#48
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My LBS has a Masi Speciale Commuter on clearance for $630. It seems like a very versatile bike, with room for fenders and a horizontal drop out. Plus, despite not having canti-brakes, it's able to fit 32c tires. Are there any downsides to this bike that I'm missing?
#49
extra bitter
32 mm is decent but still potentially limiting depending on how/where you plan to ride. It's sometimes practical and/or insanely fun to ride 35 or 37 mm widths and up. But maybe it can go even higher than 32? Regardless, the bike is well thought out feature- and geometry-wise, and you can actually try it out at your LBS to see how you like it. fwiw, Google shopping turns up the 2010 model for ~$500 shipped, which may be worth mentioning to the lbs.
#50
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this is probably too late.. but i have a bianchi san jose and i would recommend it for you. it comes with 32c tires, but definitely has room for bigger tires. i am using 25s though. it also comes with a single speed only rear wheel, however i upgraded to a fixed/free wheelset. there are bosses for two bottle cages, fender eyelets, front/rear rack mounts, canti brakes, and the geometry is somewhat relaxed. i'd say it's quite versatile.