This really deserves some better photographs man. Also, DRIVE SIDE.
damn, i thought my bike had a lot of steerer tube..!!
Yeah, you guys need some high rise stems.
no thanks....i'm content.
steerer tube cutting=permanent.
i know it's old man fred, but it's all good.
especially when my bike can kick other bikes asses.
My LBS owner guy says it's a bad idea to leave it too long, because if you hit something the leverage can really screw up your headtube. He also said it's not as big of a problem on road bikes.
Those look pretty knobby already.
I think it's good
riding bike is a lifestylehttp://www.free123.net/sig/27/smile.gif
I am not the company I keep.
what did you use to take those pictures, a .0025 MP camera with a wrinkled plastic bag over the lens?
Needs a banana seat, sissy bar, and ape hangers.
I feel like you bought the 50 when you really needed the 62...
I thought "dirt drop" esque bars were /supposed/ to be setup that way... level or higher than saddle
Looks real good, great for rides that have a bunch of road/path before the trail.
And, just so 'yalls know, that's pretty much how an off-road drop bar bike has to be set up. Due to the reach of road bike bars, you want a top tube of similar length to your road bike size, but since mountain bike top tubes are longer you have to use a pretty small frame. This often results in a smaller head tube, and coupled with the higher position for the drops (vs. a road setup) you end up with having to move the bars way up somehow. If you go with a bigger frame, you have too long a top tube. It's funny looking, but it works. You should see how silly my DeKerf looks in CX mode - but it fits!
Bikin' far-off places with the wife: http://peacocksride.wordpress.com
I'll try to respond to the comments. First, I apologize for the quality of the photos. I used a Panasonic Lumix with 5.0 Mega Pixils & 6x Zoom, and I struggled with attaching the photos to the thread (Any help or ideas would be appreciated). However I've attempted to provide a couple more photos.
Regarding the stem and spacers. The Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, like a lot of other frames, has a short headtube and integrated headset, so if you want to run drop bars, especially the On One Midge bars, at or slightly above the saddle, you need to either use a riser stem and a few spacers, or a minimal rise stem and many spacers ((On the WTF I used a six degree Syntace stem with 120 mm of spacers - about 4 1/2" - with a steel steerer tube there's no problem). With a threaded headset/steerer tube set-up, the choice would have been a Nitto Technomic or a mid-80's Salsa short reach/very high rise drop bar quill stem - one of which I have on a drop bar rigid 26" wheeled American Breezer frame). In 2011, Voodoo will be selling a threadless version of the old Salsa design, and I'll be one of the first in line to get one.
The frame size is a bit small if I had intended to just run 'cross size tires. But there will be times when I'll be using 2.1 - 2.25 29'r knobbies, which have a much larger diameter. So I went with a one size smaller frame so I would have decent tope tube clearance when using the big tires. Currently I'm running Schwalbe 700 x 35 Marathon Extremes.
Other notable build components are a square ti spindle bottom bracket with adjustable cups (It fits the WTF's EBB just fine) and Cook Brothers crankset with a 36 tooth ring and Salsa chain guard. I'm using MKS RX-1 pedals with Christophe toe clips & straps. The brakes are Avid road BB-7's w/140 mm rear & 160 mm front rotors, set up with a combination of Avid Full Metal Jacket and Yokozuma Reaction housing & cables, operated by Sachs carbon aero levers. I'm using my almost 30 year old Brooks Pro saddle (Big flat brass rivets model) and an old style American Classic seatpost. And, as I mentioned, On One Midge bars, a Syntace 99 stem and Cinelli tape. The wheelset has Sram hubs and WTB rims, with an 18 T Endless Bike aluminum cog and spacer kit.
I'm not crazy about the fork either - I'm partial to tapered, curved leg forks with traditional crowns - so who knows what I'll end up with. But for the time being the stock fork is relatively light, has lots of tire clearance, and is getting the job done.
The WTF frame is remarkably versatile and I really like the look of the continuous twin top tube/seat stay design. The frame is good quality butted steel tubing and the ride and geometry are proving to first rate. I like it!
I don't think you'll be able to find a traditional fork that is disc brake compatible.
Thanks for the comment. I haven't researched the possibilities, but I do know the following: Wound Up's Team X Disc will work if I don't care to use really large diameter 29'r tires (No bigger than 700x50 or so), and it's a spiffy fork with a bit of a neo traditional look (I have the road model on my ti road frame). Several of the builders at the recent Oregon Hand Made Bicycle Show said they could build me a curved, tapered tubes fork with disc mounts and any crown I wanted ($300 - $450) - if I did this I'd have it designed so that I could use a 140 mm rotor (Which the frame builders said would be easy because of the curved fork blades). On the other hand I have no problem running a canti brake on the front and the disc with 140mm rotor on the rear, which hopefully would allow for a decent selection of after market forks.
1. frame looks too small for you. i know it's supposed to be low tt and all, but it still looks too small.
2. that bike, if it fit, would be awesome for cruising/cross/commuting
3. i like the fork. it will start to look too retro with a custom fork, especially with the discs and that paint color. instead of dropping 3-5 bens on a fork, i'd convert it to belt drive.
now go race cross on it
As I mentiond in a previous response, one of the planned uses for the frame is as a drop bar, rigid, off road-MTB type bike and I'll be using a combination of SRAM Force and XO 2X10 drivetrain components and the biggest 29'r knobbies I can run (At least 700X53mm). The difference in diameter between a mounted 700x35 tire and a 700x53 (2.1) is 2 1/8 inches or 2.7 cm increase in top tube height (Half the diameter). This is more than the difference between my frame and the next larger one. So I decided to go with a bit smaller frame to allow for all the planned uses for the frame.
And, because, the drive side seat stay can be disconnected to allow for the installation of a belt, I might try that also. As I build the bike up different ways, I'll post updates.
As I mentioned in the beginning, and in response to those commenting about the long steerer tube/spacers/stem set-up on my Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, I've installed the Voodoo Nakisi Dirt Drop stem. It definitely cleaned up the front-end and allows for a spiffy looking saddle height for the Midge bars. The Nakisi stem was a bit tricky to install because of it's integrated adjuster cap (Measuring and cutting the steerer tube was not the usual "install the fork, slide on whatever spacers and the stem, mark the steerer where it protrudes, subtract 3 mm, and cut it off). But the design is really cool, it's steel, and it works great; and as I've said, it's a threadless version of Salsa's drop bar quill stem from the 80's.
Where might I ask did you get the Voodoo stem? I have been trying to find one of those.
I just did a quick search online, BTI has them in stock but doesn't list the price. What's the retail on one?