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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 11-01-10, 07:13 PM   #1
cococard
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rear aerospoke slipping

Hey guys, a quick question....

I picked up a rear aerospoke and am encountering a problem...when I try to tighten the bolts the screws ride on the drop ins and pull the wheel forward making it very difficult to get correct tension, does anyone have any experiance with this?

I was thinking a chain tensioner, anyone have any ideas?
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Old 11-01-10, 07:17 PM   #2
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1. Hold wheel in one hand
2. Tighten bolt/nut with the other.
3. Repeat for other side.
4. Asplooooshhuuunn.


EDIT: HA, beat you to it.

Aww...you're right.

Last edited by Squirrelli; 11-01-10 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 11-01-10, 07:17 PM   #3
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Vix was close.

Tighten the non drive side first. Not all the way, but pretty snug. Then hold the wheel straight while you tighten the drive side. Crank it down and then go back and completely tighten the non drive side.

If you're still having trouble, stuff something between your seat tube and wheel while tightening it to prevent it from slipping. A tightly rolled up magazine or newspaper usually does the trick.
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Old 11-01-10, 07:25 PM   #4
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I finger tighten both sides first as tight as my fingers can do it, then I use one hand to pull back the wheel (tensioning the chain and keeping the wheel centered) while I tighten the drive side nut. Then I tighten the non-drive side nut.

Make sure you don't over tension your chain... or else it'll feel like someone duct taped some rocks to your rim.
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Old 11-01-10, 07:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
Vix was close.

Tighten the non drive side first. Not all the way, but pretty snug. Then hold the wheel straight while you tighten the drive side. Crank it down and then go back and completely tighten the non drive side.

If you're still having trouble, stuff something between your seat tube and wheel while tightening it to prevent it from slipping. A tightly rolled up magazine or newspaper usually does the trick.
this
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Old 11-01-10, 07:48 PM   #6
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Going out on a limb here... but worth asking

Do your nuts have a spinny washer part built into them? If not, you'll need use a washer - or get rear (10mm x 1mm thread) track nuts with the captive washers.

Without something between the nut and dropout, the axle will "walk" when you try to tighten it.
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Old 11-01-10, 07:56 PM   #7
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When your chain tension is set too tight, what will it feel like/how will you know? An LBS near me told me to tighten the non drive side most of the way then push on the wheel from that side so the drive side tension is pretty tight. Then bolt down the drive side, loosen the non-drive so that it aligns itself with the drive side and tighten that. It seems to work ok, but I've never heard of this method, and just worried I'm overtightening now. Anyone else use this method?
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Old 11-01-10, 07:57 PM   #8
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I believe Aerospokes use bolts instead of nuts.
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Old 11-01-10, 08:25 PM   #9
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I tension my chain so I can move it about 1/2" up or down with my finger.
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Old 11-01-10, 08:33 PM   #10
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I believe Aerospokes use bolts instead of nuts.
They do.
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Old 11-01-10, 09:38 PM   #11
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They do.
I fail.

However, washer theory still stands... if the bolts don't have any sort of washers, they will walk while tightening.
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Old 11-01-10, 10:10 PM   #12
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Yeah...the bolts should definitely also have washers.
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Old 11-02-10, 10:45 AM   #13
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I tension my chain so I can move it about 1/2" up or down with my finger.
get some mks chain tensioners, trust me on this one, i am EXTREMELY anal about by chain tension and the tensioners made my life much easier! also you should put some grease on the bolt threads and you should consider buying a cheap torque wrench, also makes things alot easier.
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Old 11-02-10, 10:48 AM   #14
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With the exception of grease, none of the above is actually necessary.
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Old 11-02-10, 11:02 AM   #15
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With the exception of grease, none of the above is actually necessary.
yea i guess not, dont listen to me im just a hipster and i dont know what i am talking about (sarcastic). they may not be necessary but they help make adjusting tension, wheel centering very easy, and if you put alot of force to the pedals when riding then they prevent the wheel from sliping forward.
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Old 11-02-10, 11:08 AM   #16
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yea i guess not, dont listen to me im just a hipster and i dont know what i am talking about (sarcastic). they may not be necessary but they help make adjusting tension, wheel centering very easy, and if you put alot of force to the pedals when riding then they prevent the wheel from sliping forward.
I agree on the tensioner. It may not be absolutely necessary, but it does make getting the same chain tension a breeze since it locks in one side already.
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Old 11-02-10, 12:25 PM   #17
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You probably need some fresh grip nuts. These are the nuts that contact the inside of the dropout that keep the wheel from moving when you tighten it. That's their only job.

If the wheel is used (or well used) then they are probably worn down. This is normal wear and tear. I had to replace the grip nuts on one of my Zipp wheels.
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Old 11-02-10, 12:40 PM   #18
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sounds like it's trying to kill you, I would get rid of it before its plan materializes.
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