vw02

So I'm in the market for a new lock, i don't care about price. I've read tons about this lock and know its been covered a lot. Im looking at the 4"x8" one. I don't really beleive in cables and im not carrying that big ass chain around.

I began reading reviews on amazon, and there's a lot of talk about the keys being of poor quality. There's more than a few stories of them breaking, sometimes getting stuck in the lock. There's also stories about the lock being finnicky, I'm not worried about that part.

I lock my bike around dinkytown, Mn and the campus. It stays inside at night. I'm just worried about the key breaking and having my bike stuck in some random place where i have to find a power saw and deal with all that hassle/bs.

So those with this lock, key issues? Other suggestions for locks? I read the article someone posted a little bit ago comparing all the big name locks, and it seems the NY one is the best.

Thanks!

hairnet

I'm willing to bet people that broke or jammed their keys were doing it wrong

Leukybear 

+1

I've been using the new non - barrel key's since krypto shifted to them and I haven't had any problems.

People ALWAYS forget that they have to lubricate the barrel of U locks every month with daily use with a light lubricant or WD - 40.

And that the key has to be inserted entirely into the barrel before turning.

dsh

Are you going to be locking in the same place (for classes etc) every day for extended periods of time?

It's not unheard-of to get a bigass chain and leave it at the bike rack, so you don't have to carry it back and forth every day. You can also carry a mini-U for shorter stops around town.

AEO

no you don't... one shot is good enough for a long time and that's after you leave it with the key hole open, pointing upwards, into the rain.

Leukybear 

Hold it, now I didn't specify the amount or way did I? I don't think so bub.

Anyways, I never spray directly into the barrel as it gets the lube everywhere especially with the new cans that tend to keep spraying for a little bit even after you release the sprayer. I just use my key and work it into the barrel with a few turns. This way works for me. If you don't think is a good way, deal with it.

yummygooey

Yes, just make sure the key is in all the way before you turn. I could see how a lot of people could have broken keys that way.

Do note that the 4x8" NY lock is also very heavy.

hamish5178

I had the mini NYC U-lock. It weighed almost 4.5 lbs. I sold it and bought a mini evo, the orange one, which comes in at around 2 lbs.

I would definitely NOT recommend a New-York Lock if you're going to carry it, especially a bigger one, they absolutely cannot be put in your belt, and the extra 4.5 lbs for the mini was too much to have banging around in my bag. I would much rather carry the mini evo and a cable/chain if I was paranoid than one huge boat-anchor that won't even lock around most things.

About keys breaking. If you insert the key ALL THE WAY it is very easy to turn. If you insert it halfway it may break. The people who broke their keys were definitely just being stupid. Like most things in life, if you have to force it, something's wrong.

vw02

That's what I was thinking.

I'll be carrying the lock in a backpack so size isn't too much of an issue, weight might be. A mini isn't really an option, most of the places I lock up, i need a little extra reach. Im not a fan of cables, too easy to cut. Or are they??? If I wanted to take a bike, I feel like a cable would be pretty simple to cut vs a heavy duty U-lock.

I also like the idea of the regular keys, since copies can be easily made. Right know i have one barrel key for my lock and im paranoid about losing it.

bhop

I've never oiled mine. Works the same as the day I got it. (daily for 2.5 years) I think your last line is all that really matters.

dsh

You should never use just a cable lock, but using a cable lock in addition to a u-lock is much more effective than the u-lock alone.

I find it hard to believe you're going places where a mini u-lock can't be used to lock up. That's weird.

hamish5178

OP:

The thing about cable+lock is that each requires a different tool to break, assuming you are using a cable lock and not just a cable through the u-lock. Use the U for the frame + rear wheel, and the cable for the frame + front.

hpmcardle

I have the chain. It's massive and it really sucks to carry. I'm pretty sure it's bulletproof, though, if that's what you're going for....

vw02

how the hell are you supposed to lock a rear/front wheel and the frame and put it around something w/ a lock that barely fits the rear wheel and seat tube? assuming not using a cable. maybe im off on my sizing judgment. right now my u-lock is 4"x10" and its definitely a little big. I figure 4"x8" will give me a few more options for places to lock up to than a 3.25"x6" idk....

edit: plus i have a mtb that would be much easier locking up w/ the bigger one....guess i answered my own question there

thanks for the quick replies!

dsh

Uh, you're not.

If you have track ends you can just lock the front and frame to a rack.
If you have vertical / horizontal dropouts you just lock the rear and frame (or rear inside the triangle, same thing) to a rack.

Like so:



If I was locking up for a few hours on a campus, I'd also invest in some locking skewers. They're cheap.

Top it all off with a cable.
Why? If you're dismissing cables out of hand, it's because you're foolish.
Cables are light and fit in small places. I wrap my cable lock around the flat kit and it fits in my hip bag easily, and it's a kinda bulky cable.
Thieves will cut a cable to steal a whole bike, but they're not gonna waste their time when all they get out of it is a front wheel (which are a dime a dozen for a bike thief).

vw02

word, thanks for the advice, i've been looking into some locking skewers

evilcryalotmore

I think i've hade mine for about 1 year now, And its pretty bomb shell.

I use a harbor freight boat lock for the other lock and 2 u ies for everything else

Carry the chain lock in my locker and on the go i bring one u lock and a big big snake lock.

from school leaving to a date or whatever i normally bring both uies and the chain but it gets pretty heavy, I think each lock is like 10 pounds. :|

AEO

it's easier to remove the front wheel and lock it together with the rear right at the seatstay bridge.
assuming you can find an object to lock it to of similar height.

locking up one wheel only at a campus is really asking for the other to get stolen and just because you use locking skewers, it doesn't mean you're 100% safe either. If the thief is professional enough, they'll just use a cone wrench and tighten up the cones to defeat locking skewers. Much better to lock both wheels up together. Of course, it's impractical unless it's a QR.

There are, however, hubs with no adjustable cones on the outside and require a 6mm hex to loosen. These are excellent with locking skewers, as there's no way to tighten the hub cones. They don't really have cones, since they're cartridge bearings, but you get the idea.

Now, if the bike is completely unattractive, including the parts on it, then it's very unlikely to get touched at all.

dev0415

people break the keys because they force turn the key...i have one...i'll admit sometimes its a lil difficult to turn it...but i just take the key out...and turn it back n forth til it budges...never with too much force...its a great lock...find one on ebay for like 40 bucks.

FastJake

Wow! Instead of blowing the money on a lock, I'd just spend it on a decent and ugly bike that weighs 4 lbs more than your "good" bike. Then stop worrying about it getting stolen.

dsh

Exactly.

So either you go with the QR and make things a huge pain in the ass for a little added security,
Or you go with locking skewers and sacrifice a tiny bit of security for the convenience of not having to remove your front wheel every time.

Either choice is viable, but frankly it's not worth the extra 500% lockup time to me. I'll stick with locking skewers.


...and it's entirely useless to say things like "If the thief is professional enough he'll just do this..."
Because if the thief is "professional enough" he can cut through your fugghedaboudit chain in a few minutes with an angle grinder anyway.
Everyone knows we're just talking deterrence here, and I'll say again what I said before:
A thief is not gonna waste his time ****ing with cone wrenches and specialized tools to get your front wheel out of a locking skewer, when there's a bike with QR's 10 feet away.

FeatherLight

Just wondering,
How hard is it to cut through a wheel?

NateRod

I've seen videos of people "bypassing" the sheldon locking method by hacksawing through a wheel...

but in reality it would probably be too much work (especially with deep profile rims), and and they'd also be damaging what is probably one of the most valuable parts of the bike, so I don't think any thief really considers it a worthwhile thing to do.

they just like to go for the easy swipe. Anything that can be removed with with a 15mm wrench or, at most, an allen key. Make sure that the wheels and saddle are secured to the frame, while also keeping it secured to a post or rack, and you'll be ok.

It also depends on how long you'll be away from the bike and if it'll be out of sight or not. Sometimes I just ride around with my small Kryptonite Evo. Other times I travel with that, plus a Krypto New York lock, plus a cable and tie up like this:



Only one robbery attempt so far, and they gave up when they realized it was going to be way too much work.

Leukybear 

What did they do?/ How did you know?

avner

I really like that rear wheel lockup method. I think I'm going to be buying a full sized, or mid sized U lock and start doing that. I also want a new cable for my seat, thats more easily flexed. Mind is an up hill battle to look around anything. Great example Nate!