finished off my build this morning, had enough leather left over from the velo orange elk hide bar wraps(new color cortado, they match the honey brooks much better in real life than the photos, we'll see how they weather.) to replace the zipties holding the brake cable and leather the toe clips.
still on the fence about the headtube badge, but it's actually growing on me.
Last edited by thedutchtouch; 07-26-11 at 03:59 PM.
Outside of my nuts being smashed from the b17, it felt good. I had to ride pretty cautiously because I think I have a cog on there that's not good for the PW lockrings, so I didn't get to do more than 2 miles on it, but I'm excited to throw a 17t on there with the fizik and try to keep up in traffic.
You know what's bunk about the stem/tire lineup? I went to get my rims taped, because my dog chewed through the ones scrod sent me. So I figure the usual guy there would charge me $5 labor and would also mount them. Was a different dude there, mounted the tires like that and then charged me $12 for the labor. I felt like an idiot, but there was like 5 ppl waiting behind me so my non confrontational self just did "okay face" and went home. Same place that LENGTHENED my soma chain when I went in to shorten it. Time for a new LBS!
yeah but I'm in the, if I have to drive to the shop for tape, I might as well pay someone $5 to do it (it's normally $5 for both taped and both mounted) because the owner there does that **** in like 5 minutes he does it so often. I know how mount a tire/tube, it was more of a laziness/convenience thing that backfired. Though I did know that new wire bead vittoria was going to be a ***** so I was kinda happy to not do it. I hate those things when they're brand new
I don't know whether I should've posted this in the "Today I" thread or start a new one, but I thought that as this post will be more of a request for recommendations or input based on the Leader frame, I'm just gonna put it here.
Okay, here it goes. This is going to be my first custom SS built, so I basically need some input from you guys on components. I picked these items mostly based on reviews over the web, and some of them are a hand-me-down items (or very very cheap deal from friends), as well as parts from my old bike. It started of as a cheap commuter bikes for riding in the city (nyc), but I must confess that it didn't end up as 'cheap' as I thought it would be. That is why I kind of need input about them. If they are indeed good, sweet, and no problem, that's great news! Otherwise, I can still return some items or resell them.
Parts that I have (and on its way) so far:
Frame: Leader 725 Mid 2011
Fork: Leader I05
Wheelset: Custom built (Paul High Flange Hub 32H front, same for rear w/ fixed-free, DT Swiss Competition spokes, EAI Cobra Rim - MSW)
Tire: Continental GP-4000 25mm
Crankset: SRAM Omnium GXP BB with 48t chainring
Freewheel: White Industries Eno 18t
Saddle: Fizik Aliante Gamma Kium rail
Seatpost: Thomson Elite 27.2 250mm
Brakeset: Tektro R538 47-57mm reach
Brake Levers: Cane Creek Cross Top 31.8
Handlebars: Cinelli Solida Magnum
Stem: Eleven-81 31.8
Pedals: MKS Sylvan
So, first concern is about the chainline. I just realized that Paul hub has 47mm on the free side, and the Omnium has 42mm. Will this be a problem or some spacer on the bb will do just fine?
Next one is about the headset. I have a used FSA ZS (or ZS3, I'm not sure), but I think it's missing the fork race and some rubber parts. Do you think if I bring it to a bike shop they can somehow figure it out? Or do you guys think it's better for me to just buy a new one? Which model?
I don't think you can move the chainring out too much on the Omniums because of the external BB. There are several other threads where people have issues with the crankarm spider hitting the chainstay and there didn't ever seem like much could be done about it. And the chainring itself is already mounted on the outside.
Weren't those issues found on older version of the 725 tho? I thought with the 2011 Mid, there are no more problem with cranksets such as Omnium? And also, can you please tell me why 'the chainring can not be moved out too much because of the external BB'? Is it because there won't be enough thread contact when I thread the cup into the frame?
The 2011 and Mid versions have no crankset clearance issues.
biru5's issue is that his freewheel will give a 47mm chainline in the back and his Omniums will be at 42ish. Because of the length of the GXP spindle, you can really only move the driveside cup out 1mm by using a thin spacer before you run into problems with the way the crank arm fits onto the spindle.
A chainline off by 5mm will most likely be a little sketchy.
Originally Posted by biru5
Next one is about the headset. I have a used FSA ZS (or ZS3, I'm not sure), but I think it's missing the fork race and some rubber parts. Do you think if I bring it to a bike shop they can somehow figure it out? Or do you guys think it's better for me to just buy a new one?
The ZS3 consists of (from the bottom up) the crown race, rubber/metal crown race seal, bottom bearing, bottom cup, top cup, top bearing, compression ring, top race & top cap. If you're missing any of those your LBS may be able to order the individual parts but if not, you'll need a new headset.
Thanks a lot for your input! So, I guess from your answer there are no ways to fix this, right? I'm a bit bummed for not reading all the specs & dimension of the Paul hub (especially the freewheel side) before buying it and have it custom built and all..oh well at least I'm learning something..
Now my question is would you look for other options in wheelset or crankset if you were me?
Actually the freewheel is the only part that is still on its way, and I haven't installed the wheel and the Omnium on the frame yet, so this chainline problem is still on paper. I'm just preparing for the worst. I will have a better measurement when the freewheel arrives. It's listed on Paul's spec that the chainline is 44mm on fixed and 47mm on free, but I just measured it (by ruler only in-between spokes, from center of hub to center of threading and it might be just me trying to 'discard' the problem), it looks like it's 44ish on the free side and 42ish on the fixed side. Hmmm...
Right, but what I'm saying is that you can most likely install the freewheel on the fixed side to put your chainline a few more mm inward. There's absolutely nothing wrong with installing a freewheel on the fixed side. Also, a chainline off by 1-3mm certainly won't kill you.