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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 03-07-11, 05:59 AM   #1
nullface
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Treat steel with olive oil

Well I have a Reynolds steel fork that has been sandblasted. I'm going for a rat look and have seen some people use olive oil to get a worn look without rust eating it all up.

Do any of you have experience with olive oil on raw steel, how well does it hold up etc.?
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Old 03-07-11, 07:01 AM   #2
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It seems like you'd need to reapply frequently to prevent rust from getting out of hand.
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Old 03-07-11, 07:17 AM   #3
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WD40 works better but prepare to be rubbing it down every other day.
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Old 03-07-11, 08:22 AM   #4
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linseed oil would work but it will take about a month to cure up depending on weather

you are really better off either getting it clear coated or if you want a really raw kind of industrial look get it industrial chrome plated unlike regular chrome its harder and dull compared to soft and shiny
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Old 03-07-11, 08:25 AM   #5
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Raw steel looks awesome but even with a claercoat, surface rust will still form eventually.
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Old 03-07-11, 09:00 AM   #6
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I never have a frame long enough for rust failure to be a concern
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Old 03-07-11, 09:42 AM   #7
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I was only talking about visible surface rust, not the kind that will cause death.
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Old 03-07-11, 10:04 AM   #8
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Raw steel looks awesome but even with a claercoat, surface rust will still form eventually.
...and that's why I call my bike Rusty
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Old 03-07-11, 10:21 AM   #9
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Gunsmiths have formerly protected steel by a process called "browning."

Browning involves twice-daily thorough wipe downs of raw steel with an oily, damp (oil and water) cloth.

Depending on the composition of the steel, with consistent wipe downs, the steel will eventuall become a stable grey or straw color and will have SOME resistance to corrosion (but will rust, nonetheless, with neglect).

Two gun oils, Eezox and Break Free CLP, give the best corrosion protection of any commercially available oils:

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

You can get them at Walmart.
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Old 03-07-11, 10:29 AM   #10
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Raw steel looks awesome but even with a claercoat, surface rust will still form eventually.
raw steel with some surface rust looks even better
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Old 03-07-11, 10:33 AM   #11
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http://www.getgibbs.com/index.php

Chopper guys use this on raw metal gas tanks, frames and fenders. Spendy tho.
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Old 03-07-11, 10:35 AM   #12
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Olive oil will spoil, and then your fork will smell like garbage.
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Old 03-07-11, 11:09 AM   #13
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I use wd40, but I am planning to get some Gibbs. Thw WD seems to be eating my rubber bits.
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Old 03-07-11, 11:19 AM   #14
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Olive oil will spoil, and then your fork will smell like garbage.
theft prevention?
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Old 03-07-11, 11:22 AM   #15
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I use wd40, but I am planning to get some Gibbs. Thw WD seems to be eating my rubber bits.
People who use WD40 for its intended purpose use it primarily as a solvent and moisture displacer.

WD40 dissolves rubber that has synthetic componenets; especially neoprene.
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Old 03-07-11, 11:28 AM   #16
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People who use WD40 for its intended purpose use it primarily as a solvent and moisture displacer.
Which is precisely what you'd be doing when applying it to raw steel - displacing moisture to prevent surface rust.
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Old 03-07-11, 11:47 AM   #17
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Which is precisely what you'd be doing when applying it to raw steel - displacing moisture to prevent surface rust.
Yes.

Mcnab wrote: "Thw WD seems to be eating my rubber bits."

WD40 dissolves rubber that has synthetic components.

If you wear neoprene gloves, which I sometimes do, the gloves will disolve if they come in contact with WD40.

Some types of rubber glove actually come with a warning that they'll disolve if exposed to WD40.

WD40 also removes price stickers and the associated glue.

Good stuff.

Displaces moisture, leaves a protective film, and disolves some glues and synthetic rubber.
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Old 03-07-11, 11:56 AM   #18
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if im understanding correct, the OP wants surface rust for a ratted out look.

i have a friend who has a rat 57 vw beetle with a 'rusty hood' he stripped the paint and sprayed the hood down with ammonia and bleach[i think im remembering that correct], let it dry out in the sun[the bright red surface rust appeared almost instantly] and then he spraybombed clear over top. 3 years later the hood shows no signs of structural issues and still looks awesome.
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Old 03-07-11, 12:27 PM   #19
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Well I have a Reynolds steel fork that has been sandblasted. I'm going for a rat look and have seen some people use olive oil to get a worn look without rust eating it all up.

Do any of you have experience with olive oil on raw steel, how well does it hold up etc.?
He want a "worn look without rust eating it all up."

The process of "browning" I described earlier will do this, but it requires consistent effort for two or three weeks.

Eezox, Break Free CLP and WD40 will protect the steel.

Maybe if you ignore it JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT it will get that worn look without rusting.

A bike mechanic at a local bike shop I respect has let his bare steel frame rust until it stops.

That works here in the high desert of Bend, Oregon, but it might not in a more humid environment.
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Old 03-07-11, 12:32 PM   #20
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...and sprayed the hood down with ammonia and bleach...
This combination will release chlorine gas which is nasty stuff and will not only oxidize steel but will maim or kill you if you breathe it in. Be very careful if you do this.
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Old 03-07-11, 12:33 PM   #21
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Gunsmiths have formerly protected steel by a process called "browning."

Browning involves twice-daily thorough wipe downs of raw steel with an oily, damp (oil and water) cloth.

Depending on the composition of the steel, with consistent wipe downs, the steel will eventuall become a stable grey or straw color and will have SOME resistance to corrosion (but will rust, nonetheless, with neglect).

Two gun oils, Eezox and Break Free CLP, give the best corrosion protection of any commercially available oils:

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

You can get them at Walmart.
Truth.

I would skip the Walmart part though.
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Old 03-07-11, 12:46 PM   #22
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WD40 works better but prepare to be rubbing it down every other day.
rub her downnn!
I have a Reynolds 531 fork with chromed ends. I removed all of the original rust and used a polishing compound afterwards. It looked great for about 3 days, until it rained. Dry your bike completely after each ride. I use a rag with wd40 to wipe down the forks about every 3 days. If your whole fork is "raw" be prepared for some rust spotting. Good luck? BTW Olive oil has a high H20 % your better off with wd40! Or clean motor oil!
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Old 03-07-11, 02:21 PM   #23
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This combination will release chlorine gas which is nasty stuff and will not only oxidize steel but will maim or kill you if you breathe it in. Be very careful if you do this.
o haha or something else maybe.

anyways, i also recommend eating crepes with ajax instead of powdered sugar.
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Old 03-07-11, 09:57 PM   #24
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Yes.

Mcnab wrote: "Thw WD seems to be eating my rubber bits."

WD40 dissolves rubber that has synthetic components.

If you wear neoprene gloves, which I sometimes do, the gloves will disolve if they come in contact with WD40.

Some types of rubber glove actually come with a warning that they'll disolve if exposed to WD40.

WD40 also removes price stickers and the associated glue.

Good stuff.

Displaces moisture, leaves a protective film, and disolves some glues and synthetic rubber.
Yeah I use it to displace the water on my moto when I come in from the rain. Some cable boots are suffering, but I'd rather have that than rust at this point.
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