Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-16-11, 07:58 PM   #1
EpicSchwinn
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
 
EpicSchwinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Spokane
Bikes: '88 Trek 2300 Composite, '11 Dawes Deadeye
Posts: 2,247
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Cog break in period or am I doing something wrong?

So, I got a new tark cog today and had my LBS put it on for me (i don't have a chain whip or lock ring tool). They told me that I should come in in a few days and have them give the lock ring another crank. This is a reputable shop and the tech is experienced with fixed gear bikes. Is a cog/lock ring always expected to have a settling period or are we doing something wrong?

Whenever I've put on a cog myself or had the LBS put it on I eventually get some slippage in a week or two. In another thread this was treated like a result of poor setup. Is it really, or do the rest of you get this break in period?

unrelated
EpicSchwinn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 08:11 PM   #2
PlattsVegas
Senior Member
 
PlattsVegas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate, NY
Bikes:
Posts: 331
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I can't say I have ever heard of that. I would think that you would be able to get the cog sufficiently tight the first time. I have only tightened my cog once, when I initially installed it, and it has not come loose at all. This all being said, my fixed gear experience is limited (>1 year), so I may just be ignorant.
PlattsVegas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 08:11 PM   #3
guitarmankyle
かわいいサイクリスト
 
guitarmankyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Gabriel, CA
Bikes: Eighth Inch Scrambler v3
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
bestway to tighten a cog/lockring is the rotafix method(im sure someone here has the link to it) after you rotafix your cog on, tighten your lockring and you should be set for quite a while
guitarmankyle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 08:13 PM   #4
hailandkill
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Jersey City/NYC
Bikes:
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
yeah i'm not an expert or anything

but i've changed cogs and lockrings many, many times, and the only time i've ever had slippage of the cog was when the cog itself wasn't deep enough for the hub, so the lockring wasn't able to touch it.

other then that, with the proper cog/lockring, never had slippage.

seems like they/you aren't tightening something properly.
hailandkill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 08:19 PM   #5
jdgesus 
sɹɐʇsɟoןןnɟsʇıbɟɯo
 
jdgesus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: seattle, too many links
Bikes: fixed gear recumbent trike
Posts: 3,990
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
yeah, it happens. depending how strong/big you are and how strong/big the LBS person is that put on the cog.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by yummygooey View Post
crabon/campy/rapha/roadie-bro.

next step is recumbent.




my bikes | bike blog | beer blog | work 1 | work 2
jdgesus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 08:49 PM   #6
EpicSchwinn
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
 
EpicSchwinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Spokane
Bikes: '88 Trek 2300 Composite, '11 Dawes Deadeye
Posts: 2,247
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks for the input.
I did rotafix one of the times that it slipped, but I didn't have a proper lockring tool so I think that's where I went wrong there.
The other time it was installed by a guy that probably didn't have as much fg experience (they aren't that popular where I'm from)
Anyway, I'll see how it goes this time. I saw the guy tighten it this time and it looked like he got a good do on it.
EpicSchwinn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 09:08 PM   #7
FastJake
Constant tinkerer
 
FastJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Bikes:
Posts: 7,574
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If the cog slips it wasn't installed properly. If it slips when pedaling it wasn't tightened enough and now the lockring won't be tight which is a great way to strip the threads on your hub going back and forth between tight and loose. If it slips when you're doing an amazing 1000 foot skid the lockring wasn't tightened enough. Both of these are completely avoidable. I'd suggest learning how to do it yourself, especially if your shop is doing it wrong.
FastJake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 09:08 PM   #8
johnthecyclist
Junior Member
 
johnthecyclist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: South Florida
Bikes:
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I've been riding fixed gear bikes for years, and I've never had a cog slip that was tightened properly (using a chain whip). I put a good amount of grease on the threads, too, to keep them from seizing.
johnthecyclist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 09:40 PM   #9
yummygooey
i smell bacon
 
yummygooey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Bikes: Geekhouse Deerfield, GT Edge Ti, Spooky Skeletor, TET Track, Ritchey P-650b, Bridgestone MB-3
Posts: 5,607
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

I use the Rotafix method. Then I ride up the biggest hill I can find. Then I crank down on the lockring as tight as I can.

As for lockrings, get yourself a nice steel one. Scrod's got $10 lockrings in his shop. I personally use a Dura Ace lockring, which you can find on eBay for $11 and some change. I've never actually had an issue with an alloy lockring, but because it is such a highly stressed component in street riding, it's not a part I feel comfortable skimping material/weight on.
yummygooey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 10:04 PM   #10
NikZak
Bike Hoarder
 
NikZak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Bikes: 80's Graecross Courier Fixie, 2010 Bauer Suburban, 1988 Thruster 300 Volt BMX
Posts: 156
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
i also suggest checking your lockring before every ride, or at least once a week, just in case

you're better off 'wasting' 2 mins to check it before you leave than risking damage to your rear hub or worse yet, yourself
NikZak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 11:32 PM   #11
vandalarchitect
Vandalized since 2002
 
vandalarchitect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pullman, WA
Bikes:
Posts: 600
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by yummygooey View Post
http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

I use the Rotafix method. Then I ride up the biggest hill I can find. Then I crank down on the lockring as tight as I can.

As for lockrings, get yourself a nice steel one. Scrod's got $10 lockrings in his shop. I personally use a Dura Ace lockring, which you can find on eBay for $11 and some change. I've never actually had an issue with an alloy lockring, but because it is such a highly stressed component in street riding, it's not a part I feel comfortable skimping material/weight on.
I don't trust the Rotafix method as described with ...
Quote:
The lock ring is now unnecessary.
Always use a lockring! If there is any break-in period it is because it wasn't tightened properly to begin with. Grease the threads tighten with whip, ride a hill, rotafix it, whatever. Then lock it in with a lockring tightened properly.
vandalarchitect is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-11, 11:50 PM   #12
rustybrown
Senior Member
 
rustybrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: DeSouf
Bikes:
Posts: 2,147
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by EpicSchwinn View Post
the tech is experienced with fixed gear bikes.
No. He's not.

Last edited by rustybrown; 03-16-11 at 11:50 PM. Reason: urrors
rustybrown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 12:20 AM   #13
yummygooey
i smell bacon
 
yummygooey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Bikes: Geekhouse Deerfield, GT Edge Ti, Spooky Skeletor, TET Track, Ritchey P-650b, Bridgestone MB-3
Posts: 5,607
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by vandalarchitect View Post
I don't trust the Rotafix method as described with ...

Always use a lockring! If there is any break-in period it is because it wasn't tightened properly to begin with. Grease the threads tighten with whip, ride a hill, rotafix it, whatever. Then lock it in with a lockring tightened properly.
I wouldn't ride on the street without a lockring either. That sounds like an accident waiting to happen.
yummygooey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 12:22 AM   #14
bleedingapple
Senior Member
 
bleedingapple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Cross Check, GT Outpost, Haro Z16, Trek 1000
Posts: 698
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
as i said in another thread,the only time i have had a slippage issue was when the threads on the hub were not machined properly. I love the rotofix method and then tighten down the lockring. I need to be careful as I can strip the lockring threads if im not careful while installing it... it also helps to have quality machined parts, NJS all the way! LOL! really though the cog and lockring are the only NJS parts that will EVER touch my bike...
bleedingapple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 12:36 AM   #15
cc700
Ths Hipstr Kills Masheenz
 
cc700's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: seattle
Bikes: tirove
Posts: 8,551
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
this is what i hate about inexperienced car modifiers jumping ship to fixed gear.

engines have 'break in periods' bikes don't. bikes just have 'poorly installed cogs'
cc700 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 12:42 AM   #16
ScottRock
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NYC
Bikes:
Posts: 189
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
OP, sorry if i missed this but are you rocking a suicide hub?
ScottRock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 12:51 AM   #17
EpicSchwinn
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
 
EpicSchwinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Spokane
Bikes: '88 Trek 2300 Composite, '11 Dawes Deadeye
Posts: 2,247
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottRock View Post
OP, sorry if i missed this but are you rocking a suicide hub?
Nope, regular fixed gear hub (left and right threads). The rotafixing was just to get the cog really tight - I'm not going without a lockring like the rotafix site implies you can.
EpicSchwinn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 12:58 AM   #18
ScottRock
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NYC
Bikes:
Posts: 189
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Huh. Well, keep us posted, i guess. I rotafix with a lockring and have had no problems so far. Also i don't use a "proper" lockring tool, i filed down a pair of channel locks (like this) and they work great. Just me though.
ScottRock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 03:39 AM   #19
vandalarchitect
Vandalized since 2002
 
vandalarchitect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pullman, WA
Bikes:
Posts: 600
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottRock View Post
Huh. Well, keep us posted, i guess. I rotafix with a lockring and have had no problems so far. Also i don't use a "proper" lockring tool, i filed down a pair of channel locks (like this) and they work great. Just me though.
I'd consider that proper enough. Flathead screwdriver and a hammer ... not cool
vandalarchitect is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 06:50 AM   #20
Scrodzilla
There goes Tokyo
 
Scrodzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Bikes: EAI Bare Knuckle, 1975 Raleigh Pro Track
Posts: 26,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 79 Post(s)
I've never had a cog slip - and I've also never used the rotafix method.
__________________
__________________________________
Scrodzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 07:42 AM   #21
vw addict
Senior Member
 
vw addict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: East coast
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac Expert, Cannondale R700, Specialized Langster, Iron Horse Hollowpoint Team, Schwinn Homegrown
Posts: 2,673
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
this reminds me, I never thightened my cog/lockring. Hasn't failed me after 4 years, and if the hub is stripped than oh well.
vw addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 09:20 AM   #22
yummygooey
i smell bacon
 
yummygooey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Bikes: Geekhouse Deerfield, GT Edge Ti, Spooky Skeletor, TET Track, Ritchey P-650b, Bridgestone MB-3
Posts: 5,607
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
I've never had a cog slip - and I've also never used the rotafix method.
You're also a big dude and can put out a lot more force on a chainwhip and lockring tool. There have been multiple times where I just could not put out enough torque to get a lockring/cog off and had to resort to using a pipe extension or Rotafix to get a larger lever arm.
yummygooey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 09:30 AM   #23
HandsomeRyan
Pants are for suckaz
 
HandsomeRyan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Mt. Airy, MD
Bikes: Hardtail MTB, Fixed gear, and Commuter bike
Posts: 2,578
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by EpicSchwinn View Post
...i don't have a chain whip or lock ring tool...
I'd look into buying these tools. They aren't terribly expensive and they can allow you to work on your own bike(s).

As others have said- if it's put on right the first time you shouldn't have to go back for re-tightening.
HandsomeRyan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 09:50 AM   #24
jessesv
u________u
 
jessesv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: baltimore
Bikes:
Posts: 138
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HandsomeRyan View Post
I'd look into buying these tools. They aren't terribly expensive and they can allow you to work on your own bike(s).

As others have said- if it's put on right the first time you shouldn't have to go back for re-tightening.
+1

here's my 2 cents:

- buy a chainwhip and lockring tool
- grease your threads well
- install your cog tight and then your lockring tight
- go climb a hill
- at the top, check and re-tighten your lockring if necessary

i've always done this and have never had any issues and have never really had to retighten the lockring or cog.

if you do it right the first time, you should be good to go, but you should always double check with a new cog/lockring install.
jessesv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-11, 09:51 AM   #25
Scrodzilla
There goes Tokyo
 
Scrodzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Bikes: EAI Bare Knuckle, 1975 Raleigh Pro Track
Posts: 26,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 79 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by yummygooey View Post
You're also a big dude and can put out a lot more force on a chainwhip and lockring tool.
True.
__________________
__________________________________
Scrodzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:55 PM.