The New Mercier Kilo TT Pictures Thread (2011 & 2012)
07-26-13, 12:28 PM
#2377
rue the whirl
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07-26-13, 12:52 PM
#2379
Your cog is slipping.
ThickSlicks suck for everything except being heavy and slow.
Get a Vittoria Randonneur.
Get a Vittoria Randonneur.
07-26-13, 01:14 PM
#2381
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Michelin Krylion Carbon's are the fastest tough tire.
I am spoiled by the rubber on my geared bike...Schwalbe Ultremo's. Not flatproof but almost as fast as tubulars. I live in the burbs so my roads are clean and I can get away with running race tires on training rides. They are stupid expensive but ride so nice I don't want to take them off.
07-26-13, 01:19 PM
#2382
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Thanks Scrod for the suggestion. Gonna look into it and probably end up ordering it from your site. I live in NYC and the roads are rough so I'll need tough tires.
As for the "ride your bike" statement, obviously i'm gonna ride my bike but who doesn't upgrade their bike, especially for performances that make the riding smoother. I would like to enjoy riding comfortably and since I'm gonna be skidding, I think i'm at right here by asking for tire skidding suggestions. I don't understand why people must voice their negative opinions if it doesn't contribute.
As for the "ride your bike" statement, obviously i'm gonna ride my bike but who doesn't upgrade their bike, especially for performances that make the riding smoother. I would like to enjoy riding comfortably and since I'm gonna be skidding, I think i'm at right here by asking for tire skidding suggestions. I don't understand why people must voice their negative opinions if it doesn't contribute.
07-26-13, 01:33 PM
#2383
Your cog is slipping.
Michelin Krylion Carbon may be a long-lasting tire but I wouldn't use one for skidding, which is what SourSkiddles was actually talking about.
07-26-13, 01:37 PM
#2384
rue the whirl
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07-26-13, 01:46 PM
#2385
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Thickslicks and those Vittoria are about the same price. A lighter, faster, thicker, and more durable tire for me to stop and skid is what i want. Gonna do some research into those tires unless some of you guys have more tire suggestions.
07-26-13, 01:57 PM
#2386
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I am spoiled by the rubber on my geared bike...Schwalbe Ultremo's. Not flatproof but almost as fast as tubulars. I live in the burbs so my roads are clean and I can get away with running race tires on training rides. They are stupid expensive but ride so nice I don't want to take them off.
As for the "ride your bike" statement, obviously i'm gonna ride my bike but who doesn't upgrade their bike, especially for performances that make the riding smoother. I would like to enjoy riding comfortably and since I'm gonna be skidding, I think i'm at right here by asking for tire skidding suggestions. I don't understand why people must voice their negative opinions if it doesn't contribute.
And if you're just going to skid the crap out of your tires, why not wear through the ones that are already on it first while you do research for other better options in the meantime.
In reality, your best bet would be to learn your gear ratios and which option will give you the most skid spots to prolong tire life while also providing a comfortable cadence. A tire with 19 skid patches is going to last much longer than one with 4 no matter what brand or quality it is.
07-26-13, 02:04 PM
#2387
Your cog is slipping.
In reality, your best bet would be to learn your gear ratios and which option will give you the most skid spots to prolong tire life while also providing a comfortable cadence. A tire with 19 skid patches is going to last much longer than one with 4 no matter what brand or quality it is.
07-26-13, 02:17 PM
#2388
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People are telling you to ride your bike because you're planning upgrades and you don't even know what you need yet, you're just looking at things on the internet that look cool and think you need them. I would hardly say origin-8 crap is an upgrade.
And if you're just going to skid the crap out of your tires, why not wear through the ones that are already on it first while you do research for other better options in the meantime.
In reality, your best bet would be to learn your gear ratios and which option will give you the most skid spots to prolong tire life while also providing a comfortable cadence. A tire with 19 skid patches is going to last much longer than one with 4 no matter what brand or quality it is.
And if you're just going to skid the crap out of your tires, why not wear through the ones that are already on it first while you do research for other better options in the meantime.
In reality, your best bet would be to learn your gear ratios and which option will give you the most skid spots to prolong tire life while also providing a comfortable cadence. A tire with 19 skid patches is going to last much longer than one with 4 no matter what brand or quality it is.
well reason being that I'm asking for suggestions is because I've also mentioned that 2 of my friends ride Kilos and I rode theirs as well. The seat is crap, the paddles are pretty bad, I don't really like track bars. Hence the reason why I'm asking what's a good brand for bullhorns and saddles. Both my friends had their tires pop from skidding in just 8-10 days of riding. My kilo is being deliver today and I'm planning to skid the **** out of it as soon as it is assembled. If i look up and order tires within these few days, I would have the new tires by the time my tires are shot to **** in a week or so. Seems like I'm timing this right though, no?
07-26-13, 02:27 PM
#2389
Your cog is slipping.
07-26-13, 02:30 PM
#2390
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well reason being that I'm asking for suggestions is because I've also mentioned that 2 of my friends ride Kilos and I rode theirs as well. The seat is crap, the paddles are pretty bad, I don't really like track bars. Hence the reason why I'm asking what's a good brand for bullhorns and saddles. Both my friends had their tires pop from skidding in just 8-10 days of riding. My kilo is being deliver today and I'm planning to skid the **** out of it as soon as it is assembled. If i look up and order tires within these few days, I would have the new tires by the time my tires are shot to **** in a week or so. Seems like I'm timing this right though, no?
07-26-13, 02:35 PM
#2391
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well reason being that I'm asking for suggestions is because I've also mentioned that 2 of my friends ride Kilos and I rode theirs as well. The seat is crap, the paddles are pretty bad, I don't really like track bars. Hence the reason why I'm asking what's a good brand for bullhorns and saddles. Both my friends had their tires pop from skidding in just 8-10 days of riding. My kilo is being deliver today and I'm planning to skid the **** out of it as soon as it is assembled. If i look up and order tires within these few days, I would have the new tires by the time my tires are shot to **** in a week or so. Seems like I'm timing this right though, no?
This is handy information:
If you make a habit of doing "skip stops" you will wear your rear tire out considerably faster than if you use your front brake. This problem is exacerbated by certain gear ratios, because you may tend to repeatedly skid on the same section of the tire.
Riders who plan to do a lot of skip stops should consider the ratio when selecting their chainring and rear sprocket. The mathematics of this is actually fairly simple:
Simplify the gear ratio to the smallest equivalent whole number ratio.
The denominator of the resulting fraction is the number of skid patches you will have on your rear tire.
Examples:
44/16 simplifies to 11/4, so there would be 4 skid patches.
45/15 simplifies to 3/1 so there would only be 1 skid patch.
42/15 simplifies to 14/5, so there would be 5 skid patches.
43/15 can't be further simplified, so there would be 15 skid patches.
This is based on the assumption that you always skid with the same foot forward.
If you are an ambidextrous skidder, and the simplified ratio has an even numerator or denominator, your number of skid patches will be the same.
If you are an ambidextrous skidder, and both the numerator and denominator are odd, the number of possible skid patches will be doubled.
Riders who plan to do a lot of skip stops should consider the ratio when selecting their chainring and rear sprocket. The mathematics of this is actually fairly simple:
Simplify the gear ratio to the smallest equivalent whole number ratio.
The denominator of the resulting fraction is the number of skid patches you will have on your rear tire.
Examples:
44/16 simplifies to 11/4, so there would be 4 skid patches.
45/15 simplifies to 3/1 so there would only be 1 skid patch.
42/15 simplifies to 14/5, so there would be 5 skid patches.
43/15 can't be further simplified, so there would be 15 skid patches.
This is based on the assumption that you always skid with the same foot forward.
If you are an ambidextrous skidder, and the simplified ratio has an even numerator or denominator, your number of skid patches will be the same.
If you are an ambidextrous skidder, and both the numerator and denominator are odd, the number of possible skid patches will be doubled.
07-29-13, 11:47 PM
#2392
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Thanks for all the advice and suggestion and info. Today was the first time i got to ride the hell out of my Kilo. It is completely stock. Few things, I definitely need a higher cog for slowing down, stopping, and skidding. I was able to skid and slow down on the 16t but it took effort. Got some Vittorio Randos coming this week. Hoping my fork can clear the 25c, what difference between is between a 23c and a 25c? Also, what is the cog size 1/8" or 3/32" on a 50cm Kilo? Would i need to get a new chain if i buy a 18t cog? or is 17t more ideal.
Anyways, here is my Kilo completely stock. Can't wait to make this thing more fun.
Anyways, here is my Kilo completely stock. Can't wait to make this thing more fun.
07-30-13, 12:07 AM
#2393
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Thanks for all the advice and suggestion and info. Today was the first time i got to ride the hell out of my Kilo. It is completely stock. Few things, I definitely need a higher cog for slowing down, stopping, and skidding. I was able to skid and slow down on the 16t but it took effort. Got some Vittorio Randos coming this week. Hoping my fork can clear the 25c, what difference between is between a 23c and a 25c? Also, what is the cog size 1/8" or 3/32" on a 50cm Kilo? Would i need to get a new chain if i buy a 18t cog? or is 17t more ideal.
Anyways, here is my Kilo completely stock. Can't wait to make this thing more fun.
Anyways, here is my Kilo completely stock. Can't wait to make this thing more fun.
Lower gear inches = more fun on a fixed gear IMO.
07-30-13, 01:39 AM
#2394
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The reason why I would want a 18t cog is for the lower gear so i can climb small hills as well as having a easier time slowing down, stopping, and skidding. But i don't want to sacrifice too much speed so I was thinking of a 17t cog. I loved how much quick i can gain speed in the 16t cog, its just harder to skid. Do you guys think i can fit a 17t cog and still keep the stock chain? If not, any chain company recommendations as well as sizes?
07-30-13, 01:45 AM
#2395
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You'll probably be able to use a 17t with the same chain as long as you have some room in the dropouts to move your wheel a little closer in. If not, you can get a good chain without spending too much. KMC 710 and 710-SL are both good options (pretty much the same, but SL is a bit lighter).
07-30-13, 08:05 AM
#2397
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07-30-13, 12:59 PM
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besides that. Is there any benefits from going from a 3/32 to a 1/8? So far I think i'm gonna go with a 17t or a 18t cog and seeing as how I'm probably gonna need a new chain, I just want to know if i should buy a 3/32 chain and cog or a 1/8 chain and cog