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  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    44/16 vs 46/17 fixed ratio question

    So I'm running 44/16 w a GI of 74.3

    Two friends are running 46/17 w a GI of 73.1

    Why is skidding more difficult w my bike. The frame geometry seems identical to theirs. Could the crank arm length be an issue?

    Was thinking of swapping out the rear cog for a 19t. Is this ok? Lowering my GI to 62.5.

    (FYI I've been a singlespeed commuter since I was in college. I now ride for fun and have started using the fixed side of my flipflop hub.)

  2. #2
    i'll probably break it 91MF's Avatar
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    bike. throw. #MFDCR

  3. #3
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    haha thanks unk.

    I tried to do SOME searching before i posted.

    I just don't understand why such a small difference in GI feels like a big difference. So a good ball park for GI is 69-72 I assume? Choosing which ever has a good amount of skid patches?

  4. #4
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Same pedal system? It's easier to skid if you crank up the pressure in your rear tire. The difference in gear inches is basically meaningless between your bike and your friends.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  5. #5
    Ths Hipstr Kills Masheenz cc700's Avatar
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    i like 46/17 tons, and that's in hilly ****ing seattle.

  6. #6
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    I dig the 46/17 ratio. Easy to skid. But the GI is so close to my 44/16 yet it's ridiculously harder to skid. Weird.

    As I've read the crank arm length doesn't matter.

    I ride in tropically hot weather. Bike pressure is up at 120psi so I'm sure it's not that.

    Is 44/19 too easy to stop? I'm about to order a new rear cog. 17/18/19 ? Any input.

  7. #7
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Crank length definitely matters. Longer cranks = more leverage, but might limit how fast you can spin.

    How do you like your current ratio when you're actually riding? That matters more than how easy it is to skid..
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  8. #8
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    The ride is fine I suppose. I don't have much to base it off of. I get up small hills fairly easily. Bigger hills require me to have a decent lead in.

    My main goal was to ride brakeless.

    I don't commute anymore. The bike is just for leisure. Tricks

  9. #9
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Royceg View Post
    I don't commute anymore. The bike is just for leisure. Tricks
    In that case, go as low as you want. 19 or 20T should do it.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  10. #10
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Being that you just started riding fixed i am gonna say that your ability to skid, or lack thereof is probably due to technique and not because you are running a marginally taller gear.

    Until you perfect your mad skidding skilz do keep running a brake and then... leave it there.

    You can read "Braking 101" after you study up on gearing.

    Your Uncle Sixty.

  11. #11
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    Skidding is all about technique. If you want to skid while still in the saddle then you're gonna need lower gear inches, but in general it's about technique.

    Just make sure you have good foot retention and remember to pull up on your other leg as you push down with your stronger one!

  12. #12
    Fueled by Tigers Blood avner's Avatar
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    tonight I learned how to skid without SPD clips
    Quote Originally Posted by Leukybear View Post
    Genius.
    Quote Originally Posted by xkillemallx16 View Post
    Save your dignity and go back to hopping curbs on your langster.
    Quote Originally Posted by jdgesus View Post
    only thing cars are good for is hitting me

  13. #13
    Senior Member docboyd's Avatar
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    i learned it without foot retention cause i'm dumb so now its nice and easy...it totally matters about technique more than anything else tho

  14. #14
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    Hey thanks guys for the advice. Much obliged. I will be running a break until I get comfy with the tech as suggested.

    I was just curious about the ratios bc 74.3 vs 73.1 didn't seem like much of a spread in terms of GI. Yet I can skid much easier on the 73.1.

    Anyhow I'll be picking up a 17t and a 19t to give it a go.

  15. #15
    Fueled by Tigers Blood avner's Avatar
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    i strongly suggest running a brake forever.

    Although those who do run brakeless have told me that 5+ years of riding fixed was the point they stopped using a brake.
    Quote Originally Posted by Leukybear View Post
    Genius.
    Quote Originally Posted by xkillemallx16 View Post
    Save your dignity and go back to hopping curbs on your langster.
    Quote Originally Posted by jdgesus View Post
    only thing cars are good for is hitting me

  16. #16
    Should be out Riding
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    Take into account the number of skid patches. I would suggest 17t or 19t rear cog, because they are going to maximize the number of skid patches for a 46t chain ring.

  17. #17
    Senior Member bike manhattan's Avatar
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    48/17 for life
    Left NYC and moved back to Philly, now i am stuck with an ironic user name

  18. #18
    GONE~
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    Quote Originally Posted by Royceg View Post
    Anyhow I'll be picking up a 17t and a 19t to give it a go.
    44/17 is a good ratio, so versatile.

    Or the 47/18, same gear inches, but looks bigger than 44/17. The teeth of both chainring and cog doesn't need to carry that much load on a smaller sized ratio.

  19. #19
    Senior Member martinus's Avatar
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    Are you saying you can tell/feel the difference of ~1 GI ?

    ... totally believable.

    .
    .
    .

    .
    .
    .


    Bend the knees, watch the trees ... 5 $ please .

  20. #20
    Senior Member docboyd's Avatar
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    just go 52/19 like me...you look awesome and have less chainwear but its just as easy as 46/17
    though i must say finding a 46 is much easier than a 52

  21. #21
    sɹɐʇsɟoןןnɟsʇıbɟɯo jdgesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squirrelli View Post
    44/17 is a good ratio, so versatile.

    Or the 47/18, same gear inches, but looks bigger than 44/17. The teeth of both chainring and cog doesn't need to carry that much load on a smaller sized ratio.

    one of my bikes is 49/19 and the other 44/17
    the 44/17 feels much more responsive even tho they are pretty much the same ratio.

    torque?!
    Quote Originally Posted by yummygooey View Post
    crabon/campy/rapha/roadie-bro.

    next step is recumbent.




    my bikes | bike blog | beer blog | work 1 | work 2

  22. #22
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    learning to skid on the lowest practical ratio is highly recommended. i learned and stuck w/ 42x16. approx 70gi if i recall. i ran many different gears. anything above 70gi requires holding torque and strength to skid and keep skidding. why ppl ride a bigger gear than 70gi is beyond me, especially brakeless.. super pointless... and a quick way to to T bone someone ... ppl who ride bigger gears are slow.. uphill, short downhills, flat, in traffic, off the line.. and take forever to stop.

    a lot of people neglect their rear tire.. if you're running a 28c rando or whatever... skidding is gonna be beyond tough, especially if you're learning. fat tires weigh more, grip better, and are usually a bit taller... which also ups your gear inches.

    get urself a nice 700x23. like a michelin pro3 race.. skids quite easily.. same w/ vitoria rubinos, and just about any high end tire w/ harder rubber down the center

    also... road geometry is actually easier to skid on than a track bike. to a degree.. being that a track bike's rear wheel sits further under you than a road/touring frame does... for instance, did u kno a schwinn stingway is a wheelie monster? doesn't look it, but it is...

    also... understand skidding is 90% technique, 10% strength. and majority of that strength comes from your front foot RESISTING the natural motion of the pedals. keyword.. resisting.. not PULLING UP... or PUSHING back w/ your rear foot. in short.. lock your ankles. and the rest will fall in place...

    hope this helps

    and whomever said crankarm length doesn't matter.. c'mon now... try turning a boat w/ a steering wheel the size of your car's. simple lever
    Last edited by eoLithic; 03-25-11 at 04:07 PM.

  23. #23
    Senior Member iBgearLess's Avatar
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    Keep your brake on!

  24. #24
    `````````````` CaptainCool's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdgesus View Post
    one of my bikes is 49/19 and the other 44/17
    the 44/17 feels much more responsive even tho they are pretty much the same ratio.

    torque?!
    Confirmation bias.

  25. #25
    i smell bacon yummygooey's Avatar
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    44x17 has been my favorite ratio so far. Sooooo smooth.
    // yummygooey

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