chain recommendation and tension question.
#1
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chain recommendation and tension question.
I'm thinking about replacing my KMC K410. Will going with a different chain affect the performance in any way? Do you guys have a recommendation?
Also, how do you know if your chain is too loose or too tight? I have track dropouts and I'm curious how to get the perfect tension.
Thanks.
Also, how do you know if your chain is too loose or too tight? I have track dropouts and I'm curious how to get the perfect tension.
Thanks.
#2
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You don't want any binding as the driveline rotates.
#3
Your cog is slipping.
K410 is frowned upon by a lot of people but I've never had an issue with them. For whatever reason, I had one that was loud as all hell but the one on my bike now is quiet.
As for tension, don't make the common mistake of pulling your wheel back as far as it can possibly go to have a super tight chain. "Proper" chain tension is arguable around here but I prefer a little slack. Your drivetrain will be quieter and parts won't wear out as quickly.
As for tension, don't make the common mistake of pulling your wheel back as far as it can possibly go to have a super tight chain. "Proper" chain tension is arguable around here but I prefer a little slack. Your drivetrain will be quieter and parts won't wear out as quickly.
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It's pretty hard to get your front chainring to be perfectly concentric. That results in your chain tightening and loosening a "skosh" as you pedal.
Ideal chain tension is the tightest that you can get that doesn't create any drag around the full circle when you turn the crank with your hand. If you have a freewheel you can test it by spinning your crank backwards repeatedly. If it stops in a different place every time, that's good.
Ideal chain tension is the tightest that you can get that doesn't create any drag around the full circle when you turn the crank with your hand. If you have a freewheel you can test it by spinning your crank backwards repeatedly. If it stops in a different place every time, that's good.
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I like my D.I.D., mainly because it is easy to break the chain. It uses a screw driver instead of a chain breaker. Also, I have had it for a few years and it is still going strong. Sheldon Brown on Chain Tension and fixed gears in general.
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K410 is frowned upon by a lot of people but I've never had an issue with them. For whatever reason, I had one that was loud as all hell but the one on my bike now is quiet.
As for tension, don't make the common mistake of pulling your wheel back as far as it can possibly go to have a super tight chain. "Proper" chain tension is arguable around here but I prefer a little slack. Your drivetrain will be quieter and parts won't wear out as quickly.
As for tension, don't make the common mistake of pulling your wheel back as far as it can possibly go to have a super tight chain. "Proper" chain tension is arguable around here but I prefer a little slack. Your drivetrain will be quieter and parts won't wear out as quickly.
OP, in re tension i adjust the chain just enough so that i do not get any play. Generally it's agreed that a little play is better than none, but i'm partial to a slightly tighter chain.
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K410s are known for "stretching", or wearing out, quickly (in a matter of months). They have poor corrosion resistance in my experience as well. On the plus side, they are cheap and easily replaceable.
I'm currently running an Izumi Eco. It's $8-10 more expensive than the K410, but it's a higher quality chain that lasts longer. The Wipperman Whitestar chain also has positive reviews and is in the $15-20 range as well.
I'm currently running an Izumi Eco. It's $8-10 more expensive than the K410, but it's a higher quality chain that lasts longer. The Wipperman Whitestar chain also has positive reviews and is in the $15-20 range as well.
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^ +1 My 410s never lasted long.I have a 710sl on one bike and it seems to hold up ok,all my other bikes have izumi or wippermann.